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you can undo the marmon clamp on the back of egr cooler and remove the clamp then use a flex head gear wrench on the HPOP cover bolts under the egr cooler
once you get the bolts out where possible pull the HPOP cover out with the 2 bolts under the egr cooler all together
the egr cooler can stay in place
oh gotcha, im goin out there to finish it right now but it looks like if you take the heat shields off you could take it out without removing the y-pipe. dunno if thats possible or not?.....
ok how do you tell if the stc fitting or the oring is bad? i have it all out and gonna replace it with the update but i wanna see something messed up lol.
ok how do you tell if the stc fitting or the oring is bad? i have it all out and gonna replace it with the update but i wanna see something messed up lol.
I have one that I replaced on a truck and never could find anything wrong with it and the o-ring was intact.
One thing that wasn't mentioned was that if you're not going to pull the intake you have to cut off the heat shield mount on the back of the cover for clearance to be able to tilt the cover off. A little die grinder works miracles here.
ok so changed the fitting and put it back together. same thing, slow starts when its hot. WTF?.... can i air check the oil system through the icp sensor in the valve cover?...
any ideas guys? ipr valve is at 23% at idle and goes waaay up when you get in the gas. truck runs great when you first fire it up whether its been sitting or not and then after driving for a while and you get on it, it will only boost to 17. just givin you as many details as possible. no codes and runs smooth with no misses, no smoke.
well at first it acted better but in the end same thing. how do i know if it has the right oil filter cap?
also someone mentioned that they had a similiar problem and it was the fuel rail?.... what exactly does that mean and could this be my problem. can i put air to the icp sensor to leak check the system?
If it is hard to start when cold then it has a high pressure oil leak. Most of the time it is leaking from the dummy plugs in oil rails. Ford has an updated version to fix the problem.
took it to a shop and apparently has 2 leaks and suppose to get a price tomorrow. how do you replace the dummy plugs? ill post what the leaks are tomorrow. dunno if ill do it or let him do it.
To get to the dummey plugs you have to get the valve covers off their in the HPO rail and you might as well do the standpipes at that point to
Both parts are under the valve covers Labor Wise its a no Brainer you just do both parts both sides
and yes you blow air into the ICP to air test
Bismic had a thread with a vid about it going today I havent watched it yet But Im shure coming from Mark its VERY HELPFUL and Spot On
I would think that one could change those parts out in a day or two max if you havent done it B4
Its not to bad a job when I did injectors B4 about the same labor wise
If you remove valve covers you can easily tell if it has old non updated stand pipes and dummy plugs because old ones use 10mm allen and new ones use 12 mm allen.
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