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1992 Explorer 4.0 No Spark No Fuel

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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #1  
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1992 Explorer 4.0 No Spark No Fuel

VEHICLE: 1992 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4wd Automatic, CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS w/ 59,000 Miles...

PROBLEM: Engine rolls over great, BUT No Spark, No Fuel

Here are the tests I've done:
- Each and every relay √
- Each and every fuse √
- Ensure inertia switch hadn't popped √
- Directly connect 12 volts to pump & pump came on √
- By-pass inertia switch √
- Replace PCM √

Any other ideas? I'm thinking it's time to start checking grounds and chasing wires
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Time to look at the wiring. In particular, I would carefully check the PCM power circuit. PCM power feeds the fuel pump relay, the ICM (which controls spark), and the PCM, which commands the fuel pump relay to close and controls the timing advance. A no start due to lack of fuel and spark is often related to that power circuit.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mrshorty
Time to look at the wiring. In particular, I would carefully check the PCM power circuit. PCM power feeds the fuel pump relay, the ICM (which controls spark), and the PCM, which commands the fuel pump relay to close and controls the timing advance. A no start due to lack of fuel and spark is often related to that power circuit.
I was thinking about tracing these wires to start

 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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Does the 1992 Explorer use a Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor? If so, a bad CKP sensor or one with too large a gap could explain the lack of spark and injector pulse width. Do you have fuel pressure just no injector pulse, or no fuel pressure? If no fuel pressure, does the bulb test work when the key is turned to "Run", particularly the "Check Engine" light? Have you tried connecting a Ford EEC scan tool to the truck to see if there are any KOEO codes?

-Rod
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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Those grounds could be a good start. I would also test "vehicle power" from the EEC relay.

shorod makes a good point about the bulb test -- does the CEL come on KOEO? Pulling codes can also be useful.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 01:05 AM
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Its been a loooong time since I was under the hood of a 92, but if I recall correctly there were several wires (large/small) connected to the battery. One of the smaller ones powers the PCM,,, the green monster creeps inside the wire casing and devours the copper..... Philip
 
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 02:07 AM
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cam or crank sensor would be my guess
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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When I turn the key on the check engine light doesn't even illuminate and I get no reading when I connect the scanner to the PCM; however I did try a re manufactured PCM from autozone and still have got no spark or fuel (the low pressure pump doesn't even come on)
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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KOEO, the CEL is supposed to come on to indicate that the PCM is getting power and is ready. The CEL staying off is further evidence to me that you need to check the PCM power circuit.

on edit: Up to this point, I have assumed that you've included the EEC relay and the EEC fuse when you say that you've tested each and every relay and fuse. I'm going to drop that assumption and ask if you've verified these two components. It seems that the most common failure spot in the PCM power circuit is the relay. At this point, if you can't state with absolute certainty that there is power to that relay, that the relay is closing (KOEO), and that there is power coming out of that relay, then that is where I would suggest you start.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mrshorty
KOEO, the CEL is supposed to come on to indicate that the PCM is getting power and is ready. The CEL staying off is further evidence to me that you need to check the PCM power circuit.
Check the wire coming from the EEC relay going to the ECU it's self & coming from the power distribution box to the EEC relay? Sounds plausible I'll take a look
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mrshorty
KOEO, the CEL is supposed to come on to indicate that the PCM is getting power and is ready. The CEL staying off is further evidence to me that you need to check the PCM power circuit.

on edit: Up to this point, I have assumed that you've included the EEC relay and the EEC fuse when you say that you've tested each and every relay and fuse. I'm going to drop that assumption and ask if you've verified these two components. It seems that the most common failure spot in the PCM power circuit is the relay. At this point, if you can't state with absolute certainty that there is power to that relay, that the relay is closing (KOEO), and that there is power coming out of that relay, then that is where I would suggest you start.
Okay I'll look there I did indeed test that relay (using a jump wire with an inline fused connected to 12 - 14 volts while testing for resistance with a multimeter)
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Alright so I've got power going to the yellow wire where it comes into the connector next to the battery (later leads to the ECU), but do not have power at the EEC relay... this means I have to dig into the harness to find the troubles? damn the bad luck
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Yellow wire should be hot at all times, so it's good that you have power there. None of the other leads has power? The red/lt green lead coming from the ignition switch should have power with the key on. If you don't have power there, I'd probably go back to the ignition switch and make sure it is closing right.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mrshorty
Yellow wire should be hot at all times, so it's good that you have power there. None of the other leads has power? The red/lt green lead coming from the ignition switch should have power with the key on. If you don't have power there, I'd probably go back to the ignition switch and make sure it is closing right.
Not sure didn't test those ones, its pouring rain out side today so when it stops if it does I'll take a look again.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mrshorty
Yellow wire should be hot at all times, so it's good that you have power there. None of the other leads has power? The red/lt green lead coming from the ignition switch should have power with the key on. If you don't have power there, I'd probably go back to the ignition switch and make sure it is closing right.
Sorry for the delayed reply its tough with bad weather and a full time job. I've got 12 volts at the red/green wire with the ignition switch on.
 

Last edited by FSeriesGuy04; Oct 5, 2011 at 12:49 PM. Reason: Typo
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