Passenger side is leaking on my 1986 302 EFI.

From my searching this is what I have concluded.

Must remover upper intake plenum to access this valve cover. Need to replace this gasket during the job. This gasket requires no extra sealants, etc.....

I bought the Fel-pro rubber valve cover gaskets. I need to make sure valve covers are not "dimpled" and use a spray adhesive to mount the gaskets to the covers and then re install. Just "snug" the bolts.

The truck is 25 years old.... Should I take it down to the lower intake and replace these gaskets as well?

The upper intake bolts can be remover and this gives me enough room to perform the above repairs? (no throttle line disconnects, etc,)

What torque do the intake bolts need to be torqued to?
Anything else I am missing, should consider?

Whew, thats a long winded post

 

So anyone that has completed this job care to share any info?

 

I'd like to hear about this job also.


Nick
1985 F250 302 EFI

 

You can pick up a Haynes or chiltons Manual in your local autozone that has the torque specs in it. If you already are going to pull the upper intake might as well do the lower and replace the O rings on the injectors etc.

 

You shouldn't have to pull the lower intake...if it's not leaking, but it wouldn't hurt to clean everything up and replace all gaskets. Many gasket manufacturers sell a "top end" gasket kit or a "cam change" or "head change" gasket kit so you don't have to buy the gaskets individually or as a complete overhaul kit. I usually end up buying the complete overhaul kits when doing a head/cam change just so I have extra gaskets if needed.

As far as valve cover gaskets...they are usually the most prone to leaking. This can be caused by several things like a brittle or broken gasket, overtightening of valve cover bolts, or the gasket being pushed out or sucked in by a faulty ventilation system or PCV valve. I prefer to use the more expensive valve cover gaskets like the Fel-Pro Fel-CoPrene series.

If you do take the lower intake off, be sure to clean all gasket surfaces as good as possible, clean up all your bolts and use an anti-seize compound on all fasteners. At the parts store you can purchase a small can of gasket sealer, which is much better than any spray adhesive. Only apply it to one side though. As mentioned before, a Chilton/Haynes manual can provide all the torque spec & tightening sequences, but you can probably find that info online as well.

Good luck.

 

Thanks.

I am at a loss at to how far I want to go with this repair. Do i fix it all while I am there or risk tearing back into later due to a 25 year old gasket failing....

I am strapped for time so I might just push this repair back a few months and do it all, the correct way.



On a side note I am no longer throwing any codes but do have a slight ruff idle. After intial crank (cold) the truck revs up for a minute and sometimes when the idle settles back down shes wants to cut off. Seems to have a little hesitation at take off as well....
My biggest concern is that I was driving a 2007 f150 and now driving the 1986 and wondering how many "issues" with idling, etc are just characteristics of an old truck which I am not used to.

 

I have the same problem with my 1985 F150 302 EFI. I have been researching like you've been, and I found that the valve cover bolts should be torqued to 10-13 ft/lbs and then 2 min later retighten them to 10-13 ft/lbs. Those are the numbers I got for my year, I think they might be the same for yours. I plan on just replacing the valve cover gasket this time around even if I regret not digging deeper later.

 

You should verify your findings, I'll bet the specs you're quoting are inch pounds and not foot pounds for bitty little bolts like those.

You are also talking to somebody who asked around last Halloween, I think he's probably figured it out by now.

 

I found my numbers and procedure in my Chilton's manual and another site says 10 ft/lbs., but that's only up to and including 1984. I am just letting you all know what I've found for my 302. Thanks!