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Anyone with a Volare suspension done their our aligning? I understand the caster/camber, toe in toe out etc...and have a general DIY concept, but just wondering what others have used as far as tools and procedures.
Going to the alignment shops is a pain, most shops here are oblivious to what was done to the truck and don't comprehend the idea of a Volare in a Ford....
The last suspension I installed was a Mustang II in a 1929 Ford and I did all of my own alignment work using JC Whitney tools. They have an alignment gauge and toe-in gauge you can buy. I aligned the suspension in my car and drove it for about 100 miles which you need to do anyway as it "settles" some. Then I reset it and took it to a Goodyear dealer and had it put on their machine. They didn't change a thing. I am hoping I will be as lucky on the Volare installation, but even if it's not perfect, I think I can get it close enough and then have it checked by the pros. You're right about some shops not wanting to set the alignment on hot rods. Be prepared to furnish your own alignment specs when you get there. Sometimes they aren't the same as they would be in the donor car.
On my stock 53 Olds, I took it to my old high school to have it aligned by the students, (the car was lowered to the max) many of the local shops said that their computers didn't have the alignment specs in their computer, I said I had them and they were...... "oh our computer does not accept specs to be inputted"....... wow.
At the school, not only did I get alot of compliments from the students, the instructor allowed me to go over what I knew about aligning the Olds and where to make the adjustments, etc. It was a cool lesson in old cars for the kids.....gave them the specs and off they went....too bad I don;t live in my hometown anymore....
Boy do I feel like a shade tree mech. I used a $10. clinometer from Sears and string and a tape measure. Found the specs for the '76 volare in my old Chilton's manual. Seems to be ok on the road.
I may have called it by the wrong name, it's an angle finder. Round, works by gravity and tells you the degree off vertical. The truck drives good, just wish I had more time to work on it and drive. But, I guess I'm not alone there.
1. Park on a flat, smooth surface (concrete garage floor). Any unevenness will produce errors in the measurement.
2. Put a socket and longish extension on one of your lug nuts on the driver's side. You can use a tire iron but a straight extension works best.
3. Turn your wheels all the way to the left. Tie a string with a weight to the end of the extension so the weight JUST TOUCHES the floor. Do this carefully and don't touch or bump the socket, extension, string, or weight during the rest of the procedure.
4. Mark the spot under the weight with a 1. Use chalk or a pencil.
5. Turn your wheels all the way to the right.
6. Measure the distance from the weight to the floor and call it "H". This measurement should be made very carefully.
7. Mark the new spot under the weight with a 2.
8. Draw two lines parallel to the front axle through marks 1 and 2. Measure the distance between the two lines and call it "D".
9. The caster is equal to 57.3 x H / D degrees
Just kidding, should 've figured that it would involve math.
Anyway, how accurate have you found this to be?
Thanks,
Brett
PS. Used to do front end alignments long ago. One shop had a 50's Bear that looked right out of 'War of the Worlds'.
"D" is usually fairly large and easy to measure. "H" is the one that determines the accuracy along with the flatness of the surface you are parked on. If you use a longer extension "H" should be on the order of 1/2" or so. You can figure out the error based on how accurately you think you can measure "H". If you think you might be off by 1/8" out of 1/2" then the error will be 25% or 1 degree for every 4.
Is it really that hard to find a local alignment shop to accomplish this with accurate equipment for $39.95? $60.00 for a lifetime warranty. I guess I am lucky, we have a dozen shops around here with competent help, that show a little interest in an old ride. Not trying to rile anyone, just asking if you really can't get an alignment done.
Vern is right, if it goes down the road straight without excessive tire wear you are probably fine. That said, you could spend days checking and adjusting a custom application with the driveway method. Doesn't seem worth the trouble at all.
When I first got my 54 f100 last year it was so low in front that I could not get out of my driveway without scraping the front bumper. I called around to find a shop to raise the front about two inches and do the alignment on the volare. All but one said they could do the alignment but would not do both that and the raising. The guy that did say he could do it got a cool $100 for both, but it rides RIGHT now and I don't scrape anymore. John
I'm sure I spoke out of turn again. Adjusting ride height is part of a standard front end alignment on any t-bar equipped vehicle. It takes 5 minutes. Alignments are 40 bucks here on most vehicles. If you ask around, you can even get it done by somebody that cares enough to do a good job. It didn't make any sense to me to do a shadetree alignment for that price. Guess I got it good around here.
Is it really that hard to find a local alignment shop to accomplish this with accurate equipment for $39.95? $60.00 for a lifetime warranty.
Yes you are lucky. Here a 'standard' alignment starts around $55. Guess what? All you get is toe-in.(?alignment)
To get them to do caster and camber (THAT'S EXTRA!) You want 4-Wheel? (THAT'S EXTRA!) You want lifetime warranty? (THAT'S EXTRA!)
Easily more than double Iowegian rates, at half the quality. And that's nothing, try either coast.
Adios,
Brett