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My mom's 69 Impala had the flip down license plate. I used to think that was a bad place for a gas filler (what with a rearender), but it had a massive chrome bumper that was made out of the same metal they make skillets out of.
I remember back when GM used those flip down license plates. I used to think they were stupid also, at least until I discovered girls, or I guess I should say at least until I discovered girls putting fuel in their cars. It was hard to pay attention to your driving when some sweet young thing was bent way over trying to fill up her car....
John... you are da man !!! that's exactly what I was looking for... gonna call tomorrow and verify a few measurements... I have the Mustang tank out back and have to make sure I can squeeze it all in...
thanks man... and thanks to all with suggestions and ideas... THAT'S why I love this place !
john
John,
Thanks for starting this thread. It could help a number of us. I am looking at the same "hidden hitch" for my 49. Did you happen to get a height measurement, explicitly from the top of the hitch mounting flange where it mounts to the frame to the top of the receiver. I would call this the "drop" measurement. From the pictures it looks like about 2 inches.
EDIT: I called on the hidden hitch and the answer to my question was 1", close but not quite! I will keep looking.
John,
Thanks for starting this thread. It could help a number of us. I am looking at the same "hidden hitch" for my 49. Did you happen to get a height measurement, explicitly from the top of the hitch mounting flange where it mounts to the frame to the top of the receiver. I would call this the "drop" measurement. From the pictures it looks like about 2 inches.
EDIT: I called on the hidden hitch and the answer to my question was 1", close but not quite! I will keep looking.
Bill, got an email from etrailer.com and on the drawtite the distance from top of mounting flange to the top of the cross bar is 3", the hitch tube is mounted under that so I'd add another 3.5 or so to the center of the tube... This one won't work for me... the tube is too long... it is 7.75 inches long measuring from the front of the cross bar... I only have 4.5" max from the tank frame to the back side of the roll pan and that's if I move the tank forward as far as possible (more work)... the 'hidden hitch' offered by Early Classics has a much shorter tube... I'm waiting on an email with exact numbers... I'll post when I know something... I still might end up having to make something... I can buy the tube and have all the other metal on hand... it's just (again) more work
If the measurements of the Early classic hitch is not exactly what you need I believe they will modify for you. I'm pretty sure they do a lot of thier stuff in house.
John, Thank you for providing the measurements. My research let me to a Drawtite #5350 to get the drop in the 2+" range. This is an adjustable width hitch normally used on a motorhome. It comes in 3 pieces, 2 side pieces with pockets to insert the 2 1/2" cross truck square tube. You cut the tube to length. I had a discussion with the tech line at the manufacturer for Reese, Drawtite, Hidden hitch and others. My critical measurement is the total drop since I tucked my bumper higher and closer to the bed than stock. I have not pulled the trigger yet but am getting closer.
Just a thought for those considering making their own reciever hitch. Its well worth the money to buy the actual reciever tube.
Sure you can get a section of tubing anywhere but when you go and weld on the strengthening collar around the edge it warps it enough so that the stinger won't slide in easily.
Just a thought for those considering making their own reciever hitch. Its well worth the money to buy the actual reciever tube.
Sure you can get a section of tubing anywhere but when you go and weld on the strengthening collar around the edge it warps it enough so that the stinger won't slide in easily.
Bobby
That is good to know. I will be installing a hitch and will probably use the one I took off our mini-van, with necessary mods of course.
I have a hitch behind a stock-mounted rear bumper. We fabricated brackets so it would mount at the location we wanted. You can see pictures in my gallery here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=37087
that's a serious hitch... you've got more room with a bumper than with a roll pan.
I've got about 2.5" from from the back bar on the tank frame to the back of the tag box on the roll pan... not a lot of room... I think it fabrication time ! I found a hitch with a shorter tube that might work or might be 'adjusted'. Other priorities right now.
I'll take a pic of the back end to show my limitations. I can move the tank forward about 2" which might help...but that's something else that needs to be done and paint to screw up... hoping to do as little damage to the pretty frame as possible..
thanks for the suggestion I might want to get some dimensions from you later
I guess the hitch from Early Classic isn't going to work out for you John.
SORRY for the slow reply John... works been a killer... Early Classics never got back to me with dimensions... so it might work out... I'll try to email them again
this picture shows the delima... I can move the tank frame forward a little (2") but that's more stuff to screw up paint
picture tells the tale... pardon all the clutter and crap...
edit..... did another email to EC tech support... still no reply, did a little more measuring and find 4" between the bottom of the frame rail and the bottom of the tag box in the roll pan... so the mounts, cross bar and hitch tube have to fit in a 4" high space if the hitch bolts to the bottom of the rail... don't think that's gonna happen ! I think more and more that a fab mount is gonna do here... with a cross rail mounted inside the frame rails or snug up against it...and the receiver tube mounted to that. If it's snug up under it the actual mounting plates could be on the outside of the rail and substantial enough to handle anything... although the trailer I plan on pulling is just an old coke cooler rehabbed into a trailer..
sketched up what I think will be the answer... the hitch will have to wrap around the frame rails and tuck up under the frame rails tightly so the receiver will fit in the box opening
I'll also have to move the tank forward to allow enough length on the receiver tube to hold a hitch bar and get a pin in it...
that looks like it should work quite well..
A few words of advice:
I bought a used reciever hitch at a swap meet that was a bit bigger than I actually needed. I cut off the side brackets and used the main tube and reciever tube only. I fit it up to the frame rails and added 1/4" plates to each end that were bolted to the frame. Total cost was about $25. Sorry I dont have any pics, it was along time ago on a truck that has long since been scrapped.
As for the flip down plate bracket... GM used them on full size cars thru the late 90s... Caprice, Impala, Roadmaster, Fleetwood, 98 all had them, as did Gbodies ( Monte Carlo, Regal, Grand Prix and Cutlass ) thru 1988.
Do you have a buddy that works at a body shop? If so then they typically have used reciever hitches laying about. My buddy told me that the law says they have to replace the receiver hitch on any truck that has been smacked in the rear....wether the hitch has any damager or not.
It could be good source of a donor hitch to modify
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