Hey guys I am looking for a front driveshaft for my truck. 1995 gas F350 E4OD auto. From what I have researched 1985.5-95 f350 shaft should work. Let me know what you have, price shipped or pickup if close to Fredericksburg VA

Truck has been lifted 10 inches and had a solid 60 swapped in. Previous owner didn’t modify crossmember so couldn’t reinstall front shaft due to clearance. Did not have the driveshaft when I purchased it . I am thinking I will need to have stock front shaft lengthened but not 100% sure. Any input you have on this would help, I'm sure someone has ran into this.
Thanks

 

with 10 inches of lift not only will you need a longer shaft but you'll probably need one with joints that can run at more of an angle. you may need to plunk down for a custom shaft. not sure, maybe the yokes have enough clearance.

you say the dana 60 was swapped in? was it a 2wd converted to 4wd? because in '95 a 4wd F350 should have a dana 60 from the factory.

 

You need to get a custom shaft made by a 4x4 shop that knows what they're doing or you will have some wicked vibration with those angles. Drivelines need to run within a set range of angles. If you're outside that range then you either live with the vibration or try to fix the angles.

 

burnout, thought the dana 60 was an option. Does not look factory. Has 30 spline outers, i need to do more homework though. I will take some pics.

I will probably get s stock driveshaft and see how the angle looks, then have it modified/lengthened, maybe clock transfer case...

 

For 10" of lift you are going to have to clock the t-case(also making a new crossmember) and most likely the axle too.

A E4OD is the longest driveshaft for a F350, but I would venture to say it will still need to be lengthened by about 6"

I would be leary of the missing drive shaft, like the axle has different gear ratio or the axle is junk

 

you can't simply clock the front axle, it'll screw with your steering geometry. you could cut the knuckles off and weld on knuckles with the center section rotated to give you a better angle. not something to try haphazardly. I've seen ads and products highlights for companies that can build a custom shaft with joints that will run to some pretty extreme angles. unless you have the knowledge and tools to build a custom axle or feel like plunking down some serious green to order a custom front end with a rotated pinion then a custom shaft is the way to go. you'll be able to have a factory shaft modified but by the time they get done lengthening and adding the new yokes/joints to work with those angles I'm not sure how much money you'll save. maybe that route will be worth your while, don't know never lifted a truck that high.

I'm almost positive that the D60 was standard on all 4x4 F350s. maybe some parts have been replaced, maybe the old axle was toast, maybe you have an F150/250 that has been converted and the PO put F350 badges on it. you'd have to run the VIN and that would narrow it down.

 

Pinion yolks and T-case yolk have to be on the same plane otherwise you will have vibrations no matter what fancy driveshaft you have.

I worked at a 4wd shop for enough years to know that.

In order to clock the axle correctly, the axle tubes come out of the center section, then pressed back in at the correct angle, then there is no unnecessary steering issues

 

Turning the C's on the front axle is not a job for the faint of heart, I will tell you that for sure.

 

is vibration in the FRONT driveshaft really that big an issue, since it's not engaged most of the time, to warrant going through the trouble of clocking the front axle?

 

I'm at 8" and I reversed my factory 250 driveshaft (skinny end up top) clears the crossmember without contact. Picked up the double knuckle 350 driveshaft and will be golden with it.

 

10" OF LIFT = BIG MONEY TO GET EVERY THING WORKING CORRECTLY !
forget about any stock length front drive shaft , IT WONT WORK AT ALL !
you are going to have to git one made from some one that knows exactly what they are doing ! and you may have to get the front pumpkin cut and rotated before one is made !
not to mention about the crossmember issue might have to be addressed before the shaft can be made ! IT WONT BE CHEAP TO HAVE ONE MADE , thats why you see a lot of trucks without one as they dont think about it till after they have the truck lifted to the sky !

 

I would say w 10" of lift, 44" tires will be used. If 44" tires are being used it will be most likely a serious off road truck or mud truck. In either case 4wd will be used MOST of the time. And I could live with vibrations, but vibrations wear thing out really FAST.

And I am a FIRM believer. Do it right, or dont do it at all

 

pulled the diff covers, running 4.89 open in rear and 4.88 open in the front. Vin confirms f350, axle code comes back 3.55 w/ limited slip in rear...guess not anymore. After further inspection looks like the crossmember has been cut and lowered about 3 inches. i will take some measurements from yoke to yoke.

 

Pics of truck and crossmember in my profile garage.. Tires are 36 x 15.50. was told lift was 10 inch but i see the hangers have another hole to get more lift. might be 8" ability to go to 10... hard to tell. Just picked up this truck so still exploring and finding "things".

 

The only pic i see is of your avatar