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Payson, i went with grd to battery, + to glow plugs, ohming each atta time, then "C" to - and + to I for injector ohms, still hit 0.7 on each one, 1 atta time?
Gonna give anutha shot, at a different ohm setting...stay tuned.
Alright, 0.7 again, and set at different ohm, get .87 across ALL pins. i'd say, they're good, right?
Payson, i went with grd to battery, + to glow plugs, ohming each atta time, then "C" to - and + to I for injector ohms, still hit 0.7 on each one, 1 atta time?
Gonna give anutha shot, at a different ohm setting...stay tuned.
Alright, 0.7 again, and set at different ohm, get .87 across ALL pins. i'd say, they're good, right?
Getting exactly the same reading for every GP and injector just doesn't seem possibe.
Check the ohms value for injector solenoid and glow plug resistance on the outside of the valve cover connector to confirm continuity and condition of injector solenoids and glow plugs. You will need to pull the connectors off at each valve cover to gain access to the pins.
9 Pin UVCH Connector Pin Out
G
G
I
I
C
I
I
G
G
G=GP I=INJECTOR C=Injector Common
**The injectors fire with a 110 to 120 volt signal from the IDM. DO NOT pierce the wires to test ***
Ohm test between "I" and "C" for the injectors. Reading should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
Ohm test between "G" and "Battery Ground" for glow plugs. Reading should be between 0.6 ohms and 2.0 ohms.
If readings are not within these tolerances pull the valve cover to check for loose connectors or chaffed wiring on the under valve cover harness. If all connectors and wiring are good then any bad ohm reading means a bad injector solenoid or glow plug.
Makes it a heckofalot easier to ohm out, everything...i've done it 3-times now, sincethe first post, and still getting same reading
I figured as much from the thread title. The readings are wthin in specs. Just weird they are all exactly the same. Will your meter go out 3 decimal points. Even a difference in the thousandths of an ohm would would be easier to accept.
Try just ohming the pigtail itself. One lead on the end of the wire and the other in the plug. Make sure you're getting the same reading across all the wires that way and compare that reading to if you just hold the 2 leads on the meter touching each other.
Chris, from what you just said, it made me then realize, the #'s i'm getting. Off that hunch, i have on the table here, my multimeter, and those #'s are exactly the same #'s you get, when you touch the _/+ together, reading is 0.7?
That mean, somehow, the pigtail/device, is grounding out, possibly the other wires, being exposed, are giving the false ohm reading ,cuz there possibly touching each other, while try'n to ohm 1 wire atta time?..if that made any sense
what i'll do, is put butt-connectors on each lead, so none can ditort each others readings?
But connectors are a good idea. That's what I did on my pigtail. I also trimmed the glow plug wires a little shorter than the injector wires just to make the difference obvious at a glance.
Depending on your meter, and don't take this the wrong way, but do you have your leads in the correct location on the meter?
HAHAHAHAHAHA........LOL, J/K. Would you believe it, that i actually checked that, and for a second, thought IT WAS in the wrong spot (reading temp), but no dice, in the location its suposed to be.
Chris, good suggestion/idear..gonna do that....think the , kicking in, damn bank just pissed me off...beats get'n pissed on
possibly no, Payson, but i got bigger fish to fry right now, chief. Just rebuilt my spare turbo, and now gonna lift the other one out, and install this one.....(previous thread..wind thru a pipe sound).