I wish I could point you in a direction to verify it. Except for the location of the connector at the shroud, everything else is a bit of a pain to get at, as you are probably well aware! Being new, maybe starting from the PCM end and work forward, perhaps and ohm check from the PCM to the EFC connector.

One thing to check would be a recessed pin in the connector. I do recall, I think it was Mchan said that the P0528 code was the PCM not communicating with the EFC. If the Fan still kicked up at approximately 210F then the fan was operating correctly, by temperature. It seems to me that there was another code that if thrown with the P0528 would suggest the fan was faulty.

I had an additional thread on the subject. Let me see if I can find that. There was some good information in it supplied from several posters.

Eric

 

Sounds good. i will check to see if any of the pins arent lining up. I have yet to hear the fan kick on but i know it takes quite a bit for them to get going anyways...my coolant temp has not been above 191

 

Ha! It's in this thread! Check the response from Mchan68. Is that the other code you are getting?

And I am in the same boat, I think I have not seen more than 195 since my Engine work, and it has not been above 50 degrees here, more often than not it has been in the 30's or below so I haven't challenged the fan temperature wise.

Mchan68 says a sustained 2500 RPMs, but I think unless you are in the shop or have an ambient temp over 70 degrees, or perhaps pulling a load, even sustained high RPMs on the road in cold weather may not be enough to raise temperature over 210 and cause it to kick up.

I have "played" with my truck after the engine work I had done, and did not get the fan. I pushed it pretty hard, but maybe not hard or long enough.

Eric

 

Same here, I've yet to have the fan kick on. And yes those are the two codes I'm getting. Was hoping it was just a fluke on my SCT but my friends AE said the same last night

 

That would suck to have a bad new fan go in... Hope it is not the case!

 

It can't be to bad because when it originally went bad, the truck wouldn't even start until we unplugged it

 

If you can read the fan speed from the odb2 port
you'd know that the indicated speed was
working.

The SG2 can show actual fan speed. Would
help you tell what is working...

 

I started reading this thread hoping to see what type replacement fan clutch everyone was using... anyway... I'll pass along what I've experianced with my '04 E350 extended van (which I understand is 'de-tuned' from the F series trucks, not sure if true, but saw it posted the van 6.0 are de-tuned... whatever that means) which I find it interesting when (temps) your fans kick in.
I've had this van from day one, bone stock w/ 230k of basically trouble free miles. Years ago while pulling my motorcycle trailer up a hill all of a sudden the van started making some un-Godly noise like my engine was going to EXPLODE and it freaked me out, never heard anything like it, but realized once I crested the hill the WHINING noise died down and went away. I didn't have a scan II or anything to verify the temp other then the gauge which doesn't do much.
Anyway I figured it was normal operating feature as it only happens when towing up hills etc. and forgot about it. I have since bought a cheap code reader to check another vehicle which was throwing codes and I plugged it into the van just because and last yr I noticed my temp never got to normal operating temp and found the t-stat froze open, so had it replaced... not sure what type antifreeze was used but the machanic is a trusted guy who owns a Dodge diesel truck so I trust he used the correct antifreeze. The van ran great, worked the same, then a few months later my fan started running almost all the time... cruising around town, no load etc. I parked the van (I barely use this truck so it was parked for a couple months) went out to start it and found the alternator siezed and broke my serpentine belt, which is where I am today.
Working on the van in winter temps outside is not my idea of fun and I have another vehicle so I've been waiting for the weather to break and collecting parts/supplies and will be tackling this project in a few weeks.

Anyway... sorry for the winded dialog... but with my code scanner I determined (when the van was operating normal...or as it always did) my fan clutch would kick in at 220-225*F and drop out around 200*F
And when the fan started running all the time I didn't have my reader hooked up so I don't know what the temps where, but I assumed with 230k miles it's prolly shot.
So being I don't want to do this job twice (shop manual says remove radiator to replace serpetine belt) I've decided to go 'pro-active' and replace water pump(motorcraft PW491), belt tensioner(motorcraft BT-70), Belt(Gates, FleetRunner), Lower Radiator Hose(mtrcraft KM4813), Idler Pully(mtrcrft YS315) and Fan Clutch(Hayden 3261 Premium Fan Clutch)
I decided to stay with motorcraft parts due that for 230k miles they've perform flawless... BUT I went with the Hayden Fan Clutch to save a few dollars... I hope I didn't make a mistake. Anyone have any experiance with the Hayden Fan Clutch?
Again sorry for the long winded story... just figured I'd share my story fwiw.

 

Hayden was one of the parts I looked at initially, along wth Dorman and a few others. I had decided to stick with strictly Motorcraft parts in the end.

I did not see anything negative posted about Hayden but I did see some less than satisfied posts in regard to Dorman. I have no experience with either so I can't really provide anything worth a plugged nickel. I think my suggestion would be to stick with Motorcraft. I replaced the normal duty Fan Clutch with a HD Fan Clutch, BTW...

Eric

 

Yeah I saw that about Dorman too, but I thought I read/saw that Hayden made the FC for MtrCft so I'm hoping the $150 savings don't come back and bite me in the A$$... believe me... I don't want to tear into this van again... there's no room, I was shocked to read the radiator had to come out just to replace the serpentine belt... so I figured I'd replace everything else in there while its all accessable and open.
I've learned more about this engine than I ever thought or needed to know thanks to this and other 6.0 PSD forums.
Thanks for the reply Eric
Tom

 

My pleasure!

 

Sorry to bring this up again but I'm having the same issue. My fan clutch got worn out and so I got a new one from rockauto.com. I took it to my mechanic about a month ago and had it installed the right way and it ran fine. About a week ago, i started to notice a faint chirping noise (i could barely hear it over the engine with windows down) that would speed up with acceleration and would go away when i let off the gas.

I decided to run the codes on the truck and see what came up and the only code I got was P0528: fan speed sensor circuit no signal. The coolant bottle is puking so I know it's getting too hot. I don't know what to do.

I know someone said that code by itself meant the computer probably wasn't picking up the fan speed. Could this be resolved by unplugging the batteries for a few hours or has my 4 week old fan clutch already gone bad?

 

Disconnecting the battery will not take care of the issue. The P0528 code is not a big deal unless the second related code comes in as well. The two codes would mean you have a one speed fan. Check the harness to the fan to ensure it has not been cut by the fan itself. If you can hear the fan change speed ( you have to get above 210f (ECT) your fan is still operating but being driven by the temp of the engine primarily.

More concerning is your venting coolant. If you are spiking high temps in your coolant, failed thermostat, you may see venting. But more often than not, venting from the bottle cap indicates failed head gaskets. Go to the tech folder and bone up on coolant leaks/puking....

Hope its a Tstat issue. Could be costly otherwise.

Eric

More concerning

 

I know the degas caps are bad on all stock 6.0 and 6.4 trucks and have replaced it. I watched it closely when it overheated and I havent seen any leak out since I have had the fan clutch replaced until I also started hearing that chirping a week ago. There is no mixing of coolant/oil and I have the ARP studs and all the normal work done to it so I dont think it is the HG.

The only thing I can think of is if the fan sensor is letting the engine get too hot, the coolant pressure passes 16 psi and the degas cap lets the coolant out like its designed to do.

Another thing is I dont know if I would be able to hear the fan speed increase because I have a straight pipe and its pretty loud.

Also if it were a Tstat failure, wouldn't it generate a code?

 

Tstat is just a spring loaded valve. No you would not receive a code for a thermostat failure. Do you have guages for engine Coolant Temperature, Engine Oil Temperature?