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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

straight axle or ???

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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #1  
56fordguy's Avatar
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straight axle or ???

Hi could i get some input on should i keep the straight axle or not im not going to race or anything just a cool street machine. i have a 56 f-250 also how difficult to change to disc brakes and go to a 5 lug not a 8 lug thnx guys
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Jeff and Nicolle
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Nothing wrong with keeping the straight axle at all! It's a matter of getting the brake hardware and rotors/hubs to switch to 5 lug. the front axles are the same including the spindles. Welcome!

edit:
I just realized you said '56 and I am talking '48-'52. But someone else will confirm this or tell me I wrong! Sorry!
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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The F-100 rotors will fit the front axle and there are disk conversion kits for that axle - Swap the rear axle for a Ford 9"
That will be the least expensive way to get 5 lug patterns
Those two swaps will also allow some moderate lowering.
Also read: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-how-tos.html

53-79 F-Series Steering & Suspension .: Articles
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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I left the straight axle on mine and added P/S. Make sure the king pins and ball joints are good if not replace and get a good alignment. The truck will drive great. I purchased the power disk brake kit for mine and replaced the dana with a bit newer ford 9.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Stay with the straight axle; I've been driving my truck for well over 20 years and still going. I've driven from N.C. to KY, and back and several trips between S.C. & N.C. Just rebuild everything to include king pins and get some bilstein shocks.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Agreed. Stay with the straight axle. I will suggest putting power steering on it so you can have the alignment shop put a lot of caster on it so it will track down the road straighter. More caster makes it a little tougher to steer, but with power steering you will never know it.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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If your truck has a 34" frame width I would suggest the 2003-2007 Crown Victoria front suspension swap. Eight bolts, some measuring, and a little frame boxing is the basic extent of the Crown Vic swap. It has 12" disc brakes with double piston calipers, rack and pinion, power steering, and the ride of a crown vic. Also something to note is that I believe it has a 64" track width and requires 16" or larger wheels. It will also lower the front of your truck to the ride height of a Crown Vic although with some creativity there are ways of maintaining your stock ride height if so desired. BUT that would give you an awesome ride and disc brakes for cheaper than any disc brake conversion kit I've found. I can get the whole front suspension from a Crown Vic at the local pull-a-part for ~$200. Plus it is as close to a bolt in swap as you can get in the front suspension world. I actually have a 1958 F-100, and I am going to do this swap as soon as I find the correct year vehicle and when I get enough free time to do it. So if you are already considering a front suspension swap, I recommend this one. It's much easier and tons cheaper than the ever so popular Mustang II swap.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Please expand on lifting the CV suspension. Stock it appears to be approximately 11" to the bottom of the frame with a 26" stock tire. How much can you lift before you run out of stroke on top and start having alignment issues?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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Hey 56fordguy,
You will get a lot of opinions on what front end solution is best.
I can tell you that the mustang II front suspension I installed is
beautiful & wonderful & really expensive. The actual kit I used was around $3K but it just opens a can of worms that never stops. You take the engine out & the front sheet metal off - Now you might as well upgrade all the wiring, the steering, rear sump for the engine to clear the new front end, new master cylinder, new wheels, etc.....

For under a $1,000 you can refurbish the existing straight axle - why not try that first before doing the major surgery of welding in a new front suspension & all the above.

Ben in Austin
 
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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Ben that was my train of thought when I decided to stay with the straight axle; in addition there is the cost of labor which I could weld good enough to install the MII however, I could & did rebuild the front end components.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 06:48 PM
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Sorry it's been so long but as far as maintaining the stock ride height I saw a guy on You tube do it by putting 4" square tubing between the bottom of the frame and the top of the CV cross member. He is a high school shop teacher and was keeping a video journal from beginning to end. When he got done it drove and handled fine. I would recommend watching those videos if you have questions about keeping stock height.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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I've got the stock axle and steering (no power steering but with good king pins and alignment it works okay). Front disc brakes (GM, part of a conversion kit) with five lug wheels.
I'd recommend the ps conversion if you have the funds. Good luck.

Wally

1951 F1 - "Lucille"
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Pulling the stock straight axle out of my F7 for this one for some better braking:




But to answer your question, I had a 56 panel a few years back with a dropped axle, and installed a disc conversion on it. Drove it all over, never missed a lick. Unless you have the extra coin you want to spend on IFS, keep the straight axle and just upgrade the braking..
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 10:55 AM
  #14  
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Front suspension change?

Just about everyone had done something different. I would not say that I have the answer. But I can tell you what I wish I had not done. First I tries a dropped axle. Bought it from CPP, it was not straight or true. cost me $$$$ dearly to get the truck back togather and aligned. Then the bump steer was so bad I could not safely drive it. After 150 miles I tore out the dropped axle tehn went to a Helix Corner Killer IFS with coil overs. Start of lesson #2. Get a quality set up if your going this route, perhaps Hiedts would be better. Again.. I would not tell you what you should do, only what you should not do. I have worked out the bugs now, it was a considrable challenge to fit a 351C on this suspension. But I am very happy with the outcome..........now.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h50/flstni05/052.jpg
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Personally, any route is perfectly fine. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the stock suspension, IF you rebuild it with new king-pins, and shackle pins/bushings, and replace the tie-rod ends, and shocks. Most people that buy an old Ford truck, buy one that has a completely worn out suspension, and have never felt one that was in good mechanical condition. Most people that buy these trucks, instantly see "hot rod" "muscle truck" etc., personally, I learned to drive in a '55 F-350 pick-up, no power steering, or anything, and I like the way they drive in stock form, but I also like the feel of a nice IFS. I could care less about power disk brakes, or power steering, as they mean nothing on the highway, but are great around town. The disk brakes are only better when it comes to stopping when wet, or long declines. The stock drums work just fine, when adjusted properly, and mechanically sound. Most OTR trucks, still use drum brakes, and have less pressure moving them than the hydraulic brakes on cars. It comes down to personal preference, and no way is right, or better than another.
 
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