diesel tuners
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Freshman User
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diesel tuners
I am looking to install a tuner on my 2003 f350. I have looked at the banks and bully dog, but I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on which would work better for my truck. I am gonna upgrade to a better intercooler, a high ram intake tube, cold air intake, and upgrade the exhaust. I was originally going to run two 5" stacks but instead im gonna run dual 5" exhaust from under the back of the truck. Now I have heard several people say to remove the cat and some say keep the cat. Im trying to figure also if it would be better for the truck to run the 5"exhaust all the way from the turbo and remove the cat or to start from the cat. I want to do what is going to be best for the truck and give me the best power out of the truck. Thanks for any opinions.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Hands down......SCT for the tuner. Banks is WAY WAY over priced and bullydog programming is junk. "Cold air" intake is worthless and actually detrimental unless it's sealed from underhood heat. The stock air filter is EXCELLENT for up to about 500 hp and will provide WAY more protection for your engine and turbo. It will also hold about 3 pounds of dirt before it's ready to throw in the trash.
You REALLY need to look at gauges FIRST if you don't already have them. A fuel pressure gauge is one of the most important but like an EGT gauge it has to be installed separately. Scan Gauge II, Edge Insight, or Dash Daq are good gauge options (listed from least to most expensive) that plug into the OBDII port and will monitor everything that the PCM monitors.
You REALLY need to look at gauges FIRST if you don't already have them. A fuel pressure gauge is one of the most important but like an EGT gauge it has to be installed separately. Scan Gauge II, Edge Insight, or Dash Daq are good gauge options (listed from least to most expensive) that plug into the OBDII port and will monitor everything that the PCM monitors.
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Freshman User
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I do need to do gauges. I want to run analog gauges for the exhaust and trans temp because the trans temp gauges are known for going out frequently and it would give me another monitoring system besides just what the pcm says. But I do want to put another digital gauge as well. Does that sound like overkill?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I do need to do gauges. I want to run analog gauges for the exhaust and trans temp because the trans temp gauges are known for going out frequently and it would give me another monitoring system besides just what the pcm says. But I do want to put another digital gauge as well. Does that sound like overkill?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Francestown, NH
I also had a trans temp sensor go out on me. There's a couple of things I keep in my truck as a type of self help kit, and one of them is an instant read laser thermometer that I got at Home Depot ... I think I paid about $75 but you can get cheaper ($29). I got a decent one because I had other uses for it. I know where it is if I need it, it comes to job sites with me, but mostly if that sensor goes again and gets me afraid that I'm in the middle of nowhere with an over heating tranny then I can read the temp of the case and hoses and make a decision as to whether or not I can safely drive home.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Millersville, MD
I'd advise NOT to put a tuner in your truck UNLESS you (or someone else) has installed APR head studs in your truck to replace the torque to yield head bolts that were stock.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2002
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To fully bulletproof it BP is correct....
but I'll say I've had three Ex's all tuned and never replaced the head studs...
as long as you tune it 'within reason' and not full race, you should be good...
(after all, it IS a behemoth, get a real race car if you want to tune it to the max past the reliability stage
)
my logic is that I'll replace it if/when it breaks, YRMV and fer sure IMHO !
but I'll say I've had three Ex's all tuned and never replaced the head studs...
as long as you tune it 'within reason' and not full race, you should be good...
(after all, it IS a behemoth, get a real race car if you want to tune it to the max past the reliability stage
)my logic is that I'll replace it if/when it breaks, YRMV and fer sure IMHO !
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
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I agree!
I would do ARP's just as a saftey measure.
It would really suck to spend money on a tuner and gauges and an exhaust, then 2 weeks later need new head gaskets.
Spend the $1,000 now, bullet proof it, then install what ever you would like after.
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Freshman User
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i have already installed the arp studs and new head gaskets. i also installed an new oil cooler. i had the high pressure oil pump go out about three months ago. i had to clean all the injectors, replace the high pressure oil pump, ipr, and icp. i figured since i was going into the motor this far i would go ahead and fix alot of the common problems they have before i had any more. i pulled the heads and had them resurfaced, installed new head gaskets, and the arp studs and also installed an egr delete kit. i know the motor will now hold the added power added from the exhaust, intake, and tuner.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Plano TX and Brentwood TN
The best thing would be to get custom tunes for it even if it comes with canned tunes.
If it's not too late, pass on the intake. At 508HP at the rear wheels and I'm still using the stocker. Not worth it in my opinion.
Also 5" exhaust plan on losing some low end grunt with as little extra fuel/air that you are pushing through that thing. You might be able to compensate for that by having them over fuel even more with your tunes, but it will be there.
If it's not too late, pass on the intake. At 508HP at the rear wheels and I'm still using the stocker. Not worth it in my opinion.
Also 5" exhaust plan on losing some low end grunt with as little extra fuel/air that you are pushing through that thing. You might be able to compensate for that by having them over fuel even more with your tunes, but it will be there.