I have been thinking about buying these 2 ford truck.
Price tag on the 2 is $600

I want a truck that has the modern reliability and efficiency, with classic styling of the 1950's
My car trader/wrecker friend told me that he has something I may like, so I went and took a look.
He has 2- 1950'ish ford f1 (f-100?) that are rough, but straightish, and nearly rust free.

#1






#2






It'll almost take the 2 trucks to make 1 good roller.

The white truck has a better cab, bed, and frame.
The white driver door has a bullet hole on it right by the vent window, so the blue driver door will be used, and (obviously) the front clip.

I have never dealt with any of this old stuff before.

My plan would be for a fuel efficient reliable truck, One that I could take on a 300 mile cruise if I wanted too, not some 700hp blown V10.
Am I looking at the wrong truck body/year for that?
How reliable/long lasting is the old steering, brake, and suspension set up? worth keeping, or would something newer be the way to go? I mean, its already given 60 years of use...

Mustang II front suspension seems to be popular, but, is it really any better?
I dont really want to do much welding, that is something I cannot do myself, I would have to pay someone. Electrical and mechanical are my strong points.
Recent research has shown crown vics have a bolt in independent front suspension and cross member, this true?
If so - there is a junk yard right around the corner

What engine options do I have?
I know damn near anything will work, my first thought was a 96 ranger 4 cyl w/ a 5 speed.
Most I have talked to say just get a carbed 350. Which Im not against, but not really all for 14 MPG.

Thoughts / opinions?

As most things, cost is a concern.

I figure, after 1 decent truck is assembled, I could part out whatever is left to recoup some of my money.
Is that even feasible? Whats the market like for f1 body parts?

 

those are 2 different year trucks , you can't make one out of them .

 

Yeah I figured as much.
What year is which?

will the front end from one go on the other?
How interchangeable are they?

I'm new at this whole thing.

 

not sure the years .

 

From the grill, Blue looks like a 49.
Hood of white looks like a 49 too?







1949 rear window


1950:


They all look the same to me....

 

Heah there, first id like to welcome you to FTE this is a great site for what your thinking about doing, the folks are nice, very helpfull, and there are alot of people that know every thing there is to know about these old beauties. Personaly im in the progress of building my first truck. I started with no skills and no tools, but have picked up a little of both along the way, so ill let some of the more experienced folks tell you the particulers of your questions. Now for my personel opinion i think $600 for both trucks is a deal and building one is something you wont regret. But in my case it cost more than expected and has taken me over eight years now,mostly cause like i said i started with zip,but i wouldnt change a thing and would and might do it all over again. Good luck with your project if you choose to do it. Tomorrow there will be lots of people on the site and im sure plenty of folks will fill you in.

 

They're both 48-50 F-1's, and all body and chassis parts will interchange. No worries there. Yes, it does look like you've got enough stuff there to make one good truck with left over goodies to sell. There is a very good market for your left overs.

For engine and drivetrain, most anything will work. I don't think I would go so far as to install a 4 cylinder, but I can see where something more on the line of a 4.0 Ranger V-6 with either a 5 speed or OD automatic trans would provide adequate power and good economy. These trucks may weigh about the same as the Ranger, but the aerodynamics are more akin to pushing the side of a barn down the road. You're going to want that little bit of extra gitty-up.

If you want something that drives more like a modern vehicle, a suspension upgrade may be more to your liking. IMHO, and several others may have theirs, the MII-based setups are best. They're designed and engineered for your vehicle. They're easy to install and the kits come with all new everything, rotor to rotor, all the way down to the cotter pins. No junk yard scrounging or running to the store for that one thing you didn't get. And while the up front cost may give a little sticker shock, if you add up the cost of all the new pieces, you'll see the value. If you have to rebuild or replace any or all of the used, junkyard stuff you got trying to cobble together something not made for your truck, in the long run you will spend the same or more, and have more time invested as well. A company called Chassis Engineering even makes a bolt-in crossmember for you so you don't have to worry about the welding part. A couple of guys here have used it with good results. You can have it installed in a leisurely weekend. If dependability and reliability is your concern, a setup like that will take the worry out of it.

Good luck with your project. It looks like a fun one.

 

Thanks for the replys and input.

I noticed on someone truck, that the floor had to me modified (or, a tunnel added) to fit the shape of the newer engines. Will this be the case for me too?

If it matters - I do not plan on going with an automatic.

 

It depends on the drivetrain of your choice. If you're going with a smaller type engine and trans, you'll find plenty of room. It's when you start trying to shoehorn in a big block and giant transmission that you run into fitment issues.

 

You mean like a Y Block wouldn't fit?

What about a 302 or a 289?

Straight 6 maybe?

Chevy...?

 

Welcome to the forum. It appears that you're in a dry area so rust should not be a problem. They both look decent or above. I've seen folks start with much less and wind up with a nice vehicle. IMO, buy them now, don't let the word get out or they're both gone at that price. In my area they would bring that for scrap,

Y block, or small block Ford would fit.

 

A Y block will fit. A 289/302 fits very easily, especially with a C4 trans. Very compact combination. Clutch linkage gets tricky if going manual, since all the stock stuff won't work. It's a totally different design. A 300-6 is very long, and is very tight front to back. It's been done, but it's not fun. I'd pass on that deal, personally. A 200 or 250 might be doable.

 

Well, that is actually the friend price...

They were up in the Victorville area of southern california. Rust on these old vehicles isn't an issue. Its quite nice.

He is a big ford guy, he literally has for engines and parts of all types sitting around.



He just picked up this guy too:


If I go with a common engine from a 70's Ford, he has them everywhere, so thats one of the reasons Im thinking a ford drivetrain.
A quick google search for an engine mount kit came up with options for mostly 350's whats up with that?

I made some craigslist feeler ads to see how hard it would be to sell the unneeded parts:
Ford F1 Truck Bed
Flat Head Ford

Think the prices are ok?

 

If all you're finding is parts to install chev engines in your truck, you're looking in the wrong place. Before buying any mount kits, though, set your goals and make a plan for what you really want to do with your truck. If you decide an a suspension change, that'll take an entirely different mount setup than if you stay with the straight axle. Don't be in a hurry. And personally, I wouldn't sell off any body parts until you get closer to done. You may find yourself to be sorry later, and wish you hadn't. After you get things apart, you may discover you let go of the better pieces without realizing it now.

Oh, and that wrecker is awesome!!!

 

These old beasts use a 6v positive ground system correct?

Anyone ever convert them to a 12v negative ground? I
I think the positive ground is just silly.