Yup - I just finished replacing my upper control arm bushings, so I thought I'd throw in my two cents on this job.
Taking out the old bushings, when they are rusted into the brackets takes time. I found that the easiest way was this; cut off excess rubber bushing on outer side (the thicker one), so you expose the inner metal sleeve; punch an awl through what's left off the rubber about 15 times all around, and lever the awl from side to side when removing it, so it rips up the rubber; grab that inner sleeve with a visegrip and twist the sleeve out, then remove the rubber bushing; assemble a hacksaw inside the outer sleeve and carefully cut the sleeve in several places (don't cut into the bracket); punch the outer sleeve inwards away from the bracket and knock it out.
The only problem I had with pressing in the new bushings was getting them started; but once you've lined them up, they pressed nicely into place. I used a bench vise and three cups I customized from pipe ends (1 1/4''). I ground out the threads (1st 3/8") from one, so it would slip nicely over the new bushing. One of the receiving cups, I cut at a slant so it would compensate for the angle on the rear brackets.
After a test drive, I've noticed a tighter and solid feel to the front end from the new upper ball joints and bushings. An annoying vibration/droning noise I had at around 50 mph has almost disappeared; I still need to replace my steering rack (leak and worn inner tie rod).
Thanks for all the advise on this forum; most of the methods above were from threads written before and they were instrumental in getting the job done.

Cheers, Mike

 

Mike,

I used a carpenter's tool called "cats-claw", basically a small pry bar to collapsed the outer shell of the bushings to remove them. I placed the points of the 90 degree end against the part of the shell sticking out, and pounded it with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Of course it dulled to points of the claw part, but I just sharpened them with a grinder before I had to use them again as a nail puller.

I have some pictures on my picasaweb site showing how I pressed the new bushings into the frame mounts:

Picasa Web Albums - Eugene Chu - Aerostar

I bought large sockets to do this, but I should have thought of plumbing hardware, as they would have been a lot cheaper. But I'm about to do a rear main seal on another car, and I will be getting plumbing hardware to make tools for that.

 

Ya - I didn't want to spend $20 for large sockets I'd probably never use; the pipe ends cost $3 and I could customize them to what I specifically needed. I've seen your photos and they were a great help in visualizing the job. I have a "cats-claw" too; but by cutting into the outer shell of the bushing, I could punch it in easily with a cold chisel. I spent the savings on pizza and Anchor Porter beer, which my local store just brought in. In these tough fiscal times, you gotta make responsible choices.

Cheers, Mike

 

Nice job on the driveshaft boot. I saw it in your pic's...

Dick