AIH relay question
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 219
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AIH relay question
I just installed the gauges, pyro, trans temp, boost. I wasn't bad at all except I had one minor issue.
I bout them from riff raff and it came with the AIH delete plug, so I took the heater out but when I went to un-do the bolt for the heater positive wire (on the relay), the relay casing just crumbled apart. The positive post broke off and there is a hole in the relay now. Also, there was another little wire on the post along with the heater lead.
Is this a issue I should be concerned with? Can I completely take out the relay? Or should I just buy a new one and replace it.
It is a CA truck so there isn't a glow plug relay so theres no point of keeping it a s spare.
I bout them from riff raff and it came with the AIH delete plug, so I took the heater out but when I went to un-do the bolt for the heater positive wire (on the relay), the relay casing just crumbled apart. The positive post broke off and there is a hole in the relay now. Also, there was another little wire on the post along with the heater lead.
Is this a issue I should be concerned with? Can I completely take out the relay? Or should I just buy a new one and replace it.
It is a CA truck so there isn't a glow plug relay so theres no point of keeping it a s spare.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Get it out of there, it does nothing without the heater element. I don't know if there is a sensor to know when the relay coil is open, but I really doubt it.
Has anybody out there had issues with removing it?
Has anybody out there had issues with removing it?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
You will get a "soft" code (no SES light) from it's removal. The PCM can test the circuit during diagnostic tests, but no real issues in getting rid of it.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Since there will be a soft error code as Mueckster says, you can leave the broken one in there with all removable wires gone, then seal the holes.
OR... get heat shrink at your local hardware store and install that over the ends of your loose wires from removing the relay. Secure the sealed wires so they don't wander about. I don't know if it has a dedicated fuse (I can't find one yet) but you might pull that if you learn there is one.
OR... get heat shrink at your local hardware store and install that over the ends of your loose wires from removing the relay. Secure the sealed wires so they don't wander about. I don't know if it has a dedicated fuse (I can't find one yet) but you might pull that if you learn there is one.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
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New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
AIH Relay
I have a 2003 7.3L Powerstroke F350 4x4
My truck will not start at temps below zero even if it is plugged in. (I have a block heater on the oil pan; its one of those magnetic ones. My truck didn't come stock with a block heater)
I checked the GPR and it test good. I tested the all the glow plugs using OHm test all tested from .5 to 1.2.
My AIH relay is dead...would this keep the truck from starting below zero?
Is there a better location for the block heater?
I have standard Rotella 15-40 should I switch to something else?
When it gets above 10 degrees the truck starts fine...just takes 10-15 min to warm up before I have any power to get up and go.
My truck will not start at temps below zero even if it is plugged in. (I have a block heater on the oil pan; its one of those magnetic ones. My truck didn't come stock with a block heater)
I checked the GPR and it test good. I tested the all the glow plugs using OHm test all tested from .5 to 1.2.
My AIH relay is dead...would this keep the truck from starting below zero?
Is there a better location for the block heater?
I have standard Rotella 15-40 should I switch to something else?
When it gets above 10 degrees the truck starts fine...just takes 10-15 min to warm up before I have any power to get up and go.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 258
Likes: 5
From: NorCal
X2. You will fail visual inspection with no AIH. They might not notice the relay, but will definitely notice a missing AIH.
New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I have a 2003 7.3L Powerstroke F350 4x4
My truck will not start at temps below zero even if it is plugged in. (I have a block heater on the oil pan; its one of those magnetic ones. My truck didn't come stock with a block heater)
I checked the GPR and it test good. I tested the all the glow plugs using OHm test all tested from .5 to 1.2.
My AIH relay is dead...would this keep the truck from starting below zero?
Is there a better location for the block heater?
I have standard Rotella 15-40 should I switch to something else?
When it gets above 10 degrees the truck starts fine...just takes 10-15 min to warm up before I have any power to get up and go.
My truck will not start at temps below zero even if it is plugged in. (I have a block heater on the oil pan; its one of those magnetic ones. My truck didn't come stock with a block heater)
I checked the GPR and it test good. I tested the all the glow plugs using OHm test all tested from .5 to 1.2.
My AIH relay is dead...would this keep the truck from starting below zero?
Is there a better location for the block heater?
I have standard Rotella 15-40 should I switch to something else?
When it gets above 10 degrees the truck starts fine...just takes 10-15 min to warm up before I have any power to get up and go.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
I have a 2003 7.3L Powerstroke F350 4x4
My truck will not start at temps below zero even if it is plugged in. (I have a block heater on the oil pan; its one of those magnetic ones. My truck didn't come stock with a block heater)
I checked the GPR and it test good. I tested the all the glow plugs using OHm test all tested from .5 to 1.2.
My AIH relay is dead...would this keep the truck from starting below zero?
Is there a better location for the block heater?
I have standard Rotella 15-40 should I switch to something else?
When it gets above 10 degrees the truck starts fine...just takes 10-15 min to warm up before I have any power to get up and go.
My truck will not start at temps below zero even if it is plugged in. (I have a block heater on the oil pan; its one of those magnetic ones. My truck didn't come stock with a block heater)
I checked the GPR and it test good. I tested the all the glow plugs using OHm test all tested from .5 to 1.2.
My AIH relay is dead...would this keep the truck from starting below zero?
Is there a better location for the block heater?
I have standard Rotella 15-40 should I switch to something else?
When it gets above 10 degrees the truck starts fine...just takes 10-15 min to warm up before I have any power to get up and go.
The best location for the block heater is the stock one in the coolant.
Switching to 4w-40 syn oil will help.
Check voltage drop across your glowplug relay.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
AIH fake?
So I live in So. Cal also, and I've gotta hand over smog check fees to Sacramento politicians (gee, Curt... How do you really feel about that?). I was thinking of taking out the AIH, and with a little time using a Dremel cut off wheel, and some JB weld, making an AIH delete plug look like an unmolested AIH, complete with wiring that goes nowhere.
What I'm wondering is whether it will throw some code or check engine light that would make me fail the test? Whaddaya think?
Thanks,
Curt
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 258
Likes: 5
From: NorCal
Curt,
You can do that but you will get a soft code on federal trucks and a hard code on Cali trucks. You can fool the PCM by putting a 470 ohm ( I used 4 resistors. 2 in parallel in series with another 2 in parallel. Just in case. )resistor on the AIH relay. This will prevent the code.
I deleted my AIH for a boost sensor location, but plan on putting it back every 2 years to pass the test.
You can do that but you will get a soft code on federal trucks and a hard code on Cali trucks. You can fool the PCM by putting a 470 ohm ( I used 4 resistors. 2 in parallel in series with another 2 in parallel. Just in case. )resistor on the AIH relay. This will prevent the code.
I deleted my AIH for a boost sensor location, but plan on putting it back every 2 years to pass the test.