Help! '53 F250, stock drums all the way around. The left front wheel cylinder has a slow weep. I have brakes, but have to add fluid about once a month, and it leaves a spot on my driveway where the wheel sits.

I figured it was past time I took a look, so I removed the wheel and tire (8 lug), and the 3 screws holding the brake drum to the backing plate. The drum refused to budge off the hub, which really didn't surprise me all that much.

Next on the agenda was to adjust the brake shoes in to clear any ridge that may be on the edge of the drum. I tried looking in the adjuster hole on the back of the brake plate, and couldn't see a star adjustor. Nor could i feel anything that I could catch with a screwdriver. There is mild resistance and slight rubbing nose when turning the hub assembly by hand, probably from the shoes barely contacting the drum.

Persuading the drum with up to a 3 pound hand maul didn't budge it at all. I didn't really BASH the drum as I couldn't get a good swing, and I'm hesitant to resort to Gorilla Mechanics. I cleaned the drum where the studs poke thru, and around the center hub with liquid wrench and a wire brush to break loose any rust hold without success.

What am I missing here? I been thru the service manual, and the chassis parts breakdown book (that's where I found the 3 drum screws) so i know what it all looks like, and don't think i skipped a step. Any suggestions or tips would be deeply appreciated.

 

Try applying some violence with a hammer to the hub area between the studs like you're trying to pound the drum farther on and then around the outside edge on the same plane as the hub as if you're trying to shear off the studs. That usually loosens them up for me. Use a brass mallet or put the lug nuts back on the ends of your studs first, though. Steel hammers are hard on threads if you slip or miss.

 

After you hit the drum with a hammer, does the drum rock back and forth a bit? If not hit it harder, if it turns but does not rock, it's more than likely seized to the hub.

 

Try heating the area around the studs with a propane torch, while molesting the rim with a nylon hammer

 

You can also just pull the whole hub assembly off. It'll actually give you more room to work, and a chance to rpack those front bearings.