FICM PROBLEMS
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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So Rusty with the readings I have what would you do with the FICM send it out anyway?
Do you think I am getting the P-0305 because of the FICM or can it be dirty oil and filter messing up the injectors.
I am really stuck with this, like I said this is my son's truck and right now he is using my truck to get around and he don't remember when he last changed the oil So you know I want to get this done as soon as I can.The fuel filters have never been changed! What weight oil should he use can he use reg 5w40 can he use syn 5w40.
Do you think I am getting the P-0305 because of the FICM or can it be dirty oil and filter messing up the injectors.
I am really stuck with this, like I said this is my son's truck and right now he is using my truck to get around and he don't remember when he last changed the oil So you know I want to get this done as soon as I can.The fuel filters have never been changed! What weight oil should he use can he use reg 5w40 can he use syn 5w40.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: LA = Lower Alabama
I'm using Rotella T6 5w-40. Several of the guys are. When changing oil and fuel fiilters, use OEM filters. Definitely overdue.
It's hard to say about your FICM. Filter changes are due anyway, so if it doesn't help I would lean towards getting FICM overhauled. Several good folks out there will do it for less than a reman unit.
It's hard to say about your FICM. Filter changes are due anyway, so if it doesn't help I would lean towards getting FICM overhauled. Several good folks out there will do it for less than a reman unit.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: LA = Lower Alabama
Yes dino or synthetic as long as it meets specs. Folks like synthetic because of the temp range and better cold starts. Some folks swear by Motocraft oil, others Valvoline, others Amsoil, ad so on and so on.. There are some fun threads to watch every now and then when new owners ask what oil to use. Main thing is to change it at the proper intervals and use OEM filters. Good, clean oil is critical to this motor and it needs to be changed religiously. Also, idling for extended period of times is frowned upon.
Check this thread for more info than you ever wanted to know about oil...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...werstroke.html
Check this thread for more info than you ever wanted to know about oil...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...werstroke.html
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Thanks for the info on the oi. But getting back to the FICM, you would still get it overhauled with the volts I'm getting? Do you think that the P-0305 cyl 5 misfire is caused by the module or can it be simple as the oil change?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: LA = Lower Alabama
From what I've read (you're backing me into a corner here) the P0611 code is almost garanteed that your FICM is dead even though your volts are good. Rusty explains about the FICM having two sides. Steve mentions that the P0611 code is a dead ringer. Here's a link to another post from another forum that talks about the same exact codes you are having. If it were me, even with limited funds I would be getting the FICM overhauled by Swamps or someone similar.
http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf FICM detailed info
Cranks good, No start --code P0611 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Thread on your symptoms with more info...
EDIT - I don't think you mentioned if you checked your FICM connections. There are 3. A must before you send it anywhere. Also, check the FICM harness for chafing.
http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf FICM detailed info
Cranks good, No start --code P0611 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Thread on your symptoms with more info...
EDIT - I don't think you mentioned if you checked your FICM connections. There are 3. A must before you send it anywhere. Also, check the FICM harness for chafing.
Last edited by NewToDiesels; Sep 15, 2011 at 10:21 PM. Reason: More info
New User
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real quick, then im hittin the sack. im a diesel tech for a ford dealership . . . .
if you have a P0611 . . . . . sorry to say . . . . . your FICM is done. yes you have good voltage . . . . but your FICM is toast i would recommend a new FICM, fuel pressure regulator kit (easy to get to, four bolts on the side of the upper fuel filter housing replace the gasket, spring, and plunger and re-assemble), fuel filters and oil change
btw if you do a new FICM, your truck may not start . . . . you have to get it programmed.
if you have a P0611 . . . . . sorry to say . . . . . your FICM is done. yes you have good voltage . . . . but your FICM is toast i would recommend a new FICM, fuel pressure regulator kit (easy to get to, four bolts on the side of the upper fuel filter housing replace the gasket, spring, and plunger and re-assemble), fuel filters and oil change
btw if you do a new FICM, your truck may not start . . . . you have to get it programmed.
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F350 6.0 2005 No power to custer or start\crank
my 350 fell on its face in an intersection, then just would crank and crank. The next day replaced the blue spring kit, it started and ran fine after. After that went to a gas station, shut it off, tried to start it and then it did the same thing as before. It would just crank and crank until it made the normal dead battery sound. Mind you, the batteries are less than 6 month old optima batteries. Upon putting the batteries on a trickle they read at 100% and 95%. Changed the lower fuel pump, changed the oil and fuel filters, installed the batteries and now ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. No power to the gauge cluster, not even the hood light would light up. Cleaned the terminals and still no result. I tried to jump it and everything would light up but still no start. Could it be my Ficm, ficm relay, or something else?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 934
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From: CA
Real quick first this is a 9 year thread, it might be better to start a new one. Second do you have scanner to get some of the folloeing values:
ICP at crank
IPR at KOEO and at crank
FICM voltages
FICM sync
main voltage
Cranking rpm
I'm sure others will jump in with more data needed.
ICP at crank
IPR at KOEO and at crank
FICM voltages
FICM sync
main voltage
Cranking rpm
I'm sure others will jump in with more data needed.
New User
Joined: Jun 2020
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IDK how this forum works, im super green when it comes to looking for help on the web. Always just figured things out for myself. lol
Honestly, i have a code reader but did not hook it up because i thought if there is absolutely no power coming to the cab i regretfully assumed that the code reader would not register
Honestly, i have a code reader but did not hook it up because i thought if there is absolutely no power coming to the cab i regretfully assumed that the code reader would not register
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 3,595
my 350 fell on its face in an intersection, then just would crank and crank. The next day replaced the blue spring kit, it started and ran fine after. After that went to a gas station, shut it off, tried to start it and then it did the same thing as before. It would just crank and crank until it made the normal dead battery sound. Mind you, the batteries are less than 6 month old optima batteries. Upon putting the batteries on a trickle they read at 100% and 95%. Changed the lower fuel pump, changed the oil and fuel filters, installed the batteries and now ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. No power to the gauge cluster, not even the hood light would light up. Cleaned the terminals and still no result. I tried to jump it and everything would light up but still no start. Could it be my Ficm, ficm relay, or something else?
Doesn't that sound like bad batteries? Anyway, you need to fix that first - have your batteries load tested at a battery shop. Also make sure the cables and connections are good. Especially the ground connections.
These heavily computerized engine systems do not like low voltage.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,343
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Regarding code readers. Most of the generic auto parts store readers will not be adequate.
There are a couple phone apps that combined with a obd2 adapter will be a reasonably priced alternative
Look up the Forscan app and Amazon for the obd adapter that works with your smart device.
There are a couple phone apps that combined with a obd2 adapter will be a reasonably priced alternative
Look up the Forscan app and Amazon for the obd adapter that works with your smart device.
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Joined: Jun 2020
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So when you had jumper cables on it you got power to the dash, etc?
Doesn't that sound like bad batteries? Anyway, you need to fix that first - have your batteries load tested at a battery shop. Also make sure the cables and connections are good. Especially the ground connections.
These heavily computerized engine systems do not like low voltage.
Doesn't that sound like bad batteries? Anyway, you need to fix that first - have your batteries load tested at a battery shop. Also make sure the cables and connections are good. Especially the ground connections.
These heavily computerized engine systems do not like low voltage.