yeah lets do that lol no new news yet hes workin on it now im headed out to help him out so once hes got some ideas him or I will come back a post.

 

Chris, one little item, you can't do sweep tests with a digital multimeter. I actually had to go buy an analog one to work on Archion's truck.

 

geez, i leave for a day and all of a sudden theres talk about my tools, dollies, and other randomness, lol

ok heres the update

fuel rail pressure with ignition on (not running) 37psi
i think this is low, but im not sure, anyone have numbers for this?

map sensor reference voltage - 4 should be 4 to 6
map sensor signal wire voltage no vacuum - 2.75 should be ~ 5
i couldnt test with vacuum due to no vacuum creation tool :P

TPS voltage - 1.5 (i think, it was hard to read) should be .5 to 1
TPS reference voltage - 4 should be ~ 5
TPS resistance (throttle closed) - eighty-bajillion should be 3k to 4k
TPS resistance (throttle full open) - eighty-bajillion and 7 should be 350

after reading i decided the problem could also be the IAC so heres that too
IAC voltage on both terminals - 12.5 should be 10.5
IAC resistance - 10.4 should be between 7 and 13

soooo basically, my TPS is screwed, least thats what it looks like to me
and i might need to swap my MAP sensor too on account of the low voltage reading

btw im working off the hanes manual for my limits and such ,idk if that changes anything

i also repaired my non-exhistant egr vacuum line, i do NOT have vacuum lines going to my ACV or my Air-BPV i have no idea where the heck those are, and my lines are broken for them, advice on that would be much appreciated.

i forgot, EGR sensor shows 5 volts, should be 5 and it also shows 4k ohms, it should be 5k, im not too sure that thats bad, but i can look into getting a new one if i still cant find the damn problem

 

If those readings are correct, and I have no reason to believe that they aren't, then yes, the TPS and MAP are your starting points.

When you get your TPS installed, try to shoot for .95v, even if you have to take a file to oblong the two bolt holes in the sensor. They'll tell you it's "non-adjustable", but you'll have better performance out of the new sensor if you make it adjustable.

See here:
http://goo.gl/0usT7

MAP is plug and play.

Go through all your vacuum lines and replace as necessary. I did all mine with rubber hoses a few months ago, so I've eliminated all possibility of vacuum line issues with my truck.

Use Motorcraft sensors where you can. Really, it makes a difference in quality!

 

Does your truck have the vacuum diagram on the radiator support? If not, PM Archion or look for his threads. If I remember correctly he posted some pictures of the vacuum solenoids on his 86.

 

yeah ive got the diagram, i had to dig it up though, apparently i painted over it
what size lines do i use for the vacuum lines, i was thinking 2 mm, not really sure though

 

Don't know about that metric stuff, but on my Bronco I used mostly 5/32". The F-150 was done with what I had left over from the Bronco job, and a couple of the larger hoses for the brake booster and PCV.

I bought 30' and 10' respectively, and it did both trucks. As the F-150 was a mis-match mess when I first got it anyway, I'm not sure if the hose sizes are right for you....it's just what worked for me.

Here is a great write-up that might be useful for some of you guys:

Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - FSB Forums

(hope you don't mind a posting from an "other" site)

 

FSB has got some good info, I'm not gonna knock the place.

 

right, thanks for that, i just finished replacing everything with rubber hose, guess what i found out!
apparently, the previous owner didnt like the smog rules, so they just cut and capped the entire smog pump/air byp/air control valve/crossover tube
none of it is connected, and none of it had the valves
sooooo i just capped off the vacuum hoses that were supposed to go to them and ill figure that part out later

got a new map sensor and new tps so now im going to install and run and see how it goes

wish me luck

 

Good luck, it may still set some codes and probably will. Unfortunately the truck I got stuff from in Exmore VA is probably gone, it was pretty complete.

 

right so
new map sensor
new tps
new vacuum lines
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
new distributor cap and rotor button
new pcv valve

it starts
it runs
it does move
but it STILL dies if im not on the gas

someone save me

 

So, you're saying it doesn't idle but otherwise runs OK?

 

Cripes!!

Did you check the voltages again after replacing your sensors? TPS's can be bad out of the box. Check everything again and let us know what you found.

 

well it idles fine initially, basically, i started it, ran it for a bit, drove it up the street, and it died at a stop sign

soooo, i also replaced the idle air control valve, on account of the "it runs better WITH a vacuum leak"

i will go check all my voltages again, especially since NOW the ******* wont start at all, and it looks like i have less fuel pressure than before, possible fuel clog?
ill do a once over and see what comes up

btw if you want to make a bunch of cash, you should have invested stock in oreillys, if you have stock in oreillys, wait until i say my truck is running fine, then sell

 

So, it dies once it warms up?

This could be caused by something being actuated by a temperature-actuated vacuum control device (the EGR comes to mind) but you said that's all been disconnected. *sigh*

The ignition modules are known to cause this kind of behavior when they're failing, too.

Pull your codes again........