5.0 Poor Boy Performance
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
5.0 Poor Boy Performance
So I picked up a spare (complete ) 5.0 for $150. I've been looking into DIY porting/polishing on the heads and Im pretty confident about doing that myself. From what I've found, the truck lower intake seems to be plenty good enough. As for a cam, I wanted to go with a HO cam but that'll have to wait until after school. I just got my Flowtech headers and I am planning dual straights, with a X-pipe. The local shop always brags about them and I noticed a difference on my buddys 4.6, so I'll give it a try. Does anyone have any input on the build? Has anyone P&P'd the intake? And I know, the Flowtechs are garbage, but for $200, I cant complain... Also has anyone every fabbed up a DIY intake for these trucks? I dont want to spend hundreds on one
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 2
You should be able to pick up the HO cam cheep , is your truck a roller now ?? if not you will need the retainer and the dog bones and lifters , push rods , steel dist gear , the block is roller ready , the 5.0 truck intake is good , the exhaust will help alot ....Lew
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,815
Likes: 708
From: Tobyhanma, PA
Depends what its going into, as an X-pipe is a hassle to try on a 4wd. As Lew said above, the intake sshould be fine, no need for some rice looking cone filter. As far as cam choice it depends on whether the truck is SD or MAF. If you have the engine apart to do head work, put the cam in then. No sense having to take it all apart in a few months again.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Sorry guys, should've given a little more info on the truck. It's going into a '95 f250 2wd. I think that should be a roller block already. I was quoted at $425 for just a cam. Considering what the motor cost me, thats pretty expensive. I'll send you a PM, WhiteBeast. As for intake, it is a SD truck as far as I know. Twin intake tubes is a SD, right?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 890
Likes: 1
If they stay seperated, the yes it is speed density, if they come together and connect to a MAF, then it's MAF. Unless your truck is a 95-96, its probably a SD truck.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
What are the visual differences between roller heads and non-roller heads? I cant find a build date on this block I have....Google isnt helping me out either
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Ok never mind, found it. The block is a '91 with flat tappets. That being said, if my current block/heads are roller and I want to P&P the non-roller heads, do I have everything I need to convert these non-roller heads to rollers when I install them? Is it too big of a chore?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 2
The heads are E 7s on both motors , the roller has nothing to do with the heads , the 95 has a good roller cam with all the roller parts , you can swap them to the other motor and make it a roller , see post #2.....
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 890
Likes: 1
You'll just have to get a machine shop to attach the spider plate as on the roller motors the valves are paired off to prevent valve float at higher rpms. Where are you located? I have a buddy who ports heads very well and has a great reputation that does them for $400.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 2
You'll just have to get a machine shop to attach the spider plate as on the roller motors the valves are paired off to prevent valve float at higher rpms. Where are you located? I have a buddy who ports heads very well and has a great reputation that does them for $400.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Alright, motor is in, heads are kinda ported, and headers are on. Now im running inot a no start issue. The first time i cranked it over it fired up right away, but over the course of 30 seconds, slowed from 900rpm to a stall. this is leading me to think its a fueling issue. what is the fuel pressure supposed to be? also, with key on (engine off obviously) i only get a short spurt of fuel when i depress the valve on my fuel rail. shouldn't i get a constant flow? when i turn the key on, i can hear the pump running for 5 seconds or so. i need a little direction here, im lost lol