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I got the code 552 Thermactor Air Bypass solonoid circuit fault. I replaced both the Thermactor Air Bypass solonoid and the Thermactor Air Diverter solonoid, and the check engine light is still on. Does anyone know how to clear the codes or make sure they are cleared?? Also just out of curiosity, does anyone know what these solonoids do or what the Thermactor is? I was thinking it is related to EGR. Thanks
You have to remove the negative battery terminal for about a 1/2 hour to clear the computer. It might run rough for a few minutes after that until the computer re-learns all of it's programming.
Technically isn't it a better idea to pull the jumper wire while the computer is outputting codes to clear the memory? That way all of that relearning is unnecessary? Also there was a Mitchell Automotive repair manual (like the ones they might use at a really fancy auto repair place) that gave a pretty involved set of steps for computer relearning. If anyone would be interested, I'd post that information, but that's going to be a LOT of typing so you're going to have to ask REALLY nice.
Maybe, never heard that one though. I've always heard to just take the negative off. It's good to let the computer re-adjust once in awhile anyway. Make sure it's running right. Glad you mentioned it, but I'm not going to be the one to make you type it haha.
Hey guys,
I unhooked the negative battery cable for about an hour just to be sure. Now the check engine light is back on and the code 332 EGR valve not opening comes up on our SnapOn scanner. Whats up with this?? I tested my EGR position sensor and it appears to be good. Does this mean that the EGR valve is bad now??
Try pulling off the egr valve first, check for carbon build up and clean if clogged up.The themactor air diverter on my 88 -302 ,controls air pump distribution to the converters air tubes and dump valve. The solenoid controls all of the themactor air diverters functions by opening and closing vacuum to the diverters, the solenoid is controled by the computer. Themactor I think is fords name for smog pump. I don't believe the egr and t.a.d. are directly related.
Beleive it or not guys these computers are quite fallible. Mine occasionally picks up a error code here or there and the part it tells me is setting it off works fine. It doesn't happen too often but it does happen.
Here's what i do...warm the engine up and then pull the codes. Do the KOEO test first, write down the codes, and then do the ER test, and write down those codes.
Then I do the KOEO test again. The best way to clear the codes is to oull the jumper wire while the computer is transmitting the constant or stored memory codes. When you do the KOEO test, you get a set of codes twice, a flash, and then a second set of codes twice. This second set is you stored memory codes, this is when you pull the wire, before the computer is done transmitting these second set of codes. Then i do the KOEO test a third time to make sure the codes cleared. I like to be thorough that's why i do these test several times.
then start up your engine again let it warm up, shut it down and check the codes again, both KOEO and ER, write down these new codes. if the same codes are there, then you must start troubleshooting.
check your codes rebel the next time you get a chance, just because you don't have an engine light does not mean you do not have a trouble code. If the engine can adapt to the trouble code, then it will not constantly show an engine light.
have you changed the air filter lately or had the breather off for any reason. I changed my air filter one time and one of the clips on the pigtail to the MAF sensor snapped. It fit back in and seemed to hold well enough with one but when I started the engine I got the check engine light. Turns out it backed off enough to cause a fault. Bumpy road and intermittent light makes me think loose connection.