Is there any way to make a high idle for my 2000 F250? Or do I have to buy some type of chip to put in? Also If I do have to buy a chip where could I find one to give me more power, High Idle, and let me blow some smoke every know and then ( I know not to be driving around town all day blowing smoke It would only be used when I find a doge to blow it on)

Thanks again for any help

 

Riffraff Diesel: DP Tuner F5 Chip Module

Jody offers a few different high idle options, as well as some great tunes for power, efficiency and smoke if you want it

 

You can wire in a high idle rotary switch.

　
High Idle Pot
Posted by cookie88 09-02-2004
　
<TABLE dir=ltr border=1 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=0 width=624><TBODY><TR><TD>Here is the text of the post I used to build mine way back when:

"Get a 5k ohm linear potentiomer with integrated switch from MOUSER part # 31VM305 for $1.72 Also get 5 3M connectors part # 517-560 for 12 cents each.

Get one each of the following 1/4 watt (1/2 watt will do) resistors from either Mouser or radio shack: 2.7k, 3.3k, 3.9k, and 4.7k ohm. You will only use one of these, but you will have to pick the one you like best.

Take your "go" pedal out of the truck. It takes one or two screws and it unplugs.

Get some 16 or 18 gauge stranded wire to hook everything up.

Using the 3M tap connectors, parallel the switch on the pot to the red wire with yellow stripe and the red wire with green stripe. It doesn't matter which terminal on the switch goes to which wire. It's only a switch. By the way, this is called the TVS, throttle validation switch.

Now, using the 3M connectors again, tap into the grey wire with the white stripe and hook it to the center connector of the potentiomer.

With another 3M connector, hook the brown wire with a white stripe to one end of a resistor. Hook the other end of the resistor to the left side of the potentiomer, looking from the shaft side. This is called the TPS Throttle Position Sensor.

By the way, all of these connections are done ABOVE the "go" pedal connector, not on the pedal. I guess you could, but then you can never remove the pedal again.

Put the pedal back in. That's it.

Now here are the gotchas... I wired all of this up in the floorboard using alligator clips so I could try it out before I made it permanent. You may have to try several different values of resistor to get the idle speed up as high as you would like it. A smaller value will make it idle faster.

If you hook the resistor to the wrong side of the pot, when you switch it on, you will go into fast idle, and it will come down as you rotate the pot clockwise. You want it to switch onto low idle and increase as you turn it up, so you should be connected on the left side of the pot as you face the ****.

This control mounts nicely in a 1/4 inch hole on the blank panel just below and to the right of the steering column, just above the fuse panel door. Get a nice **** from mouser and it will look factory.

I hope this helps because I just can't explain it any more clearly.

Good luck.

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Somewhere there are better instructions with pics but I can't find it right now.

You can also purchase an AIC (Auxillary Idle Control). Check Ebay.

 

Ok I some what understand what you are talking about (seeing that Im taking a electronics class right know. I could also get all of the resistors there also)
If you are able to find the pictures that would be much help! I just want to see how you have everything setup. Also Where were you buying your parts?

Thanks

 

Not my write-up. All the info I have is what's in Cookie's post. Try doing a search for DIY AIC.

All this Mod does is emulate the rotary potentiometer that is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) mounted on the throttle pedal. The added components are just wired in parallel. When you turn the DIY idle control the PCM thinks you are applying pressure to the pedal. The throttle pedal is electronic, no mechanical linkage.