99 E350 Stalling
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
I think that the idea with the computer testing the IAC is that as the ECU provides it with varying duty cycles of power (and thus it manipulates the valves position) it reads the change in idle speed provided on earlier models by the variable reluctor ring/ hall effect - pickup coming from the distributor and in later models by the crankshaft position sensor or whatever it's called.....
Ya know-- the one that is part of the whole EDIS deal....
Sorry I'm a little shaky on the terminology here; I've never owned nor very much worked on an EDIS system.... All the vehicles that usually grace my yard are generally older than all that :-)
-------------------------------------
Maples, I've seen a simple homemade circuit used in order to hook up an OBD1 vehicle to a laptop via serial port or USB which was running a program called EFILive..... It decodes the data stream and will tell you what's what. I believe that it can also be used to reprogram the things too, but I don't know anything about that.
The circuit is a simple 2 transistor level converting circuit.... Basically, you have 12V on on side of the communication and 5V on the other I believe.
You don't need to be an electronics pro to hook this thing up is what I'm saying.......
EFI Live also has a neat feature that displays a virtual dashboard on your computer screen showing all the other stuff which I always wished was on my dash in the vehicle.... TPS position, Coolant and Air temp in degrees, position and operation of most actuators.... Fuel injector duty cycle ETC etc etc
I think I can point you towards a free copy of this program, or one similar if you're interested.
-----------------------------
As far as cleaning those valves goes, Yeah--- I hear what you're saying.... In my situation over the years I've often found that even as little as $10 savings made the difference between knowing whether I was going to eat that day, and I've had time with no money sometimes instead of the opposite. But to each his own---Cheers!
Ya know-- the one that is part of the whole EDIS deal....
Sorry I'm a little shaky on the terminology here; I've never owned nor very much worked on an EDIS system.... All the vehicles that usually grace my yard are generally older than all that :-)
-------------------------------------
Maples, I've seen a simple homemade circuit used in order to hook up an OBD1 vehicle to a laptop via serial port or USB which was running a program called EFILive..... It decodes the data stream and will tell you what's what. I believe that it can also be used to reprogram the things too, but I don't know anything about that.
The circuit is a simple 2 transistor level converting circuit.... Basically, you have 12V on on side of the communication and 5V on the other I believe.
You don't need to be an electronics pro to hook this thing up is what I'm saying.......
EFI Live also has a neat feature that displays a virtual dashboard on your computer screen showing all the other stuff which I always wished was on my dash in the vehicle.... TPS position, Coolant and Air temp in degrees, position and operation of most actuators.... Fuel injector duty cycle ETC etc etc
I think I can point you towards a free copy of this program, or one similar if you're interested.
-----------------------------
As far as cleaning those valves goes, Yeah--- I hear what you're saying.... In my situation over the years I've often found that even as little as $10 savings made the difference between knowing whether I was going to eat that day, and I've had time with no money sometimes instead of the opposite. But to each his own---Cheers!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
JWA, about that doc....
Does anyone know if there is a way to post files to this site?? I'd be happy to share of course; If need be I'll post it to a file storage site tomorrow.
The document is a technical manual for GT-40 5.0L engines for use in marine applications. However.... The information contained there applies to many other engines as well. I've found it to be INVALUABLE when working on my 1988 302 E250..... It's got the nice diagnostic trees for when you have an issue and don't know where to start, it's got wiring pinouts and specs for all the sensors and actuators in your engine....
Just yesterday I used its helpful info to test the TPS on my van.... It provided me with the pinout and theory to do it thusly; I went out to the van and disconnected the TPS's wiring connector, then provided it with 5V power and ground from an old cellphone charger that I cut the tip off of and stripped the wire down on to make a little 5V DC power supply. Then I measured across the specified points with my voltmeter while turning the throttle plate by hand and found the sensor to be working EXACTLY as it is supposed to.
This saves me from having to try replacing sensors/actuators which aren't the problem......
The document also contains info about which sensors/actuators will or will NOT store DTCs and what their failure modes are. And I believe that it has info about how to run the KOEO and KOER and dynamic response tests too.....
I'll post it to Rapidshare or something tomorrow if that's OK?? Unless someone knows how to post a .PDF to this site like as an attachment or something.
----------------------------------
I've thought about doing a quick series of "How to test: XXX" with pictures and explanation for a lot of the sensors and things like that, I find that often the Haynes/Chilton's manuals are very lacking in this department.
Things like knowing which pin to ground on the little test connector under then hood to see if your fuel pumps work etc.
Just a thought.....
------------------
Not trying to threadjack here, so I'm going to let it rest for tonight!
Take care!
Does anyone know if there is a way to post files to this site?? I'd be happy to share of course; If need be I'll post it to a file storage site tomorrow.
The document is a technical manual for GT-40 5.0L engines for use in marine applications. However.... The information contained there applies to many other engines as well. I've found it to be INVALUABLE when working on my 1988 302 E250..... It's got the nice diagnostic trees for when you have an issue and don't know where to start, it's got wiring pinouts and specs for all the sensors and actuators in your engine....
Just yesterday I used its helpful info to test the TPS on my van.... It provided me with the pinout and theory to do it thusly; I went out to the van and disconnected the TPS's wiring connector, then provided it with 5V power and ground from an old cellphone charger that I cut the tip off of and stripped the wire down on to make a little 5V DC power supply. Then I measured across the specified points with my voltmeter while turning the throttle plate by hand and found the sensor to be working EXACTLY as it is supposed to.
This saves me from having to try replacing sensors/actuators which aren't the problem......
The document also contains info about which sensors/actuators will or will NOT store DTCs and what their failure modes are. And I believe that it has info about how to run the KOEO and KOER and dynamic response tests too.....
I'll post it to Rapidshare or something tomorrow if that's OK?? Unless someone knows how to post a .PDF to this site like as an attachment or something.
----------------------------------
I've thought about doing a quick series of "How to test: XXX" with pictures and explanation for a lot of the sensors and things like that, I find that often the Haynes/Chilton's manuals are very lacking in this department.
Things like knowing which pin to ground on the little test connector under then hood to see if your fuel pumps work etc.
Just a thought.....
------------------
Not trying to threadjack here, so I'm going to let it rest for tonight!
Take care!
Last edited by dustmote; Nov 6, 2011 at 11:23 PM. Reason: spelling
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Hey Dusty----sorry taking so long replying---got involved elsewhere Sunday evening!
I'm sure there is a way to make that entire .pdf file part of your profile or garage here----not sure since I'm not familiar with all aspects of the site. Would it be too much of an imposition to directly email it to me? I'll send a PM with further details. We might also contact one of the Moderators or Super Moderators and get their advice----someone reading in might also know how to share this info.
I don't think you're high jacking this thread if only because what you're contributing is interesting, the fact you're actually doing something this detailed is helpful as well. Knowing there are sensors that don't store or throw DTC's is probably one fo the most helpful in fact.
Thanks for contributing and sharing your experiences----its how we grow in all things Ford Modular Motors!
I'm sure there is a way to make that entire .pdf file part of your profile or garage here----not sure since I'm not familiar with all aspects of the site. Would it be too much of an imposition to directly email it to me? I'll send a PM with further details. We might also contact one of the Moderators or Super Moderators and get their advice----someone reading in might also know how to share this info.
I don't think you're high jacking this thread if only because what you're contributing is interesting, the fact you're actually doing something this detailed is helpful as well. Knowing there are sensors that don't store or throw DTC's is probably one fo the most helpful in fact.
Thanks for contributing and sharing your experiences----its how we grow in all things Ford Modular Motors!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Here you go bud.....
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...PEkLdcjV2HMRbw
Like I said, its supposed to be for boats/marine applications but it still almost all applies to your truck/van as well.... Often times even if you don't have a 5.0L engine. Because the sensors etc were often the same.
Have fun!!!
Oh, and if that link doesn't work, then PM me your email and I'll send it right along....
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...PEkLdcjV2HMRbw
Like I said, its supposed to be for boats/marine applications but it still almost all applies to your truck/van as well.... Often times even if you don't have a 5.0L engine. Because the sensors etc were often the same.
Have fun!!!
Oh, and if that link doesn't work, then PM me your email and I'll send it right along....
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
What you're describing earlybroncnut sounds like the typical stuck open EGR valve..... Have you tried putting the pedal down while you attempt to restart the engine after it stalls??
Most of the time when stuck open EGR valve is the issue, the engine will easily enough start right up if you just open the throttle while cranking....
It could also be the IAC valve being stuck closed.... It's supposed to remain wide open while at speed or high RPMs/open throttle so that when you suddenly close the throttle the engine doesn't stall to due a lack of available air......
It basically gets choked out and can't breath....
If I were you, I would inspect your IAC valve as I have found them to be quickly and easily cleaned, at least on vehicles where they are easy to reach.... Never worked on a van like yours though, but generally it's not too bad.
A quick google video search will show you just the way.
-------------------
What's kinda weird is that either of these problems can cause the same symptoms (stalling during deceleration/closure of throttle, hard starting, then rough idle) by different means. The IAC stuck (partially)closed strangles the engine by not letting in enough air to let it keep running properly. The EGR stuck open lets in an excessive quantity of exhaust gasses, effectively diluting your Air/Fuel mixture and causing the engine to run funny or not at all.
In a pinch in the past, I've cut a little section out of a beer can and smoothed it out, cut it about to size and shape of the EGR valve gasket and then placed it in between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, thus blocking EGR flow. This will cause your engine to suddenly run great if the EGR valve is indeed the problem and you can't tell by simply looking at/feeling the valve.
The beer can will burn through in a few days time due to the high temperatures involved, but this trick has gotten me off the side of the road before. I've also heard that a couple nickels placed just right over the holes instead of the beer can is a more long term workaround. Just something to try if you're interested :-) ----- Although your emissions go through the roof and your combustion chamber temperatures go up dramatically under high RPMs and severe operating conditions. There's a handful of reasons to NOT disable your EGR like so many do, even if there isn't Emissions Inspections in your state.
I know that the earlier vans had a position sensor which would throw an error code if the EGR valve was stuck, but there was no similar method to detect an error with the mechanical operation of the IAC under normal running conditions (IE while not running in test mode)
I'm not sure if your model/year still had the vacuum actuated EGR with the position sensor or if they had gone electronic solenoid valve style by then Or.....??
Report back and we'll try and help figure this out....
Good luck
Most of the time when stuck open EGR valve is the issue, the engine will easily enough start right up if you just open the throttle while cranking....
It could also be the IAC valve being stuck closed.... It's supposed to remain wide open while at speed or high RPMs/open throttle so that when you suddenly close the throttle the engine doesn't stall to due a lack of available air......
It basically gets choked out and can't breath....
If I were you, I would inspect your IAC valve as I have found them to be quickly and easily cleaned, at least on vehicles where they are easy to reach.... Never worked on a van like yours though, but generally it's not too bad.
A quick google video search will show you just the way.
-------------------
What's kinda weird is that either of these problems can cause the same symptoms (stalling during deceleration/closure of throttle, hard starting, then rough idle) by different means. The IAC stuck (partially)closed strangles the engine by not letting in enough air to let it keep running properly. The EGR stuck open lets in an excessive quantity of exhaust gasses, effectively diluting your Air/Fuel mixture and causing the engine to run funny or not at all.
In a pinch in the past, I've cut a little section out of a beer can and smoothed it out, cut it about to size and shape of the EGR valve gasket and then placed it in between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, thus blocking EGR flow. This will cause your engine to suddenly run great if the EGR valve is indeed the problem and you can't tell by simply looking at/feeling the valve.
The beer can will burn through in a few days time due to the high temperatures involved, but this trick has gotten me off the side of the road before. I've also heard that a couple nickels placed just right over the holes instead of the beer can is a more long term workaround. Just something to try if you're interested :-) ----- Although your emissions go through the roof and your combustion chamber temperatures go up dramatically under high RPMs and severe operating conditions. There's a handful of reasons to NOT disable your EGR like so many do, even if there isn't Emissions Inspections in your state.
I know that the earlier vans had a position sensor which would throw an error code if the EGR valve was stuck, but there was no similar method to detect an error with the mechanical operation of the IAC under normal running conditions (IE while not running in test mode)
I'm not sure if your model/year still had the vacuum actuated EGR with the position sensor or if they had gone electronic solenoid valve style by then Or.....??
Report back and we'll try and help figure this out....
Good luck
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Dusty your link worked perfectly------thanks so much!
That's one healthy sized file-----I'll read through it perhaps later today if only for the overview. A quick check does indeed suggest it will be useful over all.
Thanks again!
That's one healthy sized file-----I'll read through it perhaps later today if only for the overview. A quick check does indeed suggest it will be useful over all.
Thanks again!
New User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
What you're describing earlybroncnut sounds like the typical stuck open EGR valve..... Have you tried putting the pedal down while you attempt to restart the engine after it stalls??
It will start up but its a rough idle and it won't let me put it into gear to get moving.
Most of the time when stuck open EGR valve is the issue, the engine will easily enough start right up if you just open the throttle while cranking....
I will try the pedal trick the next time it happens.
It could also be the IAC valve being stuck closed.... It's supposed to remain wide open while at speed or high RPMs/open throttle so that when you suddenly close the throttle the engine doesn't stall to due a lack of available air......
It basically gets choked out and can't breath....
If I were you, I would inspect your IAC valve as I have found them to be quickly and easily cleaned, at least on vehicles where they are easy to reach.... Never worked on a van like yours though, but generally it's not too bad.
I'll check into the IAC this weekend also.
A quick google video search will show you just the way.
-------------------
What's kinda weird is that either of these problems can cause the same symptoms (stalling during deceleration/closure of throttle, hard starting, then rough idle) by different means. The IAC stuck (partially)closed strangles the engine by not letting in enough air to let it keep running properly. The EGR stuck open lets in an excessive quantity of exhaust gasses, effectively diluting your Air/Fuel mixture and causing the engine to run funny or not at all.
In a pinch in the past, I've cut a little section out of a beer can and smoothed it out, cut it about to size and shape of the EGR valve gasket and then placed it in between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, thus blocking EGR flow. This will cause your engine to suddenly run great if the EGR valve is indeed the problem and you can't tell by simply looking at/feeling the valve.
The beer can will burn through in a few days time due to the high temperatures involved, but this trick has gotten me off the side of the road before. I've also heard that a couple nickels placed just right over the holes instead of the beer can is a more long term workaround. Just something to try if you're interested :-) ----- Although your emissions go through the roof and your combustion chamber temperatures go up dramatically under high RPMs and severe operating conditions. There's a handful of reasons to NOT disable your EGR like so many do, even if there isn't Emissions Inspections in your state.
I know that the earlier vans had a position sensor which would throw an error code if the EGR valve was stuck, but there was no similar method to detect an error with the mechanical operation of the IAC under normal running conditions (IE while not running in test mode)
I'm not sure if your model/year still had the vacuum actuated EGR with the position sensor or if they had gone electronic solenoid valve style by then Or.....??
Report back and we'll try and help figure this out....
Good luck
It will start up but its a rough idle and it won't let me put it into gear to get moving.
Most of the time when stuck open EGR valve is the issue, the engine will easily enough start right up if you just open the throttle while cranking....
I will try the pedal trick the next time it happens.
It could also be the IAC valve being stuck closed.... It's supposed to remain wide open while at speed or high RPMs/open throttle so that when you suddenly close the throttle the engine doesn't stall to due a lack of available air......
It basically gets choked out and can't breath....
If I were you, I would inspect your IAC valve as I have found them to be quickly and easily cleaned, at least on vehicles where they are easy to reach.... Never worked on a van like yours though, but generally it's not too bad.
I'll check into the IAC this weekend also.
A quick google video search will show you just the way.
-------------------
What's kinda weird is that either of these problems can cause the same symptoms (stalling during deceleration/closure of throttle, hard starting, then rough idle) by different means. The IAC stuck (partially)closed strangles the engine by not letting in enough air to let it keep running properly. The EGR stuck open lets in an excessive quantity of exhaust gasses, effectively diluting your Air/Fuel mixture and causing the engine to run funny or not at all.
In a pinch in the past, I've cut a little section out of a beer can and smoothed it out, cut it about to size and shape of the EGR valve gasket and then placed it in between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, thus blocking EGR flow. This will cause your engine to suddenly run great if the EGR valve is indeed the problem and you can't tell by simply looking at/feeling the valve.
The beer can will burn through in a few days time due to the high temperatures involved, but this trick has gotten me off the side of the road before. I've also heard that a couple nickels placed just right over the holes instead of the beer can is a more long term workaround. Just something to try if you're interested :-) ----- Although your emissions go through the roof and your combustion chamber temperatures go up dramatically under high RPMs and severe operating conditions. There's a handful of reasons to NOT disable your EGR like so many do, even if there isn't Emissions Inspections in your state.
I know that the earlier vans had a position sensor which would throw an error code if the EGR valve was stuck, but there was no similar method to detect an error with the mechanical operation of the IAC under normal running conditions (IE while not running in test mode)
I'm not sure if your model/year still had the vacuum actuated EGR with the position sensor or if they had gone electronic solenoid valve style by then Or.....??
Report back and we'll try and help figure this out....
Good luck
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
