Engine will not start
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
There's not a dipstick on the HPOP reservoir. Pulling the allen head plug is the right place to check. Just don't forget to pull the old fashioned dip stick and double check the level in the oil pan too.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14
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So I went under the bus and initially thought that the fuel pump was not making a buzzing noise. Then I realized the tubes were much too large so that must be a coolant pump or something for the rear heat. Then I found the cylinder up front with small metal gas lines and it does buzz for like 20 seconds in the cycle mode. Any other suggestions now that we know fuel pump is working? Hopefully the OEM CPS causes this bus to fire up tomorrow.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 230
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From: Tampa, FL
That was the dipstick i was referring to, the pan. Sorry for the confusion!!
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14
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I put the dealer CPS in it. It makes the same noise without any sign of even trying to fire up. Just the sound of the engine cranking and the starter. The IPR is so hidden in this thing under wires and the actual metal of the bus the way it is designed. Is this my next move? Any other ideas? Starting to lose positivity 
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 2
From: North Port, Florida
When my IPR stuck it would not fire at all. Not saying this is it but all I did was take it out take it apart and clean it up put it back together and back in and been good for at least 30k so far.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 6
From: Ventura co.
Un plug the fuel bowl heater on the back of the fuel filter. it should be a white plug. Then check ALL of your fuses.. i think it's number 25.
my truck did the same thing.
Also, Check the 42 pin wire harness connector on the driver side valve cover.
un plug it and look close for a bare wire.
the lowest wire will rub through the coating and short out on the valve cover then blow the fuse.
just a few things to look for.. im sure someone will chime in with more info
my truck did the same thing.
Also, Check the 42 pin wire harness connector on the driver side valve cover.
un plug it and look close for a bare wire.
the lowest wire will rub through the coating and short out on the valve cover then blow the fuse.
just a few things to look for.. im sure someone will chime in with more info
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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Checked all fuses (engine bay and interior front passenger side). They are fine. I will look closer at wiring harness. It is protected by that typical plastic coating that surrounds bunches of wires, but maybe it burned through.... Found an IPR for 90$ brand new. I hate throwin parts at something. Plus, I do not have a welder and it seems as though I need to weld a piece of metal to a 29 mm socket to get the IPR off according to some posts here.... Free night of partying in the bus if you live in Rochester, NY and can fix it!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Checked all fuses (engine bay and interior front passenger side). They are fine. I will look closer at wiring harness. It is protected by that typical plastic coating that surrounds bunches of wires, but maybe it burned through.... Found an IPR for 90$ brand new. I hate throwin parts at something. Plus, I do not have a welder and it seems as though I need to weld a piece of metal to a 29 mm socket to get the IPR off according to some posts here.... Free night of partying in the bus if you live in Rochester, NY and can fix it!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 138
Likes: 2
From: Homestead
......stop throwing parts at it ....ask around and see if anyone has a bi Decrectional scanner that can maybe help you out in ur area ....ur pisssing in the wind relentlessly with out the scanner, the scanner is not the fix but never the lesss should be ur first step in diagnose of this 7.3 DIT .......it aint no IDI so its just not that simple to listen and look and feel around to fix....even a code from a Adavnce auto Scanner will point you in a direction more or less........comon guys help a member out ...hes at least trying and thats more then most .....PS dont give up....
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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So in this picture you can see what I am working with. I am trying to compare what I am seeing with the other picture labeling which goes where. Looks similar, but what about the large rubber intake covering everything? I do not even see where it disconnects. The IPR seems reeeeally inaccessible. Advice?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68091891@N04/6196522556/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68091891@N04/6196508886
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68091891@N04/6196522556/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68091891@N04/6196508886
Last edited by ltnflvr; Sep 29, 2011 at 05:51 PM. Reason: bad link
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 138
Likes: 2
From: Homestead
A good scanner wil show u all kinds of stuff .....in this case ur gonna be looking at sensor values for ICP and any memory or pending codes......also some fancy scanners have the ability to test a pacticular system and or its components......like I said the scanner will not fix but instead point in a direction......it will help to find the problem ....u can't look at sensor and say well its not working ..........its a semiconductor you have to test and trouble shoot that sensor to mMs sure its operating properly ......its not .like a rod that's sticking out of a hole in ur block.......belive me I wish it was.