Winter is coming, need to rust proof
#1
Winter is coming, need to rust proof
I've been kicking around the idea to just have my truck undercoated with linex at the local truck outfitter, its only going to be about $350 but the thing is I dont have that kind of money right now. Plus my truck is an '87 and has cab corner rot, floor boards have already been replaced and will need to be replaced AGAIN soon, bed fenders are rotting too but not too bad yet. Theres a small hole right behind the drivers side reaf leaf spring shackle too.
Last summer (2010) I grinded down as much of the frame and under side as I could with wire wheels on a power drill then spray painted everything with rustolem. Half the frame is already rusted up again and needs some attention ASAP before it gets cancerous.
My question is should I go ahead and have it linexed or just grind it down again and paint it with rustolem, and if I do that, what is people's opinions on sand blasting? I know its bad to do it around the gas tanks because of static build up and could ignite my fuel (fire=bad day).
I read some other articles on here about possibly painting it with used oil, ATF, diesel, linseed oil, etc. My only problems with anything like that is on hot summer days it drips on the driveway then it would get tracked through the house (my dad experienced this when he had his old van sprayed with greese).
So my question is, what should I do? Linex? Rustolem? Oil/diesel/linseed oil?
Last summer (2010) I grinded down as much of the frame and under side as I could with wire wheels on a power drill then spray painted everything with rustolem. Half the frame is already rusted up again and needs some attention ASAP before it gets cancerous.
My question is should I go ahead and have it linexed or just grind it down again and paint it with rustolem, and if I do that, what is people's opinions on sand blasting? I know its bad to do it around the gas tanks because of static build up and could ignite my fuel (fire=bad day).
I read some other articles on here about possibly painting it with used oil, ATF, diesel, linseed oil, etc. My only problems with anything like that is on hot summer days it drips on the driveway then it would get tracked through the house (my dad experienced this when he had his old van sprayed with greese).
So my question is, what should I do? Linex? Rustolem? Oil/diesel/linseed oil?
#2
#4
I used the Chassis Saver on mine, and brushed it in spots where I could not spray. After applying two coats of the Chassis Saver, I applied one coat of black Rustoleum. I also used some black Epoxy Primer in spots where I could spray. I've read that the epoxy primer is just as good or better, and the quality body shops use it as well.
Here is a link;
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm
or here;
Product Lines
#5
spend the $100 and get a gallon. if you keep the extra covered up good you can use it on the outside of gas tanks, under side of the bed, total under carriage, and other nooks and crannys like under the carpet inside your bed. the chassis saver hardens when it hits air or moisture... can't remember which... so keep the extra sealed up tight or under syran rap...
#7
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#8
spray your undercarriage with the thickest motor oil you can find.
its the easiest and best way to stop rust. oil based paint will do it also, but the prep work is insane (cleaning etc). put oil in a spray bottle, go to town once every 3 months and douse it. 15 min job for the best results.
its the easiest and best way to stop rust. oil based paint will do it also, but the prep work is insane (cleaning etc). put oil in a spray bottle, go to town once every 3 months and douse it. 15 min job for the best results.
#9
spray your undercarriage with the thickest motor oil you can find.
its the easiest and best way to stop rust. oil based paint will do it also, but the prep work is insane (cleaning etc). put oil in a spray bottle, go to town once every 3 months and douse it. 15 min job for the best results.
its the easiest and best way to stop rust. oil based paint will do it also, but the prep work is insane (cleaning etc). put oil in a spray bottle, go to town once every 3 months and douse it. 15 min job for the best results.
Ive seen that done too.
Wait for a dry day
Spray the bottom of the truck, then find a dirt road that's really dusty and drive it like ya stole it to get the dust into the oil. Less drips off that way.
#10
not to grind on you two but hmm...
Lets add it up...
guessing you use about 1qt for this every 3 months...
1 qt of super tech (wal-mart 20w50) = $3 minimum
$3 x 4 (12 months/3month intervals=4) = $12/year in oil to cover...
My way:
1.) pull the bed (cost = new bolts $20)
2.) power wash underside of bed and chassis ($1-$10 depending if you own a power washer)
3.) let dry and drink a few beers ($2-$5 depending on beer)
4.) coat underneath with chassis saver (1gal: $84 + $15 S&H = $99)
5.) reassemble and forget about it for 10+ years! ($0)
Total = $130ish plus some time...
Cons of my way: It would take 10.833 years to overcome the inital cost vs the oil method. IF, it only cost you $3/qt and IF you only use 1qt per application...
Pros:
Do it once and forget about it for many many many years.
Beds off to do other maintence items... bonus...
Top of gas tanks sealed with under coating...
No oily coating on everything when you need to work on your truck
No reapplication every 3 months
Lets face it... it also just looks better!
Increases resale value to next owner if ever you sell it
Lets add it up...
guessing you use about 1qt for this every 3 months...
1 qt of super tech (wal-mart 20w50) = $3 minimum
$3 x 4 (12 months/3month intervals=4) = $12/year in oil to cover...
My way:
1.) pull the bed (cost = new bolts $20)
2.) power wash underside of bed and chassis ($1-$10 depending if you own a power washer)
3.) let dry and drink a few beers ($2-$5 depending on beer)
4.) coat underneath with chassis saver (1gal: $84 + $15 S&H = $99)
5.) reassemble and forget about it for 10+ years! ($0)
Total = $130ish plus some time...
Cons of my way: It would take 10.833 years to overcome the inital cost vs the oil method. IF, it only cost you $3/qt and IF you only use 1qt per application...
Pros:
Do it once and forget about it for many many many years.
Beds off to do other maintence items... bonus...
Top of gas tanks sealed with under coating...
No oily coating on everything when you need to work on your truck
No reapplication every 3 months
Lets face it... it also just looks better!
Increases resale value to next owner if ever you sell it
#11
not to grind on you two but hmm...
Lets add it up...
guessing you use about 1qt for this every 3 months...
1 qt of super tech (wal-mart 20w50) = $3 minimum
$3 x 4 (12 months/3month intervals=4) = $12/year in oil to cover...
My way:
1.) pull the bed (cost = new bolts $20)
2.) power wash underside of bed and chassis ($1-$10 depending if you own a power washer)
3.) let dry and drink a few beers ($2-$5 depending on beer)
4.) coat underneath with chassis saver (1gal: $84 + $15 S&H = $99)
5.) reassemble and forget about it for 10+ years! ($0)
Total = $130ish plus some time...
Cons of my way: It would take 10.833 years to overcome the inital cost vs the oil method. IF, it only cost you $3/qt and IF you only use 1qt per application...
Pros:
Do it once and forget about it for many many many years.
Beds off to do other maintence items... bonus...
Top of gas tanks sealed with under coating...
No oily coating on everything when you need to work on your truck
No reapplication every 3 months
Lets face it... it also just looks better!
Increases resale value to next owner if ever you sell it
Lets add it up...
guessing you use about 1qt for this every 3 months...
1 qt of super tech (wal-mart 20w50) = $3 minimum
$3 x 4 (12 months/3month intervals=4) = $12/year in oil to cover...
My way:
1.) pull the bed (cost = new bolts $20)
2.) power wash underside of bed and chassis ($1-$10 depending if you own a power washer)
3.) let dry and drink a few beers ($2-$5 depending on beer)
4.) coat underneath with chassis saver (1gal: $84 + $15 S&H = $99)
5.) reassemble and forget about it for 10+ years! ($0)
Total = $130ish plus some time...
Cons of my way: It would take 10.833 years to overcome the inital cost vs the oil method. IF, it only cost you $3/qt and IF you only use 1qt per application...
Pros:
Do it once and forget about it for many many many years.
Beds off to do other maintence items... bonus...
Top of gas tanks sealed with under coating...
No oily coating on everything when you need to work on your truck
No reapplication every 3 months
Lets face it... it also just looks better!
Increases resale value to next owner if ever you sell it
#13
#14
If you want to stop it forever chassis saver or similar. If you want to coat it with an oil and basically not have to worry about it for a long time-buy a product called fluid film. It is not motor oil, its some kinda thick, nasty greasy kinda of product you can spray on and it will not come off without some kinda of assistance. I coated all kinds of stuff with it, no rust.
OR
Go to home cheapo, buy some rustoleum rust converting paint and a few cans of satin black paint. Clean off as much rust as you can by hand, then spray the rust converter on, then wait and spray on the satin. I did this to a severely rusted toyota frame and maybe 1 small spot of surface rust come back.
OR
Go to home cheapo, buy some rustoleum rust converting paint and a few cans of satin black paint. Clean off as much rust as you can by hand, then spray the rust converter on, then wait and spray on the satin. I did this to a severely rusted toyota frame and maybe 1 small spot of surface rust come back.
#15
Its interesting to me to hear the conflicting results of using rustoleum.
I have been cleaning my frame, and front and rear diffs, and was going to blast some tremclad on them, but if the rust comes back fairly soon, I might just save my bucks!
My truck sees nothing but gravel, so chassis saver, as well as por 15 I believe would just get ripped right off.
I dont mean to hijack either!
I have been cleaning my frame, and front and rear diffs, and was going to blast some tremclad on them, but if the rust comes back fairly soon, I might just save my bucks!
My truck sees nothing but gravel, so chassis saver, as well as por 15 I believe would just get ripped right off.
I dont mean to hijack either!