Check Coolant Additive
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 266
Likes: 1
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Check Coolant Additive
Today with 14,225.0 miles on the odometer I received a warning in the info center which said: "Check Coolant Additive".
I roger'ed that and carried on home where I pulled out the book to see just WTF it is supposed to mean. What it means is I am supposed to purchase 2 testing kits and do some chemistry experiments.
Also, I found out the warning was supposed to come at 15,000 miles when the check is due so I guess mine got a little over excited and just couldn't wait to tell me.
So, anybody done this check yet? How much do those kits cost? Can I get them somewhere besides the dealer?
And when all that is done, how do I make the warning go away? It is still there in the System Information section.
I roger'ed that and carried on home where I pulled out the book to see just WTF it is supposed to mean. What it means is I am supposed to purchase 2 testing kits and do some chemistry experiments.
Also, I found out the warning was supposed to come at 15,000 miles when the check is due so I guess mine got a little over excited and just couldn't wait to tell me.
So, anybody done this check yet? How much do those kits cost? Can I get them somewhere besides the dealer?
And when all that is done, how do I make the warning go away? It is still there in the System Information section.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,600
Likes: 83
It will warn based on usage.
If you tow a lot, I've seen others report the message in the 13,000 mile range.
Best thing is to take it to your dealer but it's not something you have to rush out and do at 8 AM in the morning.
Otherwise, check out this post by lexustbs.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10302454
There is a reset process but I have the basic information center so I'm not much help.
The basic info center doesn't even warn for this.
If you tow a lot, I've seen others report the message in the 13,000 mile range.
Best thing is to take it to your dealer but it's not something you have to rush out and do at 8 AM in the morning.
Otherwise, check out this post by lexustbs.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10302454
There is a reset process but I have the basic information center so I'm not much help.
The basic info center doesn't even warn for this.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 35
From: North of Salt Lake City
Thanks for the procedures. Where did you draw the samples from on the primary and secondary systems?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,302
Likes: 1,153
From: Edmonton Alberta
The first time I took them from the bottles and they both passed the tests. I was not sure if you were supposed to sample from the bottles or not and the workshop manual doesn't say anything. And I still don't know.
A couple weeks later I repeated the test with samples from the pet***** and had the same result (both passed). Makes more sense (I guess) to sample from the pet*****. It is really easy to get a sample from the secondary petcock. The primary is very difficult without taking off the bumper (if anyone has figured out an easy way please let me know!!).
I attached both procedures only because you add a different amount of re vitalizer to each system, otherwise the procedures are identical.
Thanks
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New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
FWIW i had mine tested at my selling dealer Monday due to the check coolant message at 14600 miles, it passed, they made a work order on it to document it, and did not charge me for it. I watched the tech sample it, he said it passed and he has never seen one fail. I offered to pay just to get it into the system but they said they did not charge for it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,302
Likes: 1,153
From: Edmonton Alberta
FWIW i had mine tested at my selling dealer Monday due to the check coolant message at 14600 miles, it passed, they made a work order on it to document it, and did not charge me for it. I watched the tech sample it, he said it passed and he has never seen one fail. I offered to pay just to get it into the system but they said they did not charge for it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 35
From: North of Salt Lake City
PaintedHorse and I just finished our little chemistry lab exercise and tested both our trucks. It's quite a process. The worst part is as Darren above said was just getting to the petcock on the secondary radiator. It is in just the exact position that makes it difficult. The bottom line after the testing was both trucks passed all tests but showed some contamination in the primary system. The remedy is to add revitalizer to that radiator.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,219
Likes: 4,223
From: Kaysville Utah
Epic was kind enough to share his test strips and test kit. He and I pulled the samples from the drain*****. I had to throw away the first ounce or two coolant that came out, because it flushed dirt/dust from the draincock. All that stuff that has splashed up into the draincock over 30,000 miles.
We found
No nitrates
Glycol percentage was 60% or good to , -58°F
Reserve Alkalinity was OK
Contamination or CorrosionInhibitor was questionable.
Orange engine Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 into Coolant. So I guess I'll stop by the dealer and see if they have started stocking that stuff yet.
For those who may try this in the future. The Pet*****. Turn 90° with no fluid showing and then they cam out as you continue turning. They achieve full flow at 180°. Somewhere between 110° and 180° you will have coolant flowing. They take a little more pressure than you can comfortable do with your fingers. So find a small wrench or pliers to help turn the valve.
We found
No nitrates
Glycol percentage was 60% or good to , -58°F
Reserve Alkalinity was OK
Contamination or CorrosionInhibitor was questionable.
Orange engine Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 into Coolant. So I guess I'll stop by the dealer and see if they have started stocking that stuff yet.
For those who may try this in the future. The Pet*****. Turn 90° with no fluid showing and then they cam out as you continue turning. They achieve full flow at 180°. Somewhere between 110° and 180° you will have coolant flowing. They take a little more pressure than you can comfortable do with your fingers. So find a small wrench or pliers to help turn the valve.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,302
Likes: 1,153
From: Edmonton Alberta
This makes me wonder if your dealer even did the "check the corrosion inhibitor" or part 2 of the test. You need to take coolant OUT to do the rotunda 328-00008 part of the test.
The reason I bring this up is because I had my dealer do the test as well. When I asked him what he did he called the tech and they told me the same, we dipped the rotunda 328-00001 strips in the bottles and it passed. When I asked him about the corrosion inhibitor test he looked at me like I was an idiot and said "you don't know what you are talking about". That is why I started doing it myself.
I have just learned that my dealer was recently "trained" how to do the test properly (a year later!). Seems to me anyone "trained" in the english language could read the procedure and figure it out, I did and I can barely spell my own name.
I would make sure they did part 2!
Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
From: at the truck pulls
I'm glad this came up here today. I got the message maybe around 15,000 and just accepted and cleared the message. I have also never had a brand new vehicle fail something like this, I was hoping anyway it would be the same. Sounds as if it is just a CYA sort of thing from Ford, and/or a way to give them a back door to not covering something under warranty.
As I have 21,000 now I'm going to see about ordering some test strips online. Does anyone have these sourced from somewhere other than a dealer?
As I have 21,000 now I'm going to see about ordering some test strips online. Does anyone have these sourced from somewhere other than a dealer?