It was 1997 and I owned a 1977 Ford F-100 Inline 8 with "3 on the tree". I fell in Love with the F Series then, but getting married and moving onto a Hospital ship for 5 years, I had to sell my baby.

Now 15 years later I am looking to find an old F Series truck and rebuild/restore her to her former beauty and power.

I have the opportunity to buy a 1970 F250, but I first want to get some advise regarding restoring old F series trucks, particularly which ones may be easier as a first time restore project. Are there certain years and F series that are easier to find part for?

My main critieria is that it is 1975 or earlier as this will exempt it from needing a California Smog Cert.

Beyond that... F100, F150, F250 I don't really have a preference - hence why I am looking for advise.

Looking for Wisdom, so I don't have to learn the hard way.

SoCal-Kiwee

 

So cal, For my 2, I would look at a 100 over a 250 unless you need heavy duty hauling & towing on a daily basis. I haul & pull some big numbers with my 100 and don't get my teeth chattered with the HD suspension. Other than that the trucks are pretty much the same.

Take your time, don't rush, look at many.



John

 

First, welcome to FTE. And I take it you're a USN sailor as was I from 84-91. Thanks for your service.

I concur with your desire to avoid the smog checks.. it puts a damper on the hobby IMO..Notice the years of my toys in the sig. There are pros and cons with 67-72s and the 73-79s (for the purpose of discussion limit it to 73-75 to maintain the CA exemption).

First, I recommend sticking with a small block 2WD shortbed. They'll be pricier because they are more desirable than longbeds but alot more friendlier in parking lots, power to weight ratio, and general size considerations (like your garage!).

Other issues...
Power steering! Manual is a pain in parking lots and slow maneuvering. Generally available stock but if ya find a rig without PS, parts are readily available to retrofit a system.
Power brakes (disc?). Discs will be more prevalent in the 73-75 models but can be retrofitted to 67-72s. I'm doing a power disc swap from a 78 to my 70. I could install it right now and the total cost would be around $250-$300 using good junkyard parts.
Auto vs trans..In SoCal eh? Traffic is gnarly down there. Opt for an automatic but if you dare, swap in a T-5 5-speed for a shortbed. The T5 can withstand 300 ft.lbs. of torque but I'd avoid side-stepping the clutch for a killer launch. With the T5 swap in a 4.10 rear gear so yer final drive ratio will range between 2.79 and 3.00 - a good freeway gear.
Parts Availability... I find more 73-79s in the wrecking yards than 67-72s. However, 67-72s are more popular for restoring/restomodding... they appear more sleek whereas the 73-79s are "chunkier".
Engines.. A 302W or dare to be different and go with a 300 six-banger. The latter has pretty good aftermarket support with headers, a 4-bbl intake, and it's torquey - good for the street and a heavy vehicle. Head to Clifford Performance in Temecula and pick up an exhaust header as your first upgrade. Any future upgrades needs a good foundation so that's where you oughtta begin.

Here are some popular parts vendors for your Googling pleasure. Order up some free catalogs:
Dennis Carpenter Reproductions
LMC Truck
National Parts Depot
Blue Oval Truck Parts
Mac's Antique Auto Parts (awesome catalog with Ford PNs)
John's F-Funhundreds (out of Pomona!)
Jeg's
Summit Racing.

 

No, no sir, you are too kind to include me in such an honorable group.

I was a volunteer with an organization called Mercy Ships that used old retrofitted vessels that were converted into Hospitals ships. See Mercy Ships to check it out.

Thank you though, for YOUR service!

Thanks aswell for the advice, it will definitly help me focus in on the right F Series for me.

I think I will focus my search to 1967-1975 F100 with a small block 2WD shortbeds...

Hopefully this is not to narrow of a category to find my first F Series restore!

I look forward to participating in this forum more.

Thanks Again!

SoCal-Kiwee

 

im on my first restore/ hotrod too. 68 f100 longbed. my segestion is to try not to go stock and think outside the box, unless money isnt an issue. it is for me as im 20 and going to college.

 

I am also starting to shop for my first restore truck. I prefer the 67-72 5th edition F100's. What is considered most desirable from a collector standpoint? Is there an engine combination that is rarer than others?

What options are hardest to find? I love that side bed tool compartment, but doesn't it come on longbeds only?

And what is a Winsor engine? I have seen that posted a couple times.

Other than the obvious rust in the floor boards that is prevalent in a lot of these trucks, are there other things that I should run the other way from?

Thanks in advance.

 

mine doesnt have a side tool compartment. may only be on the 250s or 350s. a windsor engine is just basicly where its made. also when your looking for one id sujest trying to find one with a 302. Most parts for the 302 will fit a 351 if the 351 is made after 77. which is great when you are needing to replace the engine cause you can go with something better after your wear out the weak. sort beds are the popular ones but if you want to be cool like me do a long bed . check my videos out. killertctma's Channel - YouTube that should be my youtube channel.

 

While I have no idea how the name originated "Windsor" is designation for 302/351W family of engines. I am not positive but the 289 may also be in that family. They are easy to spot as they are small in physical size.

You only stated pre '75 so I am assuming anything prior to '75 is good. The '53-'56 F100's are probably the easiest trucks to get parts for. They are reproduced everywhere. If I were shopping for one I would look for a SWB as the value will be higher. I have seen trucks available in all kinds of conditions and prices. Driving solid trucks for under $1000 to tore down projects hovering $10,000.

I think I would first start with what I want when it's finished. Do you want to drive it as much as possible during the process or tear it down and do it all at once over time? Example would be you plan on putting a late model V8/auto and not planning on driving it until it is finished. You can probably buy a body and chassis with no engine or trans for less than a running truck. If you find one with the engine trans combo you desire it of course is an option for purchase.

When I went shopping I decided I wanted a nice street truck that I could drive as much as possible during the process. I knew I would be putting a 460/C6 combo in so the engine as long as it ran was good with me. I live in IN and the truck came out of GA. My mindset was body/chassis. The engine and trans had no value to me so I gave them no value when thinking about purchase price. I lost a cyl in TN on the trip to IN. No big deal, it made it home ok and I am not keeping this engine anyway. It sat for about a year after I brought it home before I got to messing with it.

Little by little I am doing what I want done in the order I think best. I have the 460/C6 and plan on having it in by spring. I have also driven the truck (as a toy) during the process. Kind of getting the idea? Decide what you want when it is finished, how you plan on doing it & purchase your project accordingly.

 

From what I remember, the 351 Windsor was manufactured in Windsor, Ontario, and the 351 Cleveland was made in Ohio. The Cleveland is a totaly different assembly. I remember someone refering to it as a "grenade motor," because it would come apart at high RPM's!

Oh, and 289 is to 302, like 360 is to 390...longer stroke, started appearing in 1967 (at least in my '67 cougar, that is...)

 

Correct.... except for the "grenade" comment. I can grenade anything. Clevelands have crummy heads IMO.

-Windsors: 260, 289, 302, 351... the 351W has a one-inch taller deck height and an extra rib cast spanning the distributor hole and block. Typical 302 strokers are 331 and 347. A 351W can be stroked to 427.
-Clevelands: 351
-"Clevor": A custom aftemarket hybrid of the Windsor and Cleveland
-FE: 332, 352, 360, 390, 410, 427, 428..+other variants like 361 and 391. A 390 can be stroked to about 454.. visit Survival Motorsports.
-M-series engines: 351M and 400. Contrary to popular belief, the "M" designation doesn't mean "Modified".
-429/460s are their own architecture... the hot ticket is a 557 stroker. Google "Jon Kaase" and be inspired.

 

Several things come to mind when someone wants to restore a vehicle. Do you want to do an original restore or update the truck to accomodate todays driving? Are you looking for something to drive every day, once and awhile, or something mainly to look at? Are you looking for something "rare"? Are you looking for something that can eventually be a future investment? Sometimes its way cheaper to buy a truck already restored than try and do a "ground up restore", unless you can do alot of the work yourself of course. All it takes is time and money, LOL!
You can learn alot from the guys in this forum.......and I also agree with the above statements, a shortbed 2wd f100 is the way to go. 67-72 models is what I like the best and are good trucks. They changed the body style in 73.....something else to think about. Everyone likes different things, its up to you to look around and make up your mind as to what you would want to go with, but at any rate, your making a good choice by going with a FORD truck! Take your time and Good luck!

 

well if you can drive it while you restore it more power to you. thats what i wanted to do to mine but its not working out that way. when i go to fix one thing there are to many other problems to be delt with first so if just sits in the drive way. mainly all there is to do now is body work and wiring so hopefully ill have it done by next summer.

 

Mine has been a driving project the time I have had it. I have at the same time worked at moving forward with the project. It is not a daily driver but if I want to put some miles on it I can. The engine has gotten pretty bad now. I have my replacement (460) so it will go in here soon. Being able to drive a project helps keep the fire alive. Sitting projects seem to end up being towed away. You see it in every project for sale.

My mock up takes place as I am driving the truck. When it comes time to do the body and paint it will get tore all the way down and done. It will go much quicker. Everything done except prettiness. Body off, blast and paint the frame. Do all the body work and paint it. Put it back together. I am getting ready to enter a phase of spend money with no visible results. Wiring, heat/cool, rubber, windows, etc.

It's a toy. Have fun with it. Fun overrules pretty. We always get positive comments when we take it out. Mismatched wheels, primer and all.

 

oh i take mine out just not far cause its not street legal. killertctma's Channel - YouTube

 

Mine is without major work never gonna be street legal again. No wipers = not street legal.