My 4.6 won't idle i have replaced the (IAC) but still no idle
I have found that if i take the hose off of the IAC the truck
will idle however if you move the accelerator the truck will
shut down. I pulled two codes P0113 and P1507. this all
started suddenly I stoped at a store when i came back out
the truck would'nt run. If anyone has seen this befor i would
appreciate the help

 

Hi muff and welcome to FTE

The P0113 code is for the ECT (engine coolant temperature) or IAT (Intake Air Temperature). The P1507 is an IAC underspeed error.
I think that pulling the hose off the IAC is a clue. I'm wondering if the hose is plugged where it goes into the air intake or if you have a leak in the air intake between the throttle body and the air cleaner. When you remove the hose from the IAC you will have "unmetered" air getting into the engine. That means that you have air that the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor in the air cleaner housing isnt seeing. That could possibly make it stall when you move the accelerator. I would start by checking the air intake system from the air cleaner to the engine. Make sure the filter is clean and sealing tight to the housing. Make sure you dont have any restrictions or air leaks in the system. Also you might try cleaning the MAF and IAT wires. To see them just remove the air filter housing like if you were changing the filter. Look into the tube that goes to the engine and you'll see a rectangular shaped piece sticking down into the housing. In there are 2 fine wires that look sorta like light bulb filaments. Clean these by spraying them with some good carb cleaner or brake cleaner. They are pretty easily damaged so you dont want to go scraping them off or anything. Usually they clean up pretty well just by spraying them.
Let us know what you find and if we can try to help any more.

 

Thanks for the welcom and the advice
i found no restriction in the hose but i wil try cleaning
the MAF and IAT
thanks I'll let you know

 

I have a question. How do you get the codes you are talking about?

Thanks

 

Hi agmurf and welcome to FTE

To get the codes you have to have the system scanned.
Any Ford dealer or most other shops can do it. They hook up a small computer type thing to your truck to access the truck's PCM (Powertrain Control Module or computer) and then run Key On Engine Off and Key On Engine Running tests. If the truck's PCM has seen any sensor readings or output readings that fall outside of a normal range it sets a code that can be retrieved.

 

I had the same problem with my '98 5.4
I'm not sure if it's set up the same, but I had a bad vaccum line on the back side of the intake.

 

Good point Ratltraps_Fla ....that's another thing to check.

 

Hey guys thanks for all your help
I tried all your suggestions and every thing
I could come up with to
unfortunately I didn't figure it out and now
that I know I'm to out of shape to walk to work
I had the truck towed back to FORD
when I get it back I'll let you know what they found


Racerguy this is a great forum
I found it by accident (Glad I did)
I read your last two post
sounds like you've been in the business
for a while. Do you have your own shop
or do you work for a dealership

 

Thanks muff
I've worked at a dealership for 16 years now and worked at an independant shop for 7 before that.
I feel old
hehe

 

Hey racerguy maybe you can help me
as I said before I sent my truck back to the
dealership They got the truck in about 11:00 am
when I talked to them at 5:00 pm they still
had not found the problem Will they charge me by
the hour or is there a book rate on what ever it
turns out to be
I would appriciate your input thanks


By the way I did the math tell me what you think

dealership 16 yrs
private shop 7 yrs
started at age 10 yrs
--------------------------------
that makes you 33 yrs old

Not so bad huh

 

Exactly.......33 years old
That works for me

Normally they will charge whatever the flat rate manual says for the job but sometimes diagnosis can run more....depends on what sort of problems they run into.
In our shop we usually wont charge a ridiculous amount on a problem job...the shop will just eat some of it. It has to be fair to both the vehicle owner and the shop and the tech if he gets paid flat rate. You might want to talk to them and get an idea of cost and tell them whether or not you want to spend much more time on it.

 

Bad news the dealer told me today that
they had not found the trouble and they
would have to start charging me by the
hour $59. So I had to bring it back home
as I can'not afford to that price for someone
to guess at it until they get it right.I can do
that for free.The service writer told me the
tech spent a total of 13 hours on it but when
they gave me the bill it was only $59.
the invoice says (performed EEC test) and thats
it. Think he might be streching it just a bit.

So i'm back to square one
A note stapeled to the invoice says(line flags:NOS)
and (QCM inspection not complete) does this mean
any thing to any one? Just a shot in the dark. is it
posible that the timing jumped a tooth or two and the
EEC can only compensate enough to make the truck
idle? Again the truck starts out idling about 300 rpm
chugs along up to 600 rpm will idle at 600 about 30 second
then shoots up to 1400 rpm and drops instantly back to
300 rpm and starts all over again

Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks,Muff

 

yeh I fixed it

Would you believe after all that it was
that little chip on the back of the EEC
who ever had the truck before I got it
installed a chip from JET.
I started the truck. It's idling up and down
got under the hood and started shaking
all the wires. No change so I went looking
for the EEC I thougt maybe it had gotten
wet somehow. When I reached up in the
corner of the dash the truck started to idle normally.
I shut the truck off and pulled out the chip
the conector was coverd with a dry white
looking stuff that was hard as a rock.
I got a tooth brush and some alcohol brushed
the EEC and the chip clean pluged it back in and
it runs like new.

Thanks every one for your help.


Racerguy keep up the good work
I will continue to visit the forum
it's nice to see people who will try
to help someone they don't know

Thanks again, Muff

 

Thanks for letting us know what you found
An aftermarket chips sorta throws all normal diagnostics out the window. If people would tell us they had a chip we would know to maybe try removing it and then test again but of course no one ever admits to having a chip...or they didn't know like in your case. A chip can really make diagnosis hard as the scanner will show things that really dont make sense. Good to hear that your fix was easy after you finally figured it out