Warming up with egr delete?
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Raleigh, NC
Warming up with egr delete?
I was pondering today, that since my truck now has the egr delete can I let her warm up a little longer in the morning? I left the egr valve in place but I can put the block off on if I need to?
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From: knox Tn
These motors at low rpm's do what is called wet stacking , incomplete combustion meaning all the fuel doesn't burn ,and what doesn't can drain into crankcase . Do a high idle mod which runs at 1200 rpm's and no wet stacking. Look in tech folder on how to do it , its very simple wires already there just have to connect them.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
These motors at low rpm's do what is called wet stacking , incomplete combustion meaning all the fuel doesn't burn ,and what doesn't can drain into crankcase . Do a high idle mod which runs at 1200 rpm's and no wet stacking. Look in tech folder on how to do it , its very simple wires already there just have to connect them.
Another alternative is plugging in the block heater if you can. According to my electric bill it's cheaper than letting the truck run to warm up for extended periods. I know this isn't an alternative for everyone.
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From: Middleburg, FL
Just to add, EGR doesn't affect warm up time since EGR doesn't start flowing until the engine is already in the 180 ECT range. This based on what I've seen with with IAT/IAT1 differential and commanded EGR% as my truck has warmed up on the stock tune. As stated, main concern is with wet stacking and high idle mod will address that.
If you're not running 5W-40 syn, you might want to consider switching as that will help with injector performance on cold mornings.
By the way, I only warm up for 2-4 minutes depending on ambient temp and then take it easy (boost no more than 10 psi) until it's at full operating temp of 190 ECT.
If you're not running 5W-40 syn, you might want to consider switching as that will help with injector performance on cold mornings.
By the way, I only warm up for 2-4 minutes depending on ambient temp and then take it easy (boost no more than 10 psi) until it's at full operating temp of 190 ECT.
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From: Middleburg, FL
Ahhhh. Didn't even think about that SS. Thanks for pointing it out.
But other than that, I'm wondering why as well.
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From: Claremore, OK
Not the ones in the 6.0L; I wouldn't' say they're bullet proof...but they're not the part of the heating system that fails. That's usually the cord that goes to crap after the salt/road treatment takes it toll on the them. I'm with Tyler, I'm wondering what difference it makes if you unplug the truck before starting it. The block heater is only screwed into the side of the block...it isn't wired into any part of the truck's electrical system.