Hello. I have an 86 F150 that I'm having some wiper issues with. Earlier this summer, my original 2 speed wiper switch finally died. I have an 87 sitting around for parts and it had the intermittent wiper switch in it. I swapped the intermittent switch and brainbox to my 86. It worked fine for most of the summer until a couple of weeks ago. It started not working on the low speed position and then wouldn't work in the intermittent position. It now only works on the high speed. I was guessing that maybe the switch was getting old and tired so I disassembled the switch to clean and look at the contacts. The contacts all looked pretty good to me. I cleaned and relubed the switch with some dielectric grease and put it back together. I installed it and it still only works on high. Sooo... what do you guys think??? Should I replace the switch?? Is it the brainbox??? If there is a chance of it being the brainbox, I will just switch back to a 2 speed switch as I have another good one on hand. But.... the intermittent sure is nice... What do you guys think? Is it the switch or brainbox???

Ben

 

There is a chance it's the governor (black box) and there's also a chance it's the motor, so disconnect the interval stuff and put your original switch in place and see what happens.

There are at least 11 pages of wiper system diagnosis in the Ford shop manual, I'm not gonna type all of that, should be able to look at it more closely over the weekend and post some more if needed.

 

I put on a original 2 speed switch and everything works like it should.

Ben

 

The solder joints inside the governor tend to crack and you will be left with high speed only.
This can usually be repaired.
Seems to stem from the fact that every time you release the parking brake that the box is mounted to it receives a jolt.
I left the bracket off mine, wrapped it in foam rubber and ziptied it up behind the fuse panel.
Haven't had any trouble since then.

 

So THAT's why I sometimes see the things wrapped in foam!

I remember 81-F-150-Explorer telling us this, I just looked it up and verified but I nevertheless can't imagine anybody in real life is gonna do it....

The Owner's Manual lists a procedure for releasing the parking brake, it has one depressing the pedal with their left foot while pulling the release handle, then lift your foot from the parking brake pedal, the implication being the pedal is gently released.

 

There is a label on the outside of the E9TZ-17C476-A governor assembly (AKA Motorcraft SW-2259) that says "Do Not Drop"
This has the engineering # F0TF-17C476-AA

I didn't re-attach it because
A) it is such a PITA to get to that screw.
B) There is a TSB suggesting not to.

 

You guys are spot on, the governor basically interupts the low speed circuit with a relay. First failure is no intermittant, then no low. Probably just replacing the governor will fix it. As far as I know, the same one works from 80-91, after 91 the whole system changed.

 

Well, I'm guessing that there is a good chance the solder joints have cracked. The pickup never sees pavement and for the last 3 months or so, our county road has been absolutely horrible. We have washboards that are a good three and even four inches deep in many places. They just shake the hell outa everything. I'm guessing all this beating has taken its toll. I'll maybe see if I can take the thing apart and solder it. If I get it fixed I'll do the wrap it in foam thing.

Thanks!
Ben

 

Bill,
The thing is Damn expensive!
Replacement will (obviously) fix it.
But ten minutes with a soldering gun will fix it (in most cases) for free.

 

Jim, I usually leave the choice of trying to resolder up to the individual. A lot of really good mechanics are scared to death of working on electrical stuff, me, I do it all the time.

 

So.. I've decided to try and solder and fix this thing. I've got a ? for someone that has fixed one of these. How do you get the case open? Mine looks like the lid is glued on. I was thinking of carefully prying it apart? What have you all done??
Ben

 

Ben, look for the seam where it's glued (hint it runs across the wire openings) and carefully pry the cas apart. Hopefully you will be able to see where it has come unsoldered. If in doubt just heat each connection carefully so you don't damage the board. Maybe someone else has some pictures, I have never had to repair any of mine. Once you finish, I would suggest you plug it back in and try it. The relay should close and stay closed in low, close briefly and open for intermittant.

 

Doing things with the wife today.
I'll try and open up my spare and take some pics later...

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6226849329/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6226849329/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6227370196/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6227370196/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

On the rear of the governor is a metal strut secured by two 7/32" headed screws.
These also hold the box together.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6226865021/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6226865021/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

Removing those screws allows the box to open and you will see the back side of the board with the broken joints.
Filp it over and you can see the heatsink where the damaged solder is attached.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6226877821/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6226877821/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

 

Okay guys, I got my box opened up. Looked things over and found that an aluminum heat sink like thing has come loose. Its still somewhat attached to the board but the solder joints are broke. I'll try soldering the thing and let you know the results.

Thanks!
Ben