Got it, thank you very much for the schematic. It is crystal clear now. With the motor off and the key in run, I am getting 12 volts even. I am confused now where the problem is coming from. It sounds like the ballast resistor is not dropping the voltage. Where is that thing located if I am going down the right troubleshooting road?

 

There is a length of resistance wire spliced into the factory harness, not a ceramic resistor like the old Mopars.
As I said it has a little thicker insulation and I believe mine is pink rather than red.
But that may be due to heat and age.

 

Ok, sorry it has been so long. I wanted to update everyone that has helped me and to say thank you but again for your help especially with colored schematics and such. First problem was the ballast resistor. My ballast resistor was a 61 inch long wire marked, "Do not cut or splice". It was joined together (soldered) with 2 other wires going into the ignition. They were corroded causing my resistance to measure 4+ Ohms, supposed to 1.6 ohms max. cut wires just 1 inch from original solder and re-soldered 3 wires together. Resistance now 1 ohm and runs great.

 

Oh ya, second problem was there were 4 wires melted together on a connector near my ignition causing problems. Cut the connector and just spliced them together. Everything works great now. Thank you again!!

 

Really glad you found the resistance wire and resolved your problem.

Thank you for following up and explaining your solution.

 

No problem! Thank you. Also, forgot to include that by cutting the corrosion from the resistance wire, it dropped my voltage to my coil from 12.2 volts to 10.8 volts like it should. Just thought I would add that in case someone else had issues.

 

Never like taking a thread but having same issues same truck same everything. Will post a new thread though...

 

Well maybe I should keep it here. ArdWrknTrk you seem like you know this issue. My problem is when I have the key in engine off with the voltmeter hooked to the red side of the coil and my ground to the battery terminal I am getting 6.8 volts and with the engine running all over the place from 7-12.99 Volts???? Very confused. I have tested the ohms between the 2 terminals on the coil and get 1.6 ohms. As b37mech as well as yourself stated

"No TFI, this is a DSII system.

The coil should be fine if you wired it back the same as stock. (12V in Start, +/-7V in run)"

My ICM is the blue one... Not sure what to do next. I joined ALLDIYDATA and ordered the Ford shop manuals online I really want to get this truck going. It was running fine for a good 30-45 min. Noticed has a brake leak that I need to deal with so couldn't take it out test driven then just died. It will go for a minute if I give it gas but then dies. And the volts are all over. Also the tach acts really funny. Give it gas and it goes up then shoots down. Can never get it over 2000 rpms even though I know it is going higher. Something is really acting up. The truck had been setting for close to 3 years started right up after I placed a new steering column in it since I broke the last one and it was my dads old truck but I am taking it. : ) See you talked about it in here too. If you want I can start a new thread? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-resitor.html

 

I should have clarified this more. With the key turned on but not running I am seeing 6.0 + to the red side of the terminal of the coil. Then when I start the engine it is all over 7.00-12.99 volt meter to red side of coild terminal etc... Is this normal. I also checked out the tach at the instrument panel and it tested good but something is acting erratic causing even the tach to jump around.

Anyones help is greatly appreciated...

 

Wow been a long time, make sure the ground in the dizzy is good and make sure the dizzy has clean path to ground its via its contact with engine block?

 

Yeah the coil was pretty bad so I ran a seperate ground to the chassis from just the coil. Will try unbolting the "dizzy" (I'm guessing you meant dist) again and use a wire brush. But think something else is up. Will try though as I am not giving up. Have alot of time, but my patience is running very thin. Just getting into this hobby and learning it takes many hours and patience. Books are on the way and online help is there but people like you and real world experience is key. Thanks for your help will report back. Still willing to try other ideas too. Can we post tinypic links?

 

Can we post tinypic links?

Yea but gotta have number of posts to do so IIRC, seems like the magic number is 25? Cuts down/out the board spammers.

So wouldn't be "clickable" until then however don't believe posting the url to an image would be against the rules? users copy and paste into browser to view.

 

The tach acts that way, because of the misfire

 

Edit, that sounds stupid...

 

Might also be worth a moment check that distributor for severely worn bushings, tends plays havoc with the dwell with shaft constantly shifting about as it rotates.