First off - Yes - I have read all the sticky threads and searched for the info I'm looking for.

I've had my E-350 7.3L PSD for about 3 years and each year the cold starting problem gets worse. At first all I needed to do was change the week battery but last year I changed out both batteries for a matched set and still had some problems. I was going to work on it this summer but never got around to it. Now that the weather is getting cooler I need to get this problem fixed.

My first problem is that I don't know if I have a GPR or a GPCM. My van manule doesn't cover deisels. I have opened the rear cover and removed the heat shealds and air filterbox but I don't see any relays.

Is there any where that I can get step by step info on how to find/test/replace my GPR/GPCM and test/replace my glow plugs - ON A VAN???

 

Can you describe your cold starting problem for us?

 

engine turns over but does not start. Some times it will start on second third or fourth try. Sometimes the batteries run down before it gets started and it wont crank any more. Useualy when this happens it will start with a jump on the second or third try.

I removed the alternator and saw the two relays behind it. Looks like I have a GPR. The second relay (furtest towards the back) looks newwer than the other. However, it is still not possible for me to get any test equipment on it.

 

In a van unfortunately its really hard to get in there. The only test equipment you need is a good multimeter.

 

Do I need both batteries hooked up or will one suffice?

 

John, I am a van man. you do have a relay. if your looking through the hood, its on the left about 10" back from the front of the valve cover. You will have better access to it if you remove that big block of wires right there in your face. With a 10mm. Unfortunately its the one further back. there looks like two in a row but its the furthest one back. If you don't want to play the make another one fit somehow game. Just get a new one from ford. its not too much money. It will fit correct and the bent wires will hook up correctly. sometimes playing games just ain't worth it. Because as you know, under a van its very hard to alter things when you cant reach.
But i replaced my glow plugs and had the thing plugged in and it went like this. turn the key and leave it forward for 30 seconds or so. turn off ignition. turn key on and wait for 30 seconds again and it seems like the van only wants to pop off during the first second or two anything after that just forget about it. turn the key off turn it on and the second the light goes off quick try to start it. Its like you have to catch it in the right sequence for it to start. Well, i changed my GPR and it was like a whole new engine as far as starting was concerned. Plus you should have a normal GPR and not that digital box thing. The digital box thing is for california smog vans. I already went through all this. So take my advice and get a GPR, put it in and move on. You'll be happy. Unless you have a few bad glow plugs then thats a different strory.

 

Thank you Krazy,

I see the "big block" of wires and the GPR.

What is the first (forward) relay for?

If I remove the first relay to get access to the GPR will I beable to accuratly test the GPR?

 

BUMPAnyone?

 

i cant remember what the first solenoid is for anymore. but i didn't remove the first one to remove my gpr. I just stuck the 8 or 10 mm socket down there and undid the two bolts and it was free. But i did undo all the other wires on top first out of common sense.
If you get a new gpr just don't install it backwards because it will blow fuel into your air filter and ignite. You don't want that happening. Yeah, Im just kidding. but seriously make sure you watch those little wires and immediately look for the - and + so you don't put the wires on the wrong side. write it down or something, your short term memory is shorter than you think.
Personally i wouldn't waste my time testing the gpr. first off, you can't open it and see how much damage is done to the disc inside even if your tool says it has good ohms or volts it doesn't tell you if the mechanical parts are good. Its a cheap fix that these trucks need anyways.

 

The front one is the AIH relay. As long as the batteries are disconnected, you can remove it. But I'm with Krazymann, just replace it. Not too hard and if it isn't bad now, it will be eventually.