No line, there's a small piston in there is there not? It's a vacume break, and in operation it creats just enough pull to draw through the tube.

Or am I recalling a different carb?

Anyways ......

When wiring electric chokes, I went to the alternator so it only works when engine is actually running, not when accessory is on, not when key is simply on ... but only when the alternator is putting out.

That has a strange ring of familiarity about it!

 

Don't you want the choke operative before the engine fires? Or does the choke snap shut when you pump the gas before starting...

Mine's never worked, so I'm not entirely sure what the order of operation should be.

Thanks again for the help.

-MK

 

It will shut when you pump the gas before starting. The electric current or hot air depending on type of choke is what opens it.

 

Gotcha thanks.

 

I know this is probably too late...but I had the same issue with 79' 400M. I installed a manual choke in about 20 minutes. It was cheap, easy to install, and now I know where the choke position is all the time. Works great, I love it!!!

 

I installed a manual choke about 6mos ago, and was really not pleased with the kit I got. It consisted of ****ty quality parts, and the actuation of the choke was inconsisent. I couldn't get it adjusted to where it opened and closed smootly. When I wanted to open the choke all the way after the truck warmed up, I'd have to yank the **** all the way out and slam it back in. Probably has to do with the flex in the line going around corners, but I could never get mine adjusted where I wanted it. It was a quick and dirty solution, but now that I've got the carb out and apart and the weather isn't too bad, I'd like to fix it right.

Worse comes to worse and I'll try and work with the manual choke some more if the electric one doesnt work.

-MK

 

For your new electric choke it should tell you what to use for power source. Old factory electrics came off the stator of alt/reg and was a lower voltage,7-8v. New carbs such as Holley and Edelbrock specify full switched 12v. The original "stovepipe" choke was called that for a reason. Just like a wood burning stove, when hot air rises, it pulls air in at the bottom. The insulated tube running to choke was connected to manifold as mentioned with a filter material inside the cast chamber(usually clogged), drawing air in thru a second tube in the bottom. Most long gone. In front of the choke housing was a plate to restrict air flow crossing the choke housing preventing it from cooling too much and reactivating choke. Just plain old school technology. All suggestions mentioned will work.

 

So if I convert to electric choke, should I put a cap on the threded port for the choke stove tube?

-MK

 

Should have no effect if a true electric choke. Get it working and then cap it off to see if it makes any diff. May keep dust and crap out of choke assembly.

 

Cool. Didin't know whether or not the air getting in there would cool the bi-metal spring and effectively cause it to operate differently.

Probably not an issue...

 

So I was reading through the choke setup portion of the rebuild instructions, and it talks about re-installing your choke pull-off. I don't have a choke pull-off. Forgive my ignorance, but will my electric choke function properly without a pull-off?

Thanks again guys,

-MK

 

It may be internal to the choke housing. Install the electric choke, let it close fully, crank the engine then immediately look and see if the choke has opened a little. If it has then you have an internal pull off.