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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Stereo wiring question

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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 08:08 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Stangrcr1
On the battery side of the starter relay should be some smaller wires going into the main harness. They should have small tags on them saying "Fusible Link". Each link is about 12" long and then goes to regular wire. The fusible part is a smaller gage wire that acts as a fuse for redundant safety along with the fuses in the dash.

Aften yanking all the unwanted emissions crap out of mine, including all the wiring for the solenoids and variable venturi carb, I have only the one fusible link going to the main harness and it is red, I think. Another way to identify the fusilbe link is there is a larger rubber piece on the terminal end at the solenoid for that wire.
ETA I didn't realize it was a smaller gauge wire for some reason I thought what you were referencing was like a glass fuse or some such.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #17  
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A fuse tester - novel. The fusible links can be purchased, either at a parts store or Ford, or you can get it in bulk if you have several of the same current rating.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
A fuse tester - novel. The fusible links can be purchased, either at a parts store or Ford, or you can get it in bulk if you have several of the same current rating.
Can't really tell on your response if that was sarcastic or what exactly lol? I was pretty proud of myself for finding such a sweet tool in my tool box. I did locate the fusible link today. I installed a new headlight switch (oem made in usa), fixed my dash lacking lights for turns, and brakes etc. Despite all this success both my headlights are burnt out as I have power to my headlight connections tested via a test light.

Oh well overall a good week for diagnostics on the electrionics, hopefully the fuses fixed the radio issue. Couldn't do it without all the fantastic help from this site. You guys are truly awesome!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #19  
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I really wasn't being sarcastic, although I'm not above that. I just hadn't seen nor heard of a fuse tester, and I thought I knew something about testers and electronics. Maybe "novel" wasn't the right word, but it was the first thing that came to mind.

Burnt out headlights? Two of them? That may go along with the alternator problems. I've purchased 3 trucks in the last year and none of them had a single headlight out. I'm knee-deep in used headlights that no one wants. Anyway, the point is that having two out points to having had something else happen, such as a serious spike in voltage, which might happen when an alternator fails. And, it may have something to do with so many dash lights being out. In fact, it might account for fusible links being fried.

But, you are getting there and the methodical approach is commendable. Good job!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I really wasn't being sarcastic, although I'm not above that. I just hadn't seen nor heard of a fuse tester, and I thought I knew something about testers and electronics. Maybe "novel" wasn't the right word, but it was the first thing that came to mind.

Burnt out headlights? Two of them? That may go along with the alternator problems. I've purchased 3 trucks in the last year and none of them had a single headlight out. I'm knee-deep in used headlights that no one wants. Anyway, the point is that having two out points to having had something else happen, such as a serious spike in voltage, which might happen when an alternator fails. And, it may have something to do with so many dash lights being out. In fact, it might account for fusible links being fried.

But, you are getting there and the methodical approach is commendable. Good job!
Hahaha that is shocking that I knew a fuse tester and you didn't. Not really rubbing it in my kind of proud I guess. Yeah that is kind of what I was thinking as I know my alternator charges but is fubar with bad diodes it is causing all these issues. Gonna throw a new alternator on it and see where I am at.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #21  
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I would suggest a new regulator as well. When my alternator went south I bought a new one, pulled the label off of it that said "You REALLY should put on a new regulator", and installed the alternator. Didn't help a bit. Ran the short-here-and-find-out-if-the-alternator-works test and it worked find. But, that test bypasses the regulator and puts full field on the alternator, which is exactly what the regulator should do when the battery is low like mine was.

Back to the parts store, buy a new regulator, and the problem was solved. Further reading tells me that it is common for a regulator to fail when an alternator does, and it sounds like your alternator went out in a big way. So, in your case I'd BET on a bad regulator.

But, if you are bucks-down then maybe buy it but don't put it on until you try the alternator. If all is well then take it back.
 
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