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FICM Voltage Question

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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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Exclamation FICM Voltage Question

My Question is, when I test the FICM, with the key on but not running I have propper voltage, but with the truck running I only have 26 volts. should I have 48 volts with the truck running? This is cold start when the engine isn't warm and it's on lil brothers truck which is an 06 and it has the 4 screw Ficm.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Your FICM is bad it should have 48 volts or close at all times
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Your FICM is bad it should have 48 volts or close at all times
What he said he knows his 6.0's!!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 11:10 PM
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HV FICM MOD & SEAFOAM

ok. I understand the FICM voltage should be 46-48v at all times. This is clear, although nobody has reported the FICM voltages while driving, only pre-start, starting, and idling.

So I hooked up my autoenginuity scanner with laptop to the my 2003 F350 6.0l (modified) today, and found that the FICM voltage sits at 46V at idle, but when I open it up a bit (not quite WOT), by 3,000 rpms, the voltage is down to 40V. I've not seen it drop below 40V, but the autoenginuity says that 40V is the minimum. So I am wondering if it would read lower than that (if the voltage is actually down to 28V or whatever), or is the voltage actually sitting at 40?

I have never had any of the so-called FICM issues. But I did buy a 2"x1" blue LED voltage readout, that I plan on wiring to the FICM, so that I can have a live readout in the cab at all times. It is a 0-100VDC meter, so it will work if/when I do the HV FICM mod.

Also, I have read about the 58V mod (swamps). I have an extensive electrical background (and have detailed instructions to make many mods to the FICM internals), and considered cracking mine and replacing the resistors and FET's, etc, to provide the 58V to the injectors.

On this forum, I have read of some very skeptical people, regarding potential damage to the injectors down the road with this high voltage mod. Any insight or concerns?

(ON A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SUBJECT: I tried the Seafoam in the fuel filter bowl a few times, and I think it cleaned the injectors a bit. I also used it in the oil, before changing it, then changed to some Walmart dyno oil, added the seafoam, ran it 30 minutes, then changed the filters and the oil to the synthetic T6. I did pull a light trailer for 200 miles and saw a 1mpg improvement. Maybe nothing, but........I'll keep checking the mpg over time and see if it remains at a 1mpg betterment.).
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 11:21 PM
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I have notied my FICM maintains 47.5-48.5 volts at ALL times even WOT

sounds like your FICM is slowly starting to fail

Id get it fixed before it starts taking out injectors

FWIW Im not a 58volt Fan at all
it gets hotter and you lose reliability plus the injectors were only designed for 48 volt
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 11:58 PM
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BLADE35, thanks for the update. I've been looking around for a reman FICM the past few weeks. Sounds like I had better get on it quick. I've been reading lots about Ford reman's not being quite up to spec, and there are a few aftermarket ones around. Any ideas?

Also, can I replace the 7 screw with the newer 4 screw FICM? I have heard they are swappable; with the 4 screw having updates made by ford.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 06:31 AM
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You should NOT use seafoam in your diesel because of the alcohol content:
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:45 AM
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Thanks. I couldn't find anything good about alcohol added to our 6.0L's. It appears alcohol is NOT good. I will stay away from it from now on.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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[QUOTE=figurhead;10900931]BLADE35, thanks for the update. I've been looking around for a reman FICM the past few weeks. Sounds like I had better get on it quick. I've been reading lots about Ford reman's not being quite up to spec, and there are a few aftermarket ones around. Any ideas?
My 03 had a 7 screw in it that went bad and I replaced mine with a 4 screw. So yea they are interchangeable i had to get mine flashed to get rid of the code. " I didn't have to truck ran fine but I didn't want the code on my truck"
Also, can I replace the 7 screw with the newer 4 screw FICM? I have heard they are swappable; with the 4 screw having updates made by ford.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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I don't know why that last post done that. But what I said was my 03 had a 7 screw and I replaced it with a 4 screw truck ran fine but I had a code an had to have it flashed to clear the code that will be up to you on flashing to get rid of the code. I didn't want the code so that's the way I went. But to anwser your question they are interchangeable
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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Thanks. I had heard that they WERE interchangeable, and you have validated that fact. I think I may pull it and re-solder all the joints with a nice leaded solder at work where I have a professional solder station, and lots of old leaded rosin flux solder. I'll then check the voltage while running it and see if it helps out. I will shortly be able to monitor the FICM voltage live in the cab. I have also ordered the FICM flash, which I will do next month, or so, depending if I can get this one to be more robust.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 12:58 AM
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I just pulled the FICM. I let the engine cool for an hour after work, drained a gallon of coolant, removed the coolant tank above the FICM, then removed the FICM. It took about 10 minutes.

I cracked open the FICM, and found a FET completely burned. Everything else looks fine. I called a guy on Craigslist who has some repaired ones, with new FETS and caps, etc. SO I'll get a new one in a few days. Since it was 10pm, I put the old one back together, and started the truck up. All good. The FICM starts out at 40V, then as the truck warms up, the voltage runs from 40-47.5V. Not good, but better than 20V, or dead.

I'll get this rebuilt one, re-tune it, and then monitor it for a while with the Autoengenuity. I plan to fix my old one with new FETs, caps, etc, then re-tune them both with gopowerhungry's non-inductive tune. If I can get my original one fixed, I can sell one of them.

I also ordered the blue spring upgrade from partsguyed.com. I had installed a small screw in the end of my spring to get the fuel pressure to 60psi. BUt I like the idea of the blue spring and 70psi.

I have a stage 1 aFe that the first owner installed, but I got a good deal on the new style aFe Stage 2 with 7 later filter. SO that's going in, too. It makes it a lot easier to check and/or replace the filter. I have been monitoring both intake temps (pre and post turbo) twice a day. WHen the Stage 2 is installed, I will see if the new air filter does anything to change the temperatures, for better or worse.

I'll post an update then.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 06:28 AM
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FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair is a great place to get your FICM repaired at a great price and he knows WTF he's doing.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:02 AM
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Partsman FICMREPAIR did send me a working ficm and i bought a 2 year warrenty .But when i got it no paper work i have no record of this sale hell i can't write this off , and no i haven't called him about this but it should have been shipped with ficm
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by wulfman
Partsman FICMREPAIR did send me a working ficm and i bought a 2 year warrenty .But when i got it no paper work i have no record of this sale hell i can't write this off , and no i haven't called him about this but it should have been shipped with ficm
I bet if you shoot Ed an email he'll probably be able to get it right to you.
 
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