k&n filter?
My old 85 Vette &90 had a MAF sensor so I wouldn't even think of a oil impregnated air filter,Just my 1/2 cent input.
Component disassembly to reach the mass airflow sensor (MAF).
Mass airflow (MAF) sensor problems on these engines typically cause lean fuel conditions and possibly hard starting or even no starts. If the sensor element becomes contaminated with dirt, fuel varnish or oil (from oiled aftermarket low restriction air filters), the sensor won’t read accurately. MAF sensors can often be cleaned with aerosol electronics cleaner.
Either way in work, one of my co workers swear by K&N filters. He said it has been the only thing that gets the best mileage and he has seen any where between 2-5 MPG on any vehicle he used the filters on. I said they might work but I would not trust them as they could cause problems for the engine down the road. The same co worker was even trying to get management to get on board with the filter saying it would save the company money in fuel costs.
I called K&N and advised them (very nicely) of the issue....back then the K&N filter was around $60 iirr......they stated if you are not happy with the filter and have the original box we will take it back and refund the $. Even with full documentation, K&N never (including multiple visits with their staff at their offices and at conference meetings) would ever take any action and just kept insisting there must be another cause for this with the car...there wasn't. K&N has made repeated references throughout the years on multiple chat sites that this situation has never occurred, yet the oasis documentation is very well established.
If you gonna just it i suggest using a dry filter and getting your oil tested.
I keep a paper filter to swap in and will actually wait a couple of days after I clean and re-oil. Letting it soak in and dry is the key.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Myself, and many others, have used K&N oiled filters for decades. Mostly with success. Occasionally, somebody adds too much oil to the filter.
Whether you get performance or mileage gains is debatable. Obviously, when you change a part from OEM specs, not everything stays the same. But is it enough of a difference? Sometimes, that depends on the car. Unbelievable, but true, that there are instances of mileage improvement. As for performance, it's nothing that you will actually feel, or win a race with.
With the numbers on an engine dyno, there may be a minute change. Run an engine, just the engine, on an engine dyno, and measure the power output. The change will be so small, that it will not translate to that engine mounted in a car, and actually adding more power to the wheels on the road. But, it's there. And if you are bolting on accessories, an intake or oiled filter is something that goes right along with all of the other bolt on accessories. Don't forget the stickers that came in the box. Stickers not only add HP & torque, they intimidate the competition, and draw the attention of the police.
If you drive through a water puddle in a heavy down pour and water gets sucked into your air intake, a foam filter will allow that huge gulp of water Right through where a paper element filter will sift that water gulp more.
So if you don’t want your engine hydro lock grenade ruined more easily, stay away from foam filters!
Plus come on, it’s like returning to the Stone Age, a filter you spend hours carefully washing and drying and oiling just the right amount... we pay extra money for all that hassle for what!?
The regular filters are fairly reusable cleanable, just get our your vacuum and crevice tool.
Take care
If you drive through a water puddle in a heavy down pour and water gets sucked into your air intake, a foam filter will allow that huge gulp of water Right through where a paper element filter will sift that water gulp more.
So if you don’t want your engine hydro lock grenade ruined more easily, stay away from foam filters!
Plus come on, it’s like returning to the Stone Age, a filter you spend hours carefully washing and drying and oiling just the right amount... we pay extra money for all that hassle for what!?
The regular filters are fairly reusable cleanable, just get our your vacuum and crevice tool.
Take care
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...r-testing.html.
“After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt.”
A Ford MasterTech made this video which talks directly about the aftermarket CAI’s.....QA of engineering and design is a big issue:
Let's talk about their warranty...… and my own personal OASIS documented experience with K&N....
I installed an oem replacement unit on our new 1997 Cougar Sport (1 week old, factory special order), the filter was purchased directly from K&N. For those who may not know, the Cougar Sport is essentially a mustang GT with 4-wheel independent suspension except it is built on the MN12 chassis (LSC Coupe) which gives extra stiffness. Within 90 days, multiple intake location specific sensors (paraphrasing here) went bad...throwing codes. After Ford verified and replaced under warranty twice the sensors during this period, when they analyized the parts, they determined oil residue from the K&N caused the component failure. Ford recommended the filter (K&N) be removed...and there has been no other failures to date (2020) on these components (23 years later).
I called K&N and advised them (very nicely) of the issue....back then the K&N filter was around $60 iirr......they stated if you are not happy with the filter and have the original box we will take it back and refund the $. Even with full documentation, K&N never (including multiple visits with their staff at their offices and at conference meetings) would ever take any action and just kept insisting there must be another cause for this with the car...there wasn't. K&N has made repeated references throughout the years on multiple chat sites that this situation has never occurred, yet the oasis documentation is very well established.
If I may quote Arlen Spicer, a well known engineer who conducted a very broad SAE standards test on aftermarket filters.....
“Now that I am not doing the tests and my objectivity is not necessary, let me explain my motivation. The reason I started this crusade was that I was seeing people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature.
Others are persuaded by the claims of aftermarket manufacturers that their filters filter dirt "better than any other filter on the market." Sounds very enticing...….. Spending $1500 to test a filter sounds like a lot. But if you were a filter manufacturer and you believed your filter could filter dirt better than any other media on the market, wouldn't you want to prove it? ……….. So why don't these manufacturers do this? Hmmm?
Now I am not saying that ALL aftermarket filters are useless. A paper filter does not do well if directly wetted or muddy. It may collapse. This is why many off-road filters are foam. It is a compromise between filtering efficiency and protection from a collapsed filter. Now how many of our trucks collapse their filters from mud and water? However, if a filter is using "better airflow" as their marketing tool, remember this....Does it flow better? At very high airflow volumes, probably. BUT, Our trucks CAN'T flow that much air unless super-modified, so what is the point? The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give. And this remains true until the filter is dirty enough to trip the air filter life indicator. At that point performance will decline somewhat. Replace the filter and get on with it. "
Ok, I'm done
It can't come up more than only half way up the tire.
If you exceed this you are just asking for water to enter the air intake.
ADDitionally, even if you drive through water that is not higher than the middle fo the tire, if you drive through at any speed, you are playing russian roulette with water entering the air intake.
If more than a bit of water enters the air intake, the pistons can't compress water and so breaks in a second, the engine's connecting rods most often.
Then instantly you need a new engine.
Foam air filters are going the wrong way, it's a devolution.
Look at news footage of heavy rains and you'll see many many vehicles that tried to drive across flooded streets and the engine died..
Foam air filters gulp water even easier than paper filters.
The should be installing on our vehicles, or selling us aftermarket water barrier special cloth that sit behind our air filters.
I've had both foam Amsoil and K & N filters and got rid of them decades ago and haven't looked back. Wish I still had my hard earned money I paid for those stupid snake oil things.












