Even a crappy set of new or rebuilt injectors ought to start well enough. I've played around with starting without GPs in different temps. Since I have a digital temp sensor in the coolant I go by that temp rather than outside ambient temps and as long as my block coolant temp reads 55F or higher the engine will start within 6 seconds of cranking--PowerMaster 9050 starter and 2 healthy batteries, 135k on IP & old BB injectors. Perhaps something is very much out of spec with your injectors?

 

Before you try to start it next time remove the fuel filter. If there's air in it that is a sign of air intrusion. You can crank the engine and hold down the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing to bleed the air unit you get a solid stream of fuel. Then she should start easy enough.

If you have air intrusion a good place to start for a cure is to install an injector return line kit.

 

Or at least try using a jug of diesel and bypass the tanks to isolate that part of the system as a potential cause of air intrusion.

 

The good thing about a drain back issue is, the truck will start right up fast as normal, but then stall. This is because it will fire on the fuel in the IP and the hard lines, but once that runs out, it stalls because the fuel drained back. If it's just plain hard to start, plug in the block heater and if it just starts right up easy, then you know you have a glow plug system issue. If it still starts hard, even plugged in, then you should inspect the starting system; starter batteries and cables. The engine needs to turn over nice and fast to get good starts. The colder out it is, the more you'll realize how slow things get if any of those are in poor shape. If still no good, then you could just have a worn out, low compression engine.

If you want a super easy, fast starting IDI engine right down to 0F or even lower, without a block heater or any other starting aids. do the following and this is the importance in order:

1. Ensure good compression.
2. Ensure fresh IP and injectors (150k or less, and under 10 years in age. Whichever comes first) w/ timing line "around" slight offset to the pass side (you'll get best performance and economy dialed in with a meter, but starts will be good anywhere close.)
3. Fresh batteries with all the highest CCA you fit (at least two matching 850CCA - I have GREAT, long lasting results with Autozone Duralast Gold DLG-65 - I'm getting at least 5 years from them.)
4. Fresh, corrosion free battery cables. The largest you can afford. 3/0 is good (I went 4/0 in my chip truck). (Correction: 2/0 is good, I went 3/0 in chip truck) Match the size + and -.
5. Fresh starter (I have had GREAT results with autozones lifetime warrantied remans.)
6. Glow plug relay (the 1987+ relay. I would upgrade to it, if I had an older IDI)
7. Authentic motorcraft glow plugs, all reading 1 ohm or less resistance.
8. Duralift electric fuel pump and block off plate.
9. Everything that can be replaced, updated or blocked off for fuel lines, from tank to IP.

When all said and done, you should be able to go out in 0F temps after the truck has been sitting all night, and get approx a 12-15 second wait to start light and before you can say "one Mississippi" while cranking, the truck should be running. Yes, that's without the block heater plugged in. After the first start of the day, you should just be able to turn the key and never mind the WTS light unless it's been several hours and it's early spring/ late fall. Warm starts should always be instant.

 

Good info thanks for that,
I definitely don't have any stating issues after it been started same day.
it doesn't stall once started.
Haven't done compression check, with over 330000 miles might be due.
Batteries, alternator, glow plugs, harness and injector seals all new.

I may consider a new high torque starter, don't know the current type but fairly certain it's oe.

This truck is new to me but was in the family and I've done most of the work to it over the last few years, one owner truck used for work and family vacations not abused unless borrowed by a cousin, all the maintenance and repairs have been oe.
So I may need to sit down and draw up some fuel system upgrades if there need be.



I've replaced the filter and primed it no real difference, but that was first step when trying to correct lack of throttle response issue that was fixed by o rings. So I may revisit to check out the possibility of air intrusion.

[​​​​​QUOTE=FORDF250HDXLT;21536220]The good thing about a drain back issue is, the truck will start right up fast as normal, but then stall. This is because it will fire on the fuel in the IP and the hard lines, but once that runs out, it stalls because the fuel drained back. If it's just plain hard to start, plug in the block heater and if it just starts right up easy, then you know you have a glow plug system issue. If it still starts hard, even plugged in, then you should inspect the starting system; starter batteries and cables. The engine needs to turn over nice and fast to get good starts. The colder out it is, the more you'll realize how slow things get if any of those are in poor shape. If still no good, then you could just have a worn out, low compression engine.

If you want a super easy, fast starting IDI engine right down to 0F or even lower, without a block heater or any other starting aids. do the following and this is the importance in order:

1. Ensure good compression.
2. Ensure fresh IP and injectors (150k or less, and under 10 years in age. Whichever comes first) w/ timing line "around" slight offset to the pass side (you'll get best performance and economy dialed in with a meter, but starts will be good anywhere close.)
3. Fresh batteries with all the highest CCA you fit (at least two matching 850CCA - I have GREAT, long lasting results with Autozone Duralast Gold DLG-65 - I'm getting at least 5 years from them.)
4. Fresh, corrosion free battery cables. The largest you can afford. 3/0 is good (I went 4/0 in my chip truck). Match the size + and -.
5. Fresh starter (I have had GREAT results with autozones lifetime warrantied remans.)
6. Glow plug relay (the 1987+ relay. I would upgrade to it, if I had an older IDI)
7. Authentic motorcraft glow plugs, all reading 1 ohm or less resistance.
8. Duralift electric fuel pump and block off plate.
9. Everything that can be replaced, updated or blocked off for fuel lines, from tank to IP.

When all said and done, you should be able to go out in 0F temps after the truck has been sitting all night, and get approx a 12-15 second wait to start light and before you can say "one Mississippi" while cranking, the truck should be running. Yes, that's without the block heater plugged in. After the first start of the day, you should just be able to turn the key and never mind the WTS light unless it's been several hours and it's early spring/ late fall. Warm starts should always be instant.[/QUOTE]

 

Air intrusion is very simple to diagnose;
1. You'll have easy starts (if everything is good) and stall after a few seconds, first start of the day or maybe even after a few hours, during the same day....or possibly not until a few days. All depends on how bad the air leak is.
2. With a real bad air leak, you'll get a "turbo boost" feeling while driving, as it sucks in air.

If you don't have these, these are not part of a hard starting issue. You can think of it this way;
9 out of 10 hard start issues are bad glow plugs (Never trust and assume brand new GP's can't burn out on their first glow, if they are not authentic motorcraft. Never trust any other plug). 8 out of 10 are worn out batteries. 7 out of 10 are worn out starter. 6 out of 10 are worn out battery cables. 5 out of 10 are worn out IP and injectors. 4 out of 10 is a burned out GP relay. 3 out of 10 is worn out, low compression engine.

Air intrusion issues are not alone in being hard starting. Even with air intrusion,if everything else is all good, the truck will start, stall and restart hard with lots of cranking and sputtering after 15-20 seconds or so. Just a plain hard cold start, follow the list of most likely.

 

So, I've done pretty much everything except starter and cables, and gp relay. I might start with a starter and check cables and relay.
is there an upgrade for starter. Like stock option similar to the V6 high torque install in sbf?
Thanks.

 

I run the reman starters from autozone. I'm having very long lasting results. With my log truck, it may "only" get a half dozen or so starts per day, as I idle it a lot to keep the auto crane battery charged, but with my chip truck, I can start that truck up to what feels like a million times per day, moving it around, backing up to brush piles, twitching logs etc. and it still lasts for several years.

Chip trucks (F250) records:
Starter 1; 2012 - The only one I had to buy, because they're lifetime warrantied.
Starter 2; 2014 (notice the first one only lasted a couple years for some reason.)
Starter 3; 2017 - Still going in 2025. This ones a real trooper, unless I just forgot to document a swap or two.... But I don't think so. I don't replace them very often. 3 times since 2009 (16 years) feels about right.

Whatever was in my log truck (f450) lasted for many years, (since 2013) and then I went and bought a reman at AZ for this one too (last year in 2024).
It will be the only one I'll have to buy for this truck too. I could have been dishonest and just exchanged it, claiming it was for my F250, but I couldn't do that. Their starters have treated me so good in my money makers, I was happy to buy another one for the other truck.

I couldn't begin to guess how many starts per year there would be in the f250. The number would be insane. 20 starts during the day or something like that on average? I dunno. Best guess. The fact they last more than a year surprises me. Since I don't have to re-buy them, I wouldn't even care if they only lasted a year either haha..........So long as they just dragged before giving up and not stranding me. If memory serves, I think they've always done just that too. I've never been on a job where I had to run for a starter, so it must be the case. They eventually just slow down and I replace them before they totally fail.


-----------------

As for starting with spray, I've been starting my diesel wood chipper with it for many, many years. At least a decade. I just crank it and getting it spinning, and while cranking it, I'll shoot a tiny shot at the air cleaner and if doesn't take off, I'll shoot another tiny shot. By tiny, I mean about a 1/4 second shot. Just enough to make the engine fire. It takes such a small amount. It's just a little 3 cylinder anyway.