Power sliding rear window stuck open
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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Power sliding rear window stuck open
Hi y'all,
I've done a search but couldn't find any help... We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window.
Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it.
I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
Any pointers towards a solution would be appreciated, thanks.
I've done a search but couldn't find any help... We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window.
Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it.
I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
Any pointers towards a solution would be appreciated, thanks.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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I told the wife last night I wanted to get a manual for it... we just got the truck and I didn't think I'd need one so fast.
Just thought I'd toss the question out there in case someone has experienced the same problem & had a solution already.
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Junior User
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This was the only vehicle she looked at before buying it.
It is a very nice truck except for one (major) thing... what's with the transmission hesitation / clunk into gear when starting from a full stop?
(my daughter's F150 does the same thing)
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: NC
lol - I'm not sure it's warrantied. Might just have powertrain warranty. The wife was suppose to confirm that but hasn't yet.
I told the wife last night I wanted to get a manual for it... we just got the truck and I didn't think I'd need one so fast.
Just thought I'd toss the question out there in case someone has experienced the same problem & had a solution already.
I told the wife last night I wanted to get a manual for it... we just got the truck and I didn't think I'd need one so fast.
Just thought I'd toss the question out there in case someone has experienced the same problem & had a solution already.
Tell your wife to read the warranty guide. Bumper to bumper coverage is 3 yr/36k miles.
Powertrain is 5 yr/60k miles.
If you're under 36k miles, you are only risking voiding your warranty claim trying to fix it yourself.
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From: 46th State
A couple of last minute thoughts. Is it possible there may be a fuse just for the rear sliding window? Anything with an electric motor will generally pull more current. Hence the possible need for a stand alone fuse.
Since you are already familiar with the switch, check to see if there is current to it. I would imagine the switch only has voltage with the ignition on. If there is current to the switch, check to see if there is current to the motor with the switch activated. If there's current to the motor connector then it may be that the motor is burnt out.
I think there is a service bulletin to correct the transmission issue.
Since you are already familiar with the switch, check to see if there is current to it. I would imagine the switch only has voltage with the ignition on. If there is current to the switch, check to see if there is current to the motor with the switch activated. If there's current to the motor connector then it may be that the motor is burnt out.
I think there is a service bulletin to correct the transmission issue.
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With the truck off the dome light should dim a bit when you hit the switch if the motor is getting power but jammed. Did you try helping the window close with your hand?
I love my power slider. Great for tossing empty sodas out into the bed or yelling at the dogs. Or to see my spotter backing a trailer at night.
I love my power slider. Great for tossing empty sodas out into the bed or yelling at the dogs. Or to see my spotter backing a trailer at night.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: NC
I hope you're not one of those guys that drives down the road with empty cans in the bed.
If you are, ever wonder where they end up (after they hit my windshield)?
If you aren't, please excuse the interruption and thread hijacking.
If you are, ever wonder where they end up (after they hit my windshield)?
If you aren't, please excuse the interruption and thread hijacking.
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[QUOTE=shotgunz;10861756]I hope you're not one of those guys that drives down the road with empty cans in the bed.
If you are, ever wonder where they end up (after they hit my windshield)?
If you aren't, please excuse the interruption and thread hijacking.[/
Nah they end up in the trash. I just meant when I'm putting around from a trailhead or fishing hole back to camp. All low speed dirt road stuff. They're actually barley sodas but I figured I'd get a lecture from the safety police so I left that out. Looks like you're plenty far away though.
If you are, ever wonder where they end up (after they hit my windshield)?
If you aren't, please excuse the interruption and thread hijacking.[/
Nah they end up in the trash. I just meant when I'm putting around from a trailhead or fishing hole back to camp. All low speed dirt road stuff. They're actually barley sodas but I figured I'd get a lecture from the safety police so I left that out. Looks like you're plenty far away though.
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Junior User
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A couple of last minute thoughts. Is it possible there may be a fuse just for the rear sliding window? Anything with an electric motor will generally pull more current. Hence the possible need for a stand alone fuse.
Since you are already familiar with the switch, check to see if there is current to it. I would imagine the switch only has voltage with the ignition on. If there is current to the switch, check to see if there is current to the motor with the switch activated. If there's current to the motor connector then it may be that the motor is burnt out.
I think there is a service bulletin to correct the transmission issue.
Since you are already familiar with the switch, check to see if there is current to it. I would imagine the switch only has voltage with the ignition on. If there is current to the switch, check to see if there is current to the motor with the switch activated. If there's current to the motor connector then it may be that the motor is burnt out.
I think there is a service bulletin to correct the transmission issue.
Appreciate the service bulletin notification, I'll have a look for it before taking it in.
lol on the thread drift - I wonder what she'll say when I take a shot... I prefer bottles myself!
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From: 46th State
I'm pretty sure it's not a fuse... opens just fine. I did attempt to tap / bang / pull closed but it's not jammed - it feels locked in place. My next step is (would be) as you suggested - check for power at the motor. I'll wait for a dealer check before doing anything.
Appreciate the service bulletin notification, I'll have a look for it before taking it in.
lol on the thread drift - I wonder what she'll say when I take a shot... I prefer bottles myself!
Appreciate the service bulletin notification, I'll have a look for it before taking it in.
lol on the thread drift - I wonder what she'll say when I take a shot... I prefer bottles myself!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Detroit 'burbs
While I hear the reasons "oh they always break", I dont understand why you WOULDNT want the power sliding rear window. These things are great for extra air circulation on a nice day. This is my second truck with this option and I love it.