1986 e-350 Starting Issue
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1986 e-350 Starting Issue
So I know my question is about an e-350, not f-350, but instead of joining another forum for vans I thought I would stick with old reliable and see if you all have any ideas for my RV that wont start up.
I go to went to start the e-350 up and got a grinding sound (I think the sound is the starter trying to turn over but without enough battery) and see my battery is low (about 8 volts on the gauge). I put a jump on the battery (and later tried to charge the battery up) but then I get nothing (just a click and no turn over). Sure enough, if I take the jump off the battery it once again turns over (but too slowly because not enough battery to start up). Anyone had this before (slow turning/grinding sound with not enough volts but no turning with enough volts)? I could always start replacing parts (starter, solenoids, etc) but thought this might be a common problem leading to something I should look at first. My brother is ready to scrap the whole RV rather than pay to fix it so I am hoping I can get an easy fix to save this one from the trash heap. Any ideas of where to look first? Thanks in advance!
I go to went to start the e-350 up and got a grinding sound (I think the sound is the starter trying to turn over but without enough battery) and see my battery is low (about 8 volts on the gauge). I put a jump on the battery (and later tried to charge the battery up) but then I get nothing (just a click and no turn over). Sure enough, if I take the jump off the battery it once again turns over (but too slowly because not enough battery to start up). Anyone had this before (slow turning/grinding sound with not enough volts but no turning with enough volts)? I could always start replacing parts (starter, solenoids, etc) but thought this might be a common problem leading to something I should look at first. My brother is ready to scrap the whole RV rather than pay to fix it so I am hoping I can get an easy fix to save this one from the trash heap. Any ideas of where to look first? Thanks in advance!
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If it was a either one, would the starter turn at low amps but not high? In the past I have only had a starter either go or doesn't go (same with fender solenoid)--or would it make since to do the old machine gun click with not enough amps but to do nothing at full power if it was going out?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
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Try a different set of Jumpers or install a known good battery. I have seen many times where folks try to jump off a vehicle with a set of jumpers that are too light of a gauge or have high resistance in the clamps due to corrosion at the crimp where the cable connects to the clamp. Also ensure that ALL cable conections on the van are clean and tight. ie battery clamps and cable lug ends. If you have the bolt on cable clamps take them apart and be certain that they to are clean and tight. rust on the starter mounting bolts is an often overlooked grounding point as well. Once we have eliminated the chance of low current then we can move on to pin point the failure.
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Herb--thanks for the input. The cables actually makes a lot of sense because the starter won't turn only when they are connected (so possibly there is a short in the cables grounding out the system when hooked up). Thanks for the advice I will try all this and let you know the results!
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So I tried new, beefier jumpers and still same (head-scratching) problem. Should I go to the starter? Could a defective starter cut out under full power but not under low power? I am perplexed so any advice of things to check is appreciated.
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Ok, so you have all but eliminated the low voltage thing. Now with the jumpers conected let the jumping vehicle run 10 or so minutes to warm up, so to speak, the battery in the van. Then try to start in a normal manner. If still no go useing a piece of inulated wire or as most do a screw driver and jump accross the starter solinoid from the cable that leads from the battery positive to the small terminal that is closest to that cable connection. you may have to remove the wire that is connected there, It should have a rubber boot over it. one of three things will happen, the starter will engage and turn over the motor, or all you will hear is a click each time you put power to the small terminal, Or you will get no result what so ever. Now what does this tell us. if the starter turns over you have an issue with things leading up to the solinoid. If ths solinoid just clicks you have a bad cable to the starter or a bad starter. if you hear nothing at all then you need a new solinoid. Of course all this is assuming you have checked everthing that I mentioned before. Check it out and post back.
Last edited by Herb Brooks; Oct 12, 2011 at 03:36 PM. Reason: added comment
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Herb is talking about jumping 3 & 5, a good troubleshooting practice:
Another thing I've done with a single jumper cable is use it to jump 3 & 6, this totally eliminates the solenoid from the picture.
Expect lots of sparks.
Another thing I've done with a single jumper cable is use it to jump 3 & 6, this totally eliminates the solenoid from the picture.
Expect lots of sparks.
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Thanks everyone for the help--I'll try this and report back. One caveat: this RV is set up for 2 batteries (although we have only ever used one) so there are actually two battery pans and two fender mounted relays. Should I try jumping one and then the other or both relays at the same time? I assume when you turn the key both these solenoids will (ideally) engage under normal conditions? Should I try to rewire and get down to just one solenoid?
Thanks again for all the help!
Thanks again for all the help!
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No, I don't think it works that way... I believe one battery is for the truck and its normal accessories and the other is for the RV portion but they're both charged the same by the alternator.
81-F-150-Explorer is good with this stuff....
81-F-150-Explorer is good with this stuff....
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I believe this is correct. Easy on the re-wire stuff. Don't even think like that. I honestly believe this is a component issue. You haven't said that you had problems in the past, so my assumption is being an RV it has been at rest for a while. some times when a battery sits for a while it will discharge and if it was winter time then the battery could have frozen, when this happens it destroys the battery internally. Even if you see no out ward signs of damage it could be there. Also they tend to sulfate when resting dead. a sulfated battery in in tandem with your jump start battery will seldom start the vehicle. Because they wick away all the power and don't allow the currant to flow to the starter. Please before you hack up the wiring complete EVERYTHING that has been suggested in this thread. A cheap multi-meter is better than buying a bunch of parts. Edit: You need to concentrate on the battery and solinoid on the passenger side.
Last edited by Herb Brooks; Oct 13, 2011 at 09:00 PM. Reason: add comment
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The first thing I'd do is take the battery and make sure it has a full charge and can hold it. have it tested or put a new one on it if in doubt.
The second thing I'd do is take the starter off and have it tested.
If the battery cables look old, I'd throw a new set on it while I was at it. Don't forget the ground cables.
I've seen starters not want to turn due to them starting to seize up on their bearings.
I've also seen starter solenoids partially weld themselves together or stick in the open or closed positions.
The dual battery setup if it's factory, the aux battery is isolated from the main battery while the truck is off. This is so you can use the aux battery to run a camper, a camp trailer, or a motor home conversion without dis-charging the main battery. When the truck is in the run position it connects both batteries to the charging system. Check BOTH batteries and check the isolation solenoid, (Factory solenoids look simular to the starter solenoid). If both batteries are connected together when they shouldn't and if one or both are dead, it can cause problems.
The second thing I'd do is take the starter off and have it tested.
If the battery cables look old, I'd throw a new set on it while I was at it. Don't forget the ground cables.
I've seen starters not want to turn due to them starting to seize up on their bearings.
I've also seen starter solenoids partially weld themselves together or stick in the open or closed positions.
The dual battery setup if it's factory, the aux battery is isolated from the main battery while the truck is off. This is so you can use the aux battery to run a camper, a camp trailer, or a motor home conversion without dis-charging the main battery. When the truck is in the run position it connects both batteries to the charging system. Check BOTH batteries and check the isolation solenoid, (Factory solenoids look simular to the starter solenoid). If both batteries are connected together when they shouldn't and if one or both are dead, it can cause problems.
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