Hello Everyone:

I started this thread a long time ago, so now I'll tell you what I found out.

I have, for the last couple of years, had a problem with my check engine light coming intermittently on and off. Lately, however, the light has been remaining on. The error code on my Actron tester was 332 which is identified as an emission gas recirculation problem.

Anyways, I replaced the EGR valve, only to be disappointed. The light still kept coming on. Now I know what the problem is, however. An experienced auto technician walked me through this and you will probably find out that this is more than likely your problem as well.

When you are idling the truck, take off the green hose going to the EGR valve. hook a long piece of thin hose to the EGR valve, and while the truck is running, suck on the hose. It takes little suction pressure. If the car stalls, you can automatically rule out a bad EGR valve or clogged soot or carbon in the ports. The problem is somewhere in the vacuum coming off the green hose.

Next, while the truck is running, pull off the green hose two-piped connector that is hooked up to a solenoid below the EGR valve. There is the green hose and a small black hose under it. They are actually nylon tubes that should never crack because of the type of plastic they are. The piece is a double, rubber connector with the green and black hose on it.

Now, check for a vacuum by holding your finger on the bottom of the rubber connector connected to the black hose. If you feel no suction while the truck is running, then surely you have a break somewhere in the vacuum.

Long story short: There is a V-8 like tin can that is responsible for the EGR funtioning. Facing the truck, it is located in front of the 12-volt battery. What I found was -- to my surprise -- was that one of the two hoses going into the V-8 can was cracked. I wrapped thick duct tape over it and sealed it well. Now, the light is off for good and I am sure that cured the problem.

I plan to put a piece of hose in place of the duct tape to better seal the pipe. But in the meantime, the light is off and I am very pleased that I found the problem.

Also, I failed three emissions tests before solving this problem, and I am certain that when I take the truck back in for another test, it will pass. I actually passed everything except for the NOx test. My reading is over 1,700 and the limit is 859 for Ohio.

I only hope I pass the emissions test next time. I think this is what kept me from passing it in the first place.

 

Good info, thanks.

 

I'm sure this will help alot of people out.

 

Nice, very informative post. I am serious when I say thank you for being clear with the explanation.

However I would like to add that about a year ago, when I was having EGR problems, it was the solenoid itself and not a broken line that was the problem. I determined that after using my vac gauge to test the lines running into and out of it; which also works for testing the EGR valve.

 

I have had the same problem since sometime in November.Got to the point where my truck would start cold but die minutes later and would not restart. I read all the responses posted. I tried looking at the bottom of the steel vacuum can and tested for leaks, can was ok, checked vacuum lines for cracks, all appeared good( I've had those colored nylon hoses crack on me through the years, but have patched with rubber vacuum hose). Replaced the egr solenoid and egr position sensor, still getting code, this last weekend pulled the EGR valve and intake manifold, someone said the intake ports could be clogged, so I wanted to make sure. With everything off, I found my vacuum leak. Where the vacuum lines run along the fuel rail under the intake manifold(plenium) the lines had rested agaist the manifold riser to the EGR valve and melted all the way through. I had a shop replace my exhuast header last year, I figure they didn't secure the bundle of vacuum lines away from the manifold riser, they also didn't put a gasket back on where my EGR connects to the intake, they just used silicone grease. Got the vacuum lines at a salvage yard, gonna tighten everything back up and try it out tommorow.

 

Good work and many thanks for this information.

 

Your welcome.

 

I get an occasional check engine light and a code 332. If the truck is under enough of a load then the ac quits blowing out of the dash. I have replaced most of the related vacuum hoses.

I tried idling the truck, taking off the green hose, hooking a piece of vacuum hose directly to the EGR valve and sucking on it. The truck started running very poorly but did not completely quit. Can I rule out a bad EGR valve or clogged soot or carbon in the ports?

 

Old thread, but just saved me 1-2 hrs troubleshooting. Mine was cracked all right. Broken off at coupling and dangling midair. Many thanks.

 

did you have any symptoms of egr valve issues? My truck have this code, what are the symptoms beside the code? Thanks