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Fresh build thread :D

 
  #16  
Old 10-10-2011, 02:20 PM
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$70!! What a great deal. You're laughing. Use Mr.Gasket #260, and use high temp copper sealant around the exh. Unless it is an older Cliffy it has coolant hose bibs? If not, you can usually find a heating plate on ebay. They came off of 60's ford galaxies, IIRC. There is also one area on them you have to fill with epoxy to block vacuum, but you'll see it. Ck the Cliffy mating surface for true. I imagine you are using efi exh manies? That site I mentioned has grade 8 stud kits mailed for $40.

Of course you know a kit in the carb would be a good thing. Good luck. You didn't mention whether you are using the C.cams recomended v.springs for that cam. Each cam has a required seat pressure needed, and the machinist has to be certain to set it up correctly with the required
 
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:44 PM
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Glad you figured out the issue! Sometimes the simple things can bite you in the rear!
 
  #18  
Old 10-14-2011, 05:34 PM
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got the caps flipped XD

everything turns now, but with spark plugs in and a ratchet I can turn it... feel compression, but lots of blowby... just cuz the rings arent seated yet?
 
  #19  
Old 10-15-2011, 07:34 PM
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hey guys, quick question... forgot to check the pulley orientation on the power steering pump when I removed it... anyone know which way it goes, or have a pic I can look at?
 
  #20  
Old 10-15-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Grendelx View Post
hey guys, quick question... forgot to check the pulley orientation on the power steering pump when I removed it... anyone know which way it goes, or have a pic I can look at?
The center should be offset...Dished is a better way of explaining it....
 
  #21  
Old 10-15-2011, 08:08 PM
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The groove on the center boss of the PS pulley faces out.
 
  #22  
Old 10-17-2011, 10:17 AM
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awesome. thanks alot... its pretty much together now, just waiting for payday so I can buy a clutch... I'll put pics up soon
 
  #23  
Old 10-19-2011, 11:57 AM
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another question... didnt take pics when I pulled it apart, so I have no idea how/where the dipstick is supposed to attach to the block... not where it goes in, but the little support-arm thingy... it bolts to something, but no idea what... thinking I may have bent the tube while it was in storage... grrr....
 
  #24  
Old 10-19-2011, 02:14 PM
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Lifter cover bolt

EDIT: Scratch that, I see your dipstick tube goes through the actual pan and not the block.
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:31 PM
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My 78 F150 4x4's 300 dipstick tube bolts to the block between the oil pressure sending unit and the clutch linkage pivot ball boss.


 
  #26  
Old 10-21-2011, 11:32 AM
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Ahh, ok... yup, my tube got bent a little, wasn't wanting to line up with anything...

Another one I'd like a pic of, is the stock coil location... shoulda took more pics on dissasembly, but I didnt... need to figure out where all the extraneous crap goes....
*facepalm* um yeah... nvm on the coil location
 
  #27  
Old 10-21-2011, 06:28 PM
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What year was your engine?


Here's a pic of mine. Ignore the breather hose. The previous owner tried to convert it to a road draft tube.

My coil mount on the head where the arrow is pointing.

 
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:26 PM
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Not meaning to hijack this thread, but Fordman75, the snorkel on your air filter housing is like mine. As the hot air is brought in from the tubing on the bottom, is the door inside of the snorkel supposed to open as it heats up? I went for a good distance of driving the other night, checked mine and the door was still shut taking in the hot air from around the exhaust pipe instead of opening and taking in the ambient air of the engine bay. I don't think mine is working like it's supposed to...
 
  #29  
Old 10-21-2011, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SonofaFord View Post
Not meaning to hijack this thread, but Fordman75, the snorkel on your air filter housing is like mine. As the hot air is brought in from the tubing on the bottom, is the door inside of the snorkel supposed to open as it heats up? I went for a good distance of driving the other night, checked mine and the door was still shut taking in the hot air from around the exhaust pipe instead of opening and taking in the ambient air of the engine bay. I don't think mine is working like it's supposed to...



I believe it has a bi-metal spring that is suppose to open the door to the engine compartment once it reaches operating temp. Don't know if mine works either I haven't driven my truck more then 50 feet at a time.
 
  #30  
Old 10-22-2011, 01:59 PM
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Actually that's another thing I was gonna ask... is there a good reason to keep the pcv intact, or can I just throw a breather cap on it?
 

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