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I'm chasing a intermittent short in the cruise control on my 2001 F250 7.3 Powerstroke. Seems to be working ok right now
Well I found a bunch of goofy aftermarket wires around the gas pedal and the cruise control brake switch.
There was one wire cut into the gas pedal wiring.
Then there's another cut into the yellow/black wire on the brake cruise control switch. It goes to an aftermarket relay mounted above the HD fuse/relay box.
Then there's another relay that goes to the little motor/switch thats mounted on the turbo spider. (I can't figure what that gadget does or is) No info in the Haynes. But it looks like its now wired to nothing.
Whatever all these wires went to is gone. Any idea what I'm looking at?
It had four wires going to it. Red, Blue, Green and Black.
Ok next question. Now that I figured out the gadget in the EBPV solenoid.
Where do I find the end of the original solenoid wires that were removed?
Under the dash there are 4 wires that have been cut and are hanging there. These are factory wires out of the large harness.
But I should add that the truck runs great and gets great gas mileage. Accelerates like a raped ape.
If there aren't any switches then it may not be what i suspected...
There are a few different variants, but essentially it is a poor man's exhaust brake. I use it that way myself.
It works by taking advantage of the factory Exhaust Back Pressure Valve. It is there to assist with cold weather warm ups. The actuating solenoid is integrated into the turbo pedestal. the system works by providing power to the solenoid which actuates the exhaust backpressure valve hydraulically. On automatic trucks, the torque converter also needs to be locked to receive braking effect so most people wire a switch in the dash for these items. Some use a double pole double throw switch for a manual and automatic mode, the automatic mode is triggered by the brake light wire. The TC lock needs a relay since a ground signal is used to lock the TC instead of 12v.
There are some good write ups on guzzles page. Do you visit the 7.3 forum much?
There were two switches there. One of them was lit.
I thought one was broken and they just cut in a new one.
Kind of hillbilly I was thinking.
Now it makes more sense.
There were two switches there. One of them was lit.
I thought one was broken and they just cut in a new one.
Kind of hillbilly I was thinking.
Now it makes more sense.
Here is a write up showing how things are normally wired.
...
Under the dash there are 4 wires that have been cut and are hanging there. These are factory wires out of the large harness....
Those sound like the customer access wires. They are a group of 4 wires that pass through the firewall. You can find the other end of those wires under the hood near the hydroboost (master cylinder). Ford put them there so the customer would have some wires for whatever they wanted. Sounds like the previous owner didn't know about those or didn't want to use them.
There was a recall out on the CC, if I remember correctly, your truck might just be involved in that recall, you should contact the dealership and find out if your truck is included in it, if its already been done, or needs to be done. If not done, they have caught on fire. I only saw a handful out of pry a couple thousand that had the recall and were melted, but you never know, and it would cause some of them to have intermittent problems with the CC, recall number is 09s09
So those are just jumpers to get thru the fire wall?
They come out of that harness just above and to the right of the gas pedal?
Yes they are for adding accessories without making holes in the firewall! They are accessable in the engine compartment just to the left of the M/C
Jim & fat Monty
Looks like after I cleaned up the PO wiring mess. The cruise control is back in business. I disconnected the hack jump into the cruise control brake switch. Reconnected and heat shrinked the connection. Looks like it doesn't have the recall fused jumper. The other 3 that I've had done have had the blue band on them.
My biggest concern right now is the EBPV solenoid/regulator isn't hooked up to anything.That wiring goes to the abandoned and unpowered relays they had for their contraption.
I can't even figure out where it would have hooked to tell if the connection/connector is still there.
...
My biggest concern right now is the EBPV solenoid/regulator isn't hooked up to anything.That wiring goes to the abandoned and unpowered relays they had for their contraption.
I can't even figure out where it would have hooked to tell if the connection/connector is still there.
Here you go. This should help you figure it out. (see attached)
Sounds like you are making good progress in repairing the previous work.
You are looking at the device labeled EPR towards the lower left of the document.
The stuff on lower left corner are solenoids (stuff that does work).
The items listed across the top are sensors (stuff that measures)
You will see a device on the top labeled EBP, that is a sensor that can be found near the water pump pulley on the front of the engine. It's part of the same Exhaust Back Pressure system but it is not the device that controls the actual valve. The EPR (Exhaust Pressure Regulator) is located on the turbo pedestal and that might be what you are trying to hook back up.
Be advised, sometimes people disable the device by gutting the internals and installing a plug. It's more common than you think so you want to look to see if the rod is still in place. It is located under the turbo and can be viewed with a flashlight while looking from the direction of the GP relay.
Here are some photos of the rod that comes out of the EPR and operates the EBPV.
If your truck doesn't have this rod, then someone may have gutted the EPR.
Thats it. The Exhaust Pressure Regulator is the one that is currently hooked to nothing.
I wouldn't hook it up before I know if everything is in order.
Any idea where the wire harness from the EPR gets connected?
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