Its a 2000 5.4 xlt supercrew flareside 4x4 , for some reason the passenger side manifold was twice as rusty as the drivers, the headers bolted right up didnt have to move the y pipe at all

 

Sounds good!
Oh, and your truck is a super-cab. Not a supercrew.
Supercrew never came in a flareside.

 

woops your right i dont why i put crew

 

Sounds great KB, thanks for posting!

 

I am having to replace the manifolds on my 98 4.6 as they have both rusted out. I started on the passenger side. I can get a socket on the nuts but they are pretty well shot and I have resigned myself to the fact that I have to cut them off.

I have pretty much everything I need (rotozip with cutoff wheel, die grinders, etc) to cut the studs off. The one thing I am really wondering about though is how the heck to get at the bottom studs.

 

The only way is to use that 90 degree grinder as pictured. It's cramped in there but can be done.

 

Working blind, that should be fun!

Thanks for the reply.

 

Did you already read this thread?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

 

I've got the same chore. I bought the JBA SS Titanium coated shorties with supplied graphite gaskets. They claim a 10 - 20 hp gain and a 1-3 mpg increase. I live up here in rust country to, Northern MN. They use a hell of a lot of salt here and it make steel disappear. The nuts are not even discernible, just a worn down rusted stub. I will be happy with half of what's advertised and will use Stage 8 SS fasteners with locks if they still make them, maybe ARP has them. Ford did offer a special set of SS studs, not sure if they're available anymore. Glad I saw the cut and weld method first, I'll go that route and hopefully won't have any break off flush with the head, That will be a PITA.

 

Hey kb I posted a thread in this same section. I just picked up a 2002 f150 an the stud behind the start on top has broken off inside the head. So how do I take that out without causing damage to the head ? Please help me as to what tools I need an how to go about doing this. I don't have a welder to weld a nut on or anything so what do I need to get this done safely without having to take the head off an cashing damage to the stud broken inside the head. Please help me out.

 

An to be honest I don't want to have to take off the whole manifold to replace 1 bolt for an exhaust leak. So what tool can I use then to get that bolt out

 

Do you have pictures of the broken stud? Is it flush with the manifold or Flush with the head?

 

No I do not have pictures. An the stud is inside the head like flush in the head.

 

Well thats a pickle, of course the right way would be to remove the manifold and drill it or weld a bolt to it, but if you dont want to do that and just looking to tighten up that top port ,if that is where your only leak is, and dont care much about the other studs and the longevity of the truck thats another issue

If it were me I would get the right drill bit and and a drill that will fit in there straight, mark the drill bit with yellow paint marker or bright tape or something and measure the depth of the manifold and about 1/2 inch more into the head,and mark the bit,so you know where to stop and drill the stud , tap it and run a bolt into it, the hole in the manifold is slightly bigger than the stud so just get a bit the size of the stud and drill with caution , thats what I would do anyways if I was in that spot

 

At this point I just want this leak gone so I can drive the truck without it sounding like crap. I just picked it up an the guy said the donut was the leak an it's not so now I'm Ina bigger hole cause I just bought the truck an now i have this issue.