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Enine rebuild question!

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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #1  
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bulla
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From: Louisiana
Enine rebuild question!

If a motor needs to be rebuilt would you benifit from going .030 over as opposed to honing or .010 over. I realize if you may want to rebuild your motor more than once you may not want to do this but how often is the same motor rebuilt? Or should 8 sleeves be dropped in to have it at oem specs?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #2  
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Go the maximum that it takes to "clean up" the bores. If it only takes .010" to get the taper or any scoring out, then go that way.

Thick cylinder walls are happy cylinder walls.

Sleeving is the way I go with all of my stuff though.

You're not going to add any power by "punching out" your block a mere .030". You'll add six cubic inches. YEE HAW!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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Never considered the strength you may lose. Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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Dang David, after all your efforts, is your truck still possessed?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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that is what i have all was done is take out what it needs to make it straight
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #6  
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Okay guys the truck we are refiguring to I'd a buds that he got from his grand paw after a few years of abuse. The end result we found the engine was dusted and 6 cyl needed .020 over and 2 went .080 over then sleeved back down to .020.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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We are about to start re assembling it and was wondering how much sealant should be used on the oil pan, front cover, rear cover, and plenums? The machine shop gave us some black sealant but I told him to go buy the grey from ford. It was 4.-- ounces and she said it would do the whole engine so I need to know how big a bead to run and if certain areas need more or less. Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Does this look normal to any of you?
Check out this video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AL78W...e_gdata_player


Sent from my iPhone
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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time for a new one that looks like it was over tighten
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 08:51 PM
  #10  
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Looks like someone killed it trying to tighten it up, I can't remember them being that way always seemed pretty flat!
Jim & Fat Monty
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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looks like you need a new one
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bulla
We are about to start re assembling it and was wondering how much sealant should be used on the oil pan, front cover, rear cover, and plenums? The machine shop gave us some black sealant but I told him to go buy the grey from ford. It was 4.-- ounces and she said it would do the whole engine so I need to know how big a bead to run and if certain areas need more or less. Thanks!
There is no specified bead thickness for the front & rear covers or plenums on my Ford Service Manual dvd. It does, however, specify a 3mm (~1/8'') bead for the pan rails and 6mm (~1/4") for the ends. Apply the sealant to the pan before installing. Be sure to install anything, with the sealant, within 3 minutes of application. If it skins over too much, it will not adhere properly.
Name:  oil pan sealant.gif
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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Thanks Roland! We will have to wait for the pan due to the oil dipstick thingy.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #14  
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Another question, is there a proper way to make the tie in where the front cover meets the block? The sealant ran out the end where the pan would mate up at but I'm guessing I need to trim that down flush before installing the pan. Maybe even put a lil bead across that seam?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bulla
Thanks Roland! We will have to wait for the pan due to the oil dipstick thingy.
Kinda figured that. I got home late and wasn't able to post this earlier. I saw your video and knew you hadn't got that far yet.
 
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