Pyrometer
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Westfield, MA
Pyrometer
I have been going through all my bits to install the turbo that has been sitting on a shelf for almost two years now and I realized that the wire harness for the pyro was damaged. It looks like it was pinched in something and is almost cut in two. Its the shorter section that is attached to the probe. Can this be repaired without altering its ability to measure correctly? What is the best way to repair if it can be?
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
I have been going through all my bits to install the turbo that has been sitting on a shelf for almost two years now and I realized that the wire harness for the pyro was damaged. It looks like it was pinched in something and is almost cut in two. Its the shorter section that is attached to the probe. Can this be repaired without altering its ability to measure correctly? What is the best way to repair if it can be?
PS: Be sure to seal it with liquid electric tape to prevent corrosion.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,282
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From: Oregon
I wouldn't recommend using a standard crimp connector (unless plastic only), as it will alter the reading because of a dissimilar metal being introduced.
All kinds of info here:
The Myth of Extending Pyrometer Lead Wires - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Here's where you get thermocouple specific connectors:
Thermocouple Connectors and Panel Systems
Mine got pinched & damaged before I even put it in the truck (moving), the damage was so close to the plug, I just cut the wire and reattached it to the plug like stock, losing less than 1/2 inch of wire. It's worked fine, and I don't push my truck (even when loaded and uphill) to get anywhere near 1000 degrees.
All kinds of info here:
The Myth of Extending Pyrometer Lead Wires - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Here's where you get thermocouple specific connectors:
Thermocouple Connectors and Panel Systems
Mine got pinched & damaged before I even put it in the truck (moving), the damage was so close to the plug, I just cut the wire and reattached it to the plug like stock, losing less than 1/2 inch of wire. It's worked fine, and I don't push my truck (even when loaded and uphill) to get anywhere near 1000 degrees.
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Senior User
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From: Westfield, MA
Thanks for the info. I think I got lucky, the steel braided shielding was cut in half but when I pulled the two halves apart the two inner wires were still intact. The coating is worn off but the wires aren't broken. An avionics tech at work is going to help me with a repair. That will save me $50 for a new harness.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,345
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From: Mi'kma'ki
had you not been lucky...........like me lol.
i received a pryo with a broken wire(no worries. i was told it was broken beforehand.) but it's not a major issue.
should you find the wires are broken,it looks like this here is the trick:
Thermocouple Terminal Blocks Type K, J, E, T, R
type K.
ebay w/ free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHOENOX-CONT...item2eaeabe767
i received a pryo with a broken wire(no worries. i was told it was broken beforehand.) but it's not a major issue.
should you find the wires are broken,it looks like this here is the trick:
Thermocouple Terminal Blocks Type K, J, E, T, R
type K.
ebay w/ free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHOENOX-CONT...item2eaeabe767
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
If the connections are close enough to be at the same temperature as a crimp connector would be, the error incurred would be nil. Each junction acts as a thermocouple. This means the the alloy to copper would create a thermocouple junction,then the copper to alloy would create another equal junction but opposite to the first. They would nullify each other as long as there was no temperature difference between them. If you're still paranoid about it, if you made sure that the alloy conductors were touching when you crimped it, you would guarantee no error introduced.
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