Trailer brake control
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Clearfield County, PA
Trailer brake control
I have a highboy that id like to convert to a 5 pin plug with trailer brakes. Can i simply go to a junkyard and pull a 5 pin socket, wire it in and buy an aftermarket trailer brake control in order to pull a tandem trailer and be able to equalize the brakes? Thanks for the help, im not to firmiliar with this subject.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
That's what I did.
'cept i got my 8pin/4pin combo at Tractor Supply. Etrailer would be another very good source.
Mine is a Camper Special, so all the wires were under the dash and ran to the back already, but for my exploder i just ran a 12awg wire to the back, and then a fused wire from the battery to the brake controller.
They suggest running the ground back to the battery, and i suppose that it best, but I just used a factory grounding lug and have not had a problem.
Solder all your connections and then heat shrink them with a dual core heatshrink tube the first time you do it, you will thank me later. You can crimp and tape if you like, but you'll be soldering and heatshrinking the in a year .... ask me how i know.
not to be a schill, but if your frame is 38 inches wide i have a brand new, never installed, hitch i need to sell.
'cept i got my 8pin/4pin combo at Tractor Supply. Etrailer would be another very good source.
Mine is a Camper Special, so all the wires were under the dash and ran to the back already, but for my exploder i just ran a 12awg wire to the back, and then a fused wire from the battery to the brake controller.
They suggest running the ground back to the battery, and i suppose that it best, but I just used a factory grounding lug and have not had a problem.
Solder all your connections and then heat shrink them with a dual core heatshrink tube the first time you do it, you will thank me later. You can crimp and tape if you like, but you'll be soldering and heatshrinking the in a year .... ask me how i know.
not to be a schill, but if your frame is 38 inches wide i have a brand new, never installed, hitch i need to sell.
Tuned
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 334
Likes: 41
I'd probably go for getting a new plug set to avoid having to deal with the corroded stuff that's probably at the junkyard. It's an easy wire in job. Unless your truck is a camper special, you'll have to run wires for the brakes, battery, and aux.
Also, you might really need a 7 pin plug rig
Also, you might really need a 7 pin plug rig
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Clearfield County, PA
I'd probably go for getting a new plug set to avoid having to deal with the corroded stuff that's probably at the junkyard. It's an easy wire in job. Unless your truck is a camper special, you'll have to run wires for the brakes, battery, and aux.
Also, you might really need a 7 pin plug rig
Also, you might really need a 7 pin plug rig
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Clearfield County, PA
That's what I did.
'cept i got my 8pin/4pin combo at Tractor Supply. Etrailer would be another very good source.
Mine is a Camper Special, so all the wires were under the dash and ran to the back already, but for my exploder i just ran a 12awg wire to the back, and then a fused wire from the battery to the brake controller.
They suggest running the ground back to the battery, and i suppose that it best, but I just used a factory grounding lug and have not had a problem.
Solder all your connections and then heat shrink them with a dual core heatshrink tube the first time you do it, you will thank me later. You can crimp and tape if you like, but you'll be soldering and heatshrinking the in a year .... ask me how i know.
not to be a schill, but if your frame is 38 inches wide i have a brand new, never installed, hitch i need to sell.
'cept i got my 8pin/4pin combo at Tractor Supply. Etrailer would be another very good source.
Mine is a Camper Special, so all the wires were under the dash and ran to the back already, but for my exploder i just ran a 12awg wire to the back, and then a fused wire from the battery to the brake controller.
They suggest running the ground back to the battery, and i suppose that it best, but I just used a factory grounding lug and have not had a problem.
Solder all your connections and then heat shrink them with a dual core heatshrink tube the first time you do it, you will thank me later. You can crimp and tape if you like, but you'll be soldering and heatshrinking the in a year .... ask me how i know.
not to be a schill, but if your frame is 38 inches wide i have a brand new, never installed, hitch i need to sell.
Tuned
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 334
Likes: 41
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
Many times the AUX is hooked up to the reverse lights to deactivate hydraulic trailer brakes on some boat trailers.
but you could use it for a vehicle specific purpose (strobe lights, non-switched battery source, flux capacitor)
but you could use it for a vehicle specific purpose (strobe lights, non-switched battery source, flux capacitor)
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Clearfield County, PA
That's what I did.
'cept i got my 8pin/4pin combo at Tractor Supply. Etrailer would be another very good source.
Mine is a Camper Special, so all the wires were under the dash and ran to the back already, but for my exploder i just ran a 12awg wire to the back, and then a fused wire from the battery to the brake controller.
They suggest running the ground back to the battery, and i suppose that it best, but I just used a factory grounding lug and have not had a problem.
Solder all your connections and then heat shrink them with a dual core heatshrink tube the first time you do it, you will thank me later. You can crimp and tape if you like, but you'll be soldering and heatshrinking the in a year .... ask me how i know.
not to be a schill, but if your frame is 38 inches wide i have a brand new, never installed, hitch i need to sell.
'cept i got my 8pin/4pin combo at Tractor Supply. Etrailer would be another very good source.
Mine is a Camper Special, so all the wires were under the dash and ran to the back already, but for my exploder i just ran a 12awg wire to the back, and then a fused wire from the battery to the brake controller.
They suggest running the ground back to the battery, and i suppose that it best, but I just used a factory grounding lug and have not had a problem.
Solder all your connections and then heat shrink them with a dual core heatshrink tube the first time you do it, you will thank me later. You can crimp and tape if you like, but you'll be soldering and heatshrinking the in a year .... ask me how i know.
not to be a schill, but if your frame is 38 inches wide i have a brand new, never installed, hitch i need to sell.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
If I may Hijack this thread momentarily, I assume you are talking about the AUX plug that has three terminals. I have been going through the harness in my truck, and the aux power terminal is not receiving power. So is this terminal supposed to have power all the time, or only when the key is on? If anyone has information on this particular circuit please chime in. Thanks.
Tuned
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 334
Likes: 41
No, this is related to the AUX pin that is in the 7 pin trailer wire connector that he is mounting at the rear of the truck.
What AUX plug are you refering to? I think you might be speaking about the yellow plug under the dash to the left of the steering column that has provision for three male bullet plug connectors. If so, you might want to check your fuses first. I'm not sure right now if this is switched power or always on.
What AUX plug are you refering to? I think you might be speaking about the yellow plug under the dash to the left of the steering column that has provision for three male bullet plug connectors. If so, you might want to check your fuses first. I'm not sure right now if this is switched power or always on.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
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From: New Albany, MS
<table class="tborder" align="center" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="1" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="thead" colspan="2">Today 07:48 PM</td> </tr> <tr title="Post 10885976" valign="top"> <td class="alt2" align="center" width="125">dethomson</td> <td class="alt1"> No, this is related to the AUX pin that is in the 7 pin trailer wire connector that he is mounting at the rear of the truck.
What AUX plug are you refering to? I think you might be speaking about the yellow plug under the dash to the left of the steering column that has provision for three male bullet plug connectors. If so, you might want to check your fuses first. I'm not sure right now if this is switched power or always on. </td></tr></tbody></table>
What AUX plug are you refering to? I think you might be speaking about the yellow plug under the dash to the left of the steering column that has provision for three male bullet plug connectors. If so, you might want to check your fuses first. I'm not sure right now if this is switched power or always on. </td></tr></tbody></table>
That was the one I was referring to, I was just wondering whether it had constant power, or only power when the key is own. Anyway I guess it wouldn't be to hard to trace.. I may do that this weekend.
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,513
Likes: 669
From: Sioux Falls Area
Then of course i had to tap into the brake on/off switch and then run a wire to the 7-way plug.
Check your brake controller instructions for the fusing requirements. 20amp was right for mine, yours could be different.