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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Father son project update

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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:01 PM
  #16  
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Originally Posted by 69jwatson
Great to see another Father Son project...I just got my son a 69 f100 ranger, no rust or dents. I just dont know where to start, any pointers?
Pointers? Ha! How about an outline? First a note, some of the phases can be piggybacked. For example, subassemblies (chassis, engine, etc.) can be done while the bodywork is being completed.

Your preferences may vary so in the end it's up to you. Remember, this is a FULL rebuild/restoration. Adjust accordingly if it needs to be a driver while being rebuilt. Here ya go:

Pre-Teardown Phase
Determine the purpose of your rig... street/strip, trail riding, daily driver, etc.
Determine budget...
Now add another 25 percent to your budget.
Determine sources for tech support and parts.
Build a Bumpside Reference Library
Order lots of catalogs!!
Invest in a factory shop manual. Chilton's or Haynes otherwise.
Get your work area and tools in order
Needs.... Money, time, and patience.

Phase 1 - Teardown (take LOTS of digital pics!)
Bodywork / Interior Disassembly.
Catalog, label, and bag your parts!
Engine & transmission removal
Bed & cab removal
Chassis disassembly (including rear axle) and hardlines

Phase 2a - Bodywork
Clean & strip body finish
Bodywork, body mods, and seal with epoxy primer
Door fitment & gaps (rebuild your door hinges now)
Paint job!

Phase 2b - Chassis
Strip & refinish frame
Build axles and install new brakes
Build new suspension & steering
Install fuel tank, fuel line, brake lines.

Phase 3 - Powertrain Build-up
Build engine
Build transmission
Build transfer case

Phase 4 - Cab Assembly
Install cab on frame
Install & adjust door & window mechanicals
Install door window glass, rear glass, and windshield
Install firewall pad
Run all electrical wiring, vacuum hoses, & control cables.
Install under dash components like wiper motor, etc.
Install instruments, steering wheel and column
Install climate control systems
Run any sound-system wiring
Lay sound deadener (like Dynamat) and carpet underlayments

Phase 5 - Powertrain Installation
Install engine/transmission/transfer case
Install brake hydraulics (MC/booster/proportioning valve)
Build exhaust system
Install core support & radiator

Phase 6 - First Run
Perform preliminary engine system checks and FIRE IT UP!
At this point you should have a truck that is driveable but not road legal.

Phase 7 - Front Clip Assembly & Bed Assembly
Install inner fenders, fenders, and hood
Install bed and route wiring to rear

Phase 8 - Interior
Upholstery & headliner
Install interior accessories
Watershields & door panels
Carpeting
Install seat(s)

Phase 9 - You're Almost There!
Dial-in engine tuning
Install exterior electrical components (head, tail, side marker, running lights, etc.)
Perform a thorough vehicle system checks
Detail work (emblems, grill, bumpers, etc.)
Exterior accessories (winch, light bars, auxiliary lights, etc.)

Phase 10 - Celebrate!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:46 AM
  #17  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
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From: Illinois
He just turned 15, however money is tight. We drove it tonight after fixing the sticky throttle linkage. The truck drives and runs great...Not sure if I strip it down i will have enough time or cash to get it all done in a year
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 06:25 AM
  #18  
jowilker's Avatar
jowilker
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25 Year Member
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Club FTE Silver Member

Originally Posted by 69jwatson
He just turned 15, however money is tight. We drove it tonight after fixing the sticky throttle linkage. The truck drives and runs great...Not sure if I strip it down i will have enough time or cash to get it all done in a year
You can easily spend $5-10,000.00 on a tear down while taking 2-5 years to complete.

If money is tight rubbing & repairing may be a better way to go.




John
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #19  
elgemcdlf's Avatar
elgemcdlf
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,867
Likes: 3
From: Alton, MO
I would keep it driveable. It is real easy to lose interest in a truck that is tore down & the money isn't there to finish it. Instead of being a project it becomes a "taking up space". In tore down stage it is worthless to try to sell as a whole unit. Just look at the projects you see for sale that aren't moving. If it runs well enough and drives decent you can teach him about brakes by tearing it down and checking them Gives a great opportunity to check/grease the bearings. Filters are cheap. Elbow grease will work wonders on appearance. Tinting the windows if that be something you wish to do is inexpensive if you do it yourself. I think I have $20 into the tint in my truck.

Probably a rough looking step bumper. Couple cans of spray bomb silver or black will change the entire look. I think you get the idea. Keep your eyes open for things like wheels and a slider back glass along with any body panels you may need.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #20  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Great advice! I would love to restore the whole truck but I know my limitations and honestly the truck is in great condition. I think we will redo the cab and repaint maybe redo the trim and lenses. As he saves money we can do upgrades on the motor as we go.

Should I use the original air breather or go out and get a aftermarket that may help in fuel economy and power? suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #21  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Pointers? Ha! How about an outline? First a note, some of the phases can be piggybacked. For example, subassemblies (chassis, engine, etc.) can be done while the bodywork is being completed.

Your preferences may vary so in the end it's up to you. Remember, this is a FULL rebuild/restoration. Adjust accordingly if it needs to be a driver while being rebuilt. Here ya go:

Pre-Teardown Phase
Determine the purpose of your rig... street/strip, trail riding, daily driver, etc.
Determine budget...
Now add another 25 percent to your budget.
Determine sources for tech support and parts.
Build a Bumpside Reference Library
Order lots of catalogs!!
Invest in a factory shop manual. Chilton's or Haynes otherwise.
Get your work area and tools in order
Needs.... Money, time, and patience.

Phase 1 - Teardown (take LOTS of digital pics!)
Bodywork / Interior Disassembly.
Catalog, label, and bag your parts!
Engine & transmission removal
Bed & cab removal
Chassis disassembly (including rear axle) and hardlines

Phase 2a - Bodywork
Clean & strip body finish
Bodywork, body mods, and seal with epoxy primer
Door fitment & gaps (rebuild your door hinges now)
Paint job!

Phase 2b - Chassis
Strip & refinish frame
Build axles and install new brakes
Build new suspension & steering
Install fuel tank, fuel line, brake lines.

Phase 3 - Powertrain Build-up
Build engine
Build transmission
Build transfer case

Phase 4 - Cab Assembly
Install cab on frame
Install & adjust door & window mechanicals
Install door window glass, rear glass, and windshield
Install firewall pad
Run all electrical wiring, vacuum hoses, & control cables.
Install under dash components like wiper motor, etc.
Install instruments, steering wheel and column
Install climate control systems
Run any sound-system wiring
Lay sound deadener (like Dynamat) and carpet underlayments

Phase 5 - Powertrain Installation
Install engine/transmission/transfer case
Install brake hydraulics (MC/booster/proportioning valve)
Build exhaust system
Install core support & radiator

Phase 6 - First Run
Perform preliminary engine system checks and FIRE IT UP!
At this point you should have a truck that is driveable but not road legal.

Phase 7 - Front Clip Assembly & Bed Assembly
Install inner fenders, fenders, and hood
Install bed and route wiring to rear

Phase 8 - Interior
Upholstery & headliner
Install interior accessories
Watershields & door panels
Carpeting
Install seat(s)

Phase 9 - You're Almost There!
Dial-in engine tuning
Install exterior electrical components (head, tail, side marker, running lights, etc.)
Perform a thorough vehicle system checks
Detail work (emblems, grill, bumpers, etc.)
Exterior accessories (winch, light bars, auxiliary lights, etc.)

Phase 10 - Celebrate!
This will help out a bunch. I made a list this morning with items to be done and things to be bought. It also keeps my ADD brain from wondering, it is so easy to jump from this to that since I can see alot of things I would like to do.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #22  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Does anyone have some photos of a 67-72 that has been moderately redone?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #23  
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elgemcdlf
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,867
Likes: 3
From: Alton, MO
Aftermarket air cleaners come in all different price ranges. There are some that are inexpensive. Valve covers are cheap as well unless you go crazy. Get matching. So if alum valve covers get an alum air cleaner. Chrome and chrome.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 10:02 PM
  #24  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
gotcha...The valve covers cleaned up nice and are the original or I think original "power by ford" blue covers. If this is the case I guess use the original monster breather?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 06:14 AM
  #25  
elgemcdlf's Avatar
elgemcdlf
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Joined: May 2010
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Likes: 3
From: Alton, MO
You can get those valve covers in chrome. You could go with a chrome air cleaner and paint the valve covers (the letters a contrasting color). A neat thing I seen on PowerBlock one Saturday was taking two air cleaners and building one. You cut the horn area out of the donor and put it in yours. Then run flexible hose out to the grille area. You will need to build the ends for the grille area or perhaps find them in another vehicle. You now have created ram air. If you were real creative you could cut openings in your front bumper to whatever shape you wanted and pipe the air in from there. Gettin the idea? You could cut a rectangle on both sides of the bumper but instead of cutting the entire thing out cut it in slots like your grille area above. Did I explain that well enough? You could actually do that with whatever shape you wanted. I try to flow my shapes into the vehicles.

Example: My bumper is rectangular, grille is rectangular, mirrors are rectangular. Nose of the truck looking at it from out front is rectangular. Can you guess what shape driving lights I am putting in the front bumper?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #26  
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SeaBeeCm1
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From: Deltona Fl
that is a awsome list to go by . I had no direction till now thanks
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #27  
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Originally Posted by 69jwatson
This will help out a bunch. I made a list this morning with items to be done and things to be bought. It also keeps my ADD brain from wondering, it is so easy to jump from this to that since I can see alot of things I would like to do.
You're welcome.

Originally Posted by elgemcdlf
Example: My bumper is rectangular, grille is rectangular, mirrors are rectangular. Nose of the truck looking at it from out front is rectangular. Can you guess what shape driving lights I am putting in the front bumper?
Round driving lights to match the headlights?

Sorry, I couldn't resist............
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #28  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
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From: Illinois
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
You're welcome.



Round driving lights to match the headlights?

Sorry, I couldn't resist............
I was a little stumped.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #29  
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elgemcdlf
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From: Alton, MO
LMC sells the front bumper for F series trucks with either round or rectangular. Same price either way. The rounds look good too. If I had round mirrors I would most likely go with round. I am putting their lights in my bumper. I wanted other mods to the bumper and couldn't see cutting up a $300 bumper when I could just cut up a couple $20 bumpers and put their lights in them.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #30  
69jwatson's Avatar
69jwatson
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 79
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From: Illinois
would you recommend LMC for the carpet and sound proofing in the cab? I am also looking for door panels(ranger style). The only thing LMC sells are the plastic poured and only in black. they looked pretty cheesy online, your thoughts?
 
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