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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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Gauge picks

Hey guys, I am looking at putting some gauges in my truck and was curious to see some pictures of where you put em. Also open to suggestions on which gauges to use(brand and types). Thanks in advance guys.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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1983F1503004x4
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I didn't put them in, but the previous owner did. Eventually I'm going to add a dash-mounted tachometer, but for now it's just these.

They're Sunpro oil pressure and temperature gauges. Run a hard line from each gauge to the appropriate location on the block, power for the back-lighting, and a ground and there you have it. At least, I think that's how it's done. Haven't really looked at 'em other than where the hard lines run. The PO also wired up a cigarette lighter/accessory plug too.

They're mounted under the heater controls and radio.

 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Here is what I did:

 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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I'm thinking of placing an oil pressure and water temp gauge in the little iPhone pocket to the right of the steering column. Sure hate to lose the perfect place for this phone, but that may be better than losing another engine.

Havent really laid it out yet, but at first blush it looks like they'll fit. Will probably do that when I re-do the dash trim. My rosewood is peeling badly, unlike what Chris has, so may go with black and, if so could use some other black ABS I have to make the panel for the gauges to fit into.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 10:16 PM
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1983F1503004x4
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I'm thinking of placing an oil pressure and water temp gauge in the little iPhone pocket to the right of the steering column. Sure hate to lose the perfect place for this phone, but that may be better than losing another engine.

Havent really laid it out yet, but at first blush it looks like they'll fit. Will probably do that when I re-do the dash trim. My rosewood is peeling badly, unlike what Chris has, so may go with black and, if so could use some other black ABS I have to make the panel for the gauges to fit into.
That was the first place that my previous owner mounted them, and at a glance, if you were driving the vehicle on a straight away, I think the steering wheel would be in the way of view.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 1983F1503004x4
That was the first place that my previous owner mounted them, and at a glance, if you were driving the vehicle on a straight away, I think the steering wheel would be in the way of view.
Hadn't thought of that. May have to reconsider. Wonder if my tilt wheel would make much diff. For all I use the radio I could put them in place of it.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Hadn't thought of that. May have to reconsider. Wonder if my tilt wheel would make much diff. For all I use the radio I could put them in place of it.
Gary - Have you considered an A Pillar pod?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...most-done.html
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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Chris - I have considered the A-pillar pod approach, but it doesn't do much for me. I'd rather do something more like what you've done.

Having said that, Ive also been thinking that the factory gauges should be accurate enough if I did two things: First, replace the instrument voltage regulator with a true voltage regulator. Second, run a test of the pressure and temp sending units, as well as the corresponding gauges, with direct reading ones on the bench and find out what, for instance, the temp is when the pointer hits N. Maybe with stable voltage and an understanding of what the readings mean they can be relied upon?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Maybe with stable voltage and an understanding of what the readings mean they can be relied upon?
One can hope, I guess.

One of these days, I want to get this for the ICVR:



Ford Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator 5v | eBay



I don't have reliable factory gauges yet so haven't really tried to match up, say:

R == 50 psi
M == 60 psi
A == 70 psi

or whatever.


I read here once that, concerning the oil pressure gauge, anything between 10 and 90 PSI is considered "normal." No idea if that's accurate or not.

The factory gauges are slow to react to changes, too, but that's sometimes a good thing... Think how irritating it would be to see the gas gauge bouncing around as you drive over something like a curb....
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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I would probably just use one of the commercially available 5v regulators, but the one you show probably has input protection that would be good given the "dirty" electrical environment of vehicles. It is hard to believe how much of a voltage spike the starter solenoid creates, much less the starter itself.

Anyway, my hope is that with stable voltage the gauges will be stable as well. In fact, I see no reason why not.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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Chris, I was actually in my truck measuring that exact area last night. I was also looking at the area above the stereo where the clock would be. I have the xls bezel, and it is pre cut for the clock and whatever else, but I don't have them. I was thinking of using the 1 1/2" gauges, but thought they may be a little small. Plus I have heard the liquid filled gauges are great, but only come in 2 5/8" gauges. At least that is the case with autometer(which I have also been told are good, yet pricey). I do like that they are made in the states
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jthorngate3
Chris, I was actually in my truck measuring that exact area last night. I was also looking at the area above the stereo where the clock would be. I have the xls bezel, and it is pre cut for the clock and whatever else, but I don't have them. I was thinking of using the 1 1/2" gauges, but thought they may be a little small. Plus I have heard the liquid filled gauges are great, but only come in 2 5/8" gauges. At least that is the case with autometer(which I have also been told are good, yet pricey). I do like that they are made in the states
JT,

IMHO it's not that AutoMeter and other quality-made precision instruments (measuring devices) are so expensive, it's more that the Chinese-made POS knock-offs are so cheap. Again, IMO.

But I was in the process of spending over $3k rebuilding my engine and I wanted to be confident in knowing what its operational characteristics were when I started it up, I wasn't gonna skimp out here and rely on devices made by the T.A. WAN company.

I got my A-M stuff from a local speed shop that caters to the local drag strip crowd. Sure, things were more expensive than what could be gotten at the local big-box stores, but the guys at the speed shop are credible & helpful and know what they're talking about and have lots of A-M styles & variations available to them generally within 24 hours. The big-box stores are generally staffed by foreigners and/or snot-nosed teenagers who may or may not know English well enough to communicate in an adequate fashion much less knowledgeably answer questions.

Most of my gauge installation stuff is documented beginning HERE, be sure to look on the next page for additional posts by me on the topic.

Lemme know if you have any other questions after reading that stuff, OK?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:45 AM
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Will do. Thanks for the input. I'm definitely with you on the matter
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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I like these'
Gauges at SummitRacing.com: speedometers, tachometers, and more-
That link didn't work right I thought it would go to the antique biege gauges.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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here they are

 
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