Hi all,

I tried a search, but couldn't find what I was looking for, so I thought I might as well ask you guys.

A buddy of mine has an '87 Bronco with the 302 V8 and an auto trans. He has been having problems with poor idle, lack of power, and stalling when shifted from Park to Drive. He figured the issues were timing related and has been monkeying around with his distributor for a while now to no good effect.

While there might be a legitimate timing issue involved, I think there is something else going on as well.

Any ideas, suggestions, tips, or pointers you might mind throwing my way?

Thanks in advance.

 

Check for codes, those signals point to a bad IAC or TPS. Tell him not to mess with the stop screw of the throttle. And he probably hasn't disconnected the SPOUT when messing with the dist. am i right?, that would mean no matter what he did, no change to the timing took place.

 

^^^+1 what Encho said. until we now what the Computer is saying we really can only speculate.

 

Base timing will still be affected if you move the dizzy even if the SPOUT is still connected. The SERIOUS PROBLEM with attempting to set base timing this way is that it will NEVER work and the timing WILL be wrong. The engine MUST be at normal operating temperature BEFORE you do anything to correct base timing (critical).

To set base timing:

1) run the truck for about ten minutes (longer in extremely cold weather) or until the engine reaches its normal operating temperature.

2) shut the engine off and disconnect/remove the SPOUT (SPark OUTput) shunt (small grey connector. DON'T LOSE IT! You will find it in the PINK (YELLOW/GREEN on very early models) wire running between the distributor and the ICM (Integrated Circuit Module... small grey plastic block attached to the side of the distributor casting on models up through mid 1991*).

3) connect a timing light, loosen the distributor clamp bolt just enough that you can turn the distributor by hand. (Too tight and you won't be able to move it... too loose and it won't stay put while you reach in and shut off the engine). In some cases you may find the timing does not need to be reset.

4) re-start the engine and observe the timing marks with the light. Typical base timing for the 5.0 (302) in these trucks is 8-10º BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). Some folks will tell you that you will feel a little better throttle response between 11º and 12º. (Personally, I've never seen any better "umph" running anything above about 11º BTDC).

5) IF the base timing needs to be reset, turn the distributor clockwise to ADVANCE timing and counter-clockwise to RETARD timing. Once base timing is set, shut the engine off, tighten down the distributor clamp bolt, REPLACE THE SPOUT CONNECTOR, disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes (this clears any fault Codes generated by the lack of spark timing signal from the ICM while the engine was run previously), then reconnect and re-start the engine.

I know there is a LOT of very basic "newbie" info detailed here but I figured if I'm gonna give instructions, I might as well make them understandable to more than just the "gearheads" who hang out here all the time. If you already know how to set base timing in these trucks you aren't gonna need to read this anyway.

*in mid-1991 Ford began mounting the ICM in a huge heat sink on the driver's inner fender between the hood spring and the power distribution box. Heat-related failure of the ICM was the primary reason. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT NOTE: If the ICM in your truck is BLACK... NEVER replace it with a grey one or vice-versa.