Hey Guys, Unfortunately I'm back again. I just got my gas gauge working in the truck and cleaned the bed up, so I thought I'd take her for a ride. She drove great and then I decided I going to drive it to my barn.

While I was still on the pavement I put the truck in 4x4 high and manually locked the front hubs. Got back in and tried to make a hard reverse turn. When I did that the front tires "skipped"? that's the best way I can describe it. I stopped and went forward to see if it would happen in drive and what sounded like the front end or the transfer case started making a "ticking" or "slipping" noise. It was almost like the wheels were having trouble turning. I know that sometimes in 4x4 it makes it more difficult to turn, but this was much more serious then that. I'm sorry I'm being so technical I don't know how else to describe the issue. The front end last winter when i was plowing would make this "bang" noise every so often when turning in driveways and I figured this may become an issue.

It is important to note, there was not the same issue or any noise when I'm in 2x4.

I'm thinking I need to replace my something in my front end but I'm not sure how to diagnosis it or where to start. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I have the two piece front axle, not sure what its called. Not a solid axle though.

 

When you're in 4WD all four tires are trying to rotate at the same speed, yet when you turn the outside tires have to travel further. Traveling further at the same time at the same speed means that outside tire is going to be dragging a bit.

Pretty much the reason you're not supposed to use 4WD on dry pavement. An AWD system is set up differently so you don't run into this problem. The ticking sound was either the tires dragging a bit or something in your drivetrain binding because it was trying to turn at different speeds. (Axle windup - here's a better explanation http://www.oncourse4wd.com/4wd/4wd_axle_windup.asp)

Twin traction beam is the front axle and depending on who you ask, it's either the worse thing to be put under the front end of a pickup or one of the greatest.

 

You also need to understand the the front axle is geared slightly different than the rear. It's geared in such a way that it pulls when driving...hence another reason NOT to drive it in 4X4 on dry pavement.

 

Didn't anybody ever tell you that you should NEVER do that.. because driveline damage is a very real possibility.

 

Well now I've been told. Thanks for the info guys, forgive my stupidity. And to think I thought I needed to rip into the front end. I guess if I don't drive on dry pavement anymore with 4x4 I'll be fine.

 

What you described is normal and means that your 4x4 is working, but as already said, don't drive on dry pavement like this. I do what you did as a test to see if the 4x4 is working when I test-drive a vehicle (at very slow speeds in a parking lot, just for a moment).

It's because the vehicle doesn't have a center differential, as do full-time 4x4 and AWD vehicles.

 

Since you have manual hubs, you can lock in either the t-case or hubs separately to turn and lube all the components in the diff; but never lock both on dry pavement.

 

you need to check it out to make sure its not broke lift the truck off the ground and see if you can turn the tires and make the sound visually inspect the ujoints on the front shaft if that doesnt work you may need to have someone else drive it in the air so you can crawl around to id the noise just be careful if its in the tcase yuo will have to replace or rebuild

 

I thought I read somewhere, an axle tag or something, that my Dana 44 is 3.54:1 and I know the rear is an 8.8" with 3.55:1. That way the rears have to spin for the fronts to roll, or the fronts skid for the rears to roll (I know its slight, but makes for some binding). I've been told it helps in mud/snow.

I noticed someone said that when you turn the inside tire goes slower than the outside and thats why the inner tire skips (drags), but wouldn't that only happen if the differentials were welded or somehow completely locked? This is why we have open differentials, is it not?

The lack of a means for the front and rear axles to spin at somewhat different rates during a turn seems like the real cause of any binding (that and ever so slightly different axle ratios).

I've noticed the skipping you describe when I'm locked in on gravel and making a sharpish turn. I figured the U-joints in the front axle were just incapable of freely rotating with the wheels turned to the stops, because if you're in 4x4 on gravel, and drive in a tight circle but just loosely hold the steering wheel, it will rock back and forth in your hand. Or if the wheel is held firmly, you hear some awful noises.

Anyway, your truck may be fine so long as you stop driving in 4x on pavement. But its never a bad idea to look it all over!

EDIT: As for the "bang" issue when turning into driveways last winter while plowing, could be axle pivot bushing. Mine are shot (soon to be changed), and make a loud pop/bang noise if I flex the truck relatively hard (fourwheeling).

 

Right... Its the front axle in contradiction with the rear not per axle side to side...

 

Thanks going Boarding for the info. I agree that the skipping of the tires was because I was on dry pavement, but it has made the same noise when i was on a snowy driveway. I will check the axle pivot bushings. Where are they on the front end?

 

They're on the ends of the axle beams with a sinle bolt through them that secures them to a bracket that is bolted to the cross member that sits below the engine. They're what each axle half pivots on. Search axle pivot bushing replacement on here to hopefully find more info/a picture. I don't really know how to describe it any better.

The pop noise that mine makes is a single pop for each hard flexing event, not a continuous pop/clunk during a turn.

 

that sounds just like the noise i hear