Anyone have one of these ?

Beneficial ?

I like the idea/concept, just wondered if it was worth while...

http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...ll/CAB-RH.html

http://www.amazon.com/Convert---Ball...6617211&sr=8-3

Schuck Hitches

 

I have never used one, but to be honest I've never seen the point. If your ball mount fits tightly and your coupler is properly adjusted, I can't see this doing that much. If you are getting clunking while towing (and I have before) its usually because something is not fitting correctly.

 

I would guess when you insert a male mount into a female receiver, there will be some difference in size ...
(WOW - I just reread this - should I put this in the Club ?!?)

Maybe my ball mount is too small for the receiver because even without a trailer I can make it 'wobble' up and down...

 

If pulling a light trailer on bumpy roads the hitch can rattle a little in the receiver. I think that this is what the product is trying to prevent. I haven't had a problem in the X but have in other trucks. I just add some nylon tape as a filler to keep it from rattling.

 

hitch vice takes out all the slop and is cheaper to boot


Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories

 

This type of hitch bar you are linking to is to be used in weight carrying mode (i.e. NOT weight distribution mode). Our trucks (Ex's) receivers have a maximum non-WD rating of 5000#'s.

While this type of hitch bar may provide some reduction in the banging you would get while trailering say a boat when stopping...I've never used one nor known anyone that has. Typically the lighter trailers don't result in major issues with our heavier trucks.

For heavier trailers like many of us tow we use a WD hitch...those receivers are much heavier duty to allow coupling to the WD bars over this type of receiver you linked to...

Is there an advantage if towing a trailer under 5000#'s without WD to use one of these receivers...there very well could be...however if the trailer had surge brakes...I'm not sure I would mess around with something like this because it may interfere with the surge braking functionality with the cushioned interface (don't know)...but for other trailers under say 2000#'s that don't have brakes...it could provide some increased towing pleasure...but to be honest...a trailer under 2000#'s behind our trucks should trailer with no issues what so ever.

These are just my $0.02...take them for what you paid!

Joe.

 

I'll definately be getting on of those hitch vices asap. I just feel like the ball mount rattles in the hitch way to much. I was involved in a rear end collision a little more than 3 yrs ago and had the hitch replaced with a factory ford class IV hitch as well as other things. So I know the hitch isn't worn. It's not bad until I throw the bike rack on. Then I have to use ratchet straps just to hold the bike rack from flopping all over the place.

 

Yeah my bike rack came with a special pin that threads into the insert so it doesn't rattle. You can also get the anti rattle pins, but I've had to torch off 2 of them in previous trucks when the locking mechanism got seized up. The vise thing is really nice, too. I really don't have much of a problem with my ball mount, it fits in well and it doesn't rattle with a trailer because there is always tongue weight. I don't think I've ever seen a trailer that wouldn't put some tongue weight on, even empty.

 

Maybe my issue is the light loads I carry or the trailer not being tongue heavy enough...
but every bump I hit the trailer loads and unloads thus jerking the hitch mount around....
mine sounds like someone hammering on the hitch...


temp fixes I tried only lasted a bit...

thanks for the link - will order one of those hitch locks...
just one more step in hookup and have to add a wrench to the 'towing stuff' in the back...

 

I have found that proper loading of a trailer helps any flopping. Weight should be just forward of the centerline of the axles, not as far forward as possible.

Also, consider checking the fitment of the hitch latch that locks around/under the ball. If there is slop where the latch catches the underside of the ball, you will get the hammering sound on the hitch and think it's the receiver wiggling around. There is an adjustment nut on the underside, just behind where the ball goes into the tounge. The tounge should fit snug when latched, with room for movement but not "play" where you can wiggle the tounge back and forth on the ball.

Most new trailers, especially low cost utility trailers will need this adjusted in the initial setup. Sometimes it is also needed on a "new to me" trailer to match the ball well.

One way to check and confirm if it is the receiver that is loose is to have a friend jump up and down on the back of the trailer while you watch what is actually moving and making the noise. Also, cheap receivers will not fit into the hitch as well as a quality brand name product.

 

I have had and used a convert-a-ball for about 10 years. It works great on loads over 3,500 lbs. I upgraded the reciever on my 2000 F350 with the newer one a couple years ago that is rated higher and utilizes the 2.5" ball mount so I can carry more weight.

 

I have noticed ball mounts are different shapes. My ProPride hitch fits perfectly in my Ex's receiver but will not fit in my Dodge's yet my lighter duty mounts fit in both. I have a WD hitch that fits in both too. The Ex's receiver is a sharper square and my Dodge's are rounded. I also notice the lighter mounts rattle more than the ProPride stinger.

 

My neighbor has something like this. Could never figure out what he uses if for.

 

Trey, All I can say to the pic of that crazy lookin' hitch is I hope someone explains what it is for and how it is used.

 

Best I can figure out is air ride for your trailer. They have them in the 5th wheel variety also.