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Like the title says. Taking the truck out for a test run with the new tunes,I get a shrill ringing. It happens when I accelerate hard in the hot tunes. When I let off it stops. Reminds me of a bearing going bad.
I'm getting plenty of boost-28+when I let off.
I'm thinking the turbo doesn't like it. Or maybe the torque converter?
Any one experience this?
This is the first time I have run the correct tunes after my injector instal a month ago.
Turbo bearings are probably showing wear and the compressor wheel may be contacting the housing at higher RPMs. I would be prepping for a rebuild or replacement. I also would avoid those high boost pressures on your stock turbo.
Turbo bearings are probably showing wear and the compressor wheel may be contacting the housing at higher RPMs. I would be prepping for a rebuild or replacement. I also would avoid those high boost pressures on your stock turbo.
Thanks Bob. That was my first thought when I heard it.
It's never ending. Should have left it stock and just drove it .
So I'll buy a rebuild kit for it and be back on the road.
Or I take the $800 deposit on the injectors, rebuild my stocker and sell it.
I should get 500 or 600 for it with the ats housings.
That should get me pretty close to a 38R.
Well, thats just my guess without actually hearing it. Have you removed the intake to the turbo and checked for shaft play? A little side to side is ok, but especially in your case you need to check and see if it is contacting the housing. In and out movement along the shaft is bad and signs of impending failure. With what you're describing I would suspect you have a little of both which is causing your noise. If you intend to continue running at 28psi+, I reccomend moving up to a 38r or other upgraded turbo as opposed to just rebuilding your stocker.
Yeah, once I got my divorce, all of the shrill ringing went away.
(I miss that shrill ringing though....it's not always a bad thing.)
Whats bad is when you hear BOTH at the same time.
Roll the window down and your left ear hears it. Window up and its in your right ear.
Honestly though, I'm pretty lucky and have a real understanding "better Half". She calls my truck "the beast of burden".
I just checked and it has a bit of play.
I have to take a road trip with it this weekend. Hopefully no problems on the road. When I get back I'm ordering parts for a rebuild. Then I'm selling the stock and buying a 38R.
Whats bad is when you hear BOTH at the same time.
Roll the window down and your left ear hears it. Window up and its in your right ear.
Honestly though, I'm pretty lucky and have a real understanding "better Half". She calls my truck "the beast of burden".
I just checked and it has a bit of play.
I have to take a road trip with it this weekend. Hopefully no problems on the road. When I get back I'm ordering parts for a rebuild. Then I'm selling the stock and buying a 38R.
I can say this because we are going on 41 years this January ...
I made it back with no problems.400 mi. It only screamed at me once going up the Santa Cruz grade. (the turbo-lol)
I'm torn as to whether I should pull the trigger on a 38R or rebuild mine and use it.
I think I can get the boost down a bit by getting rid of my banks big head and putting the stock actuator back on.
And maybe buy a wicked wheel? I've heard they put out a couple pounds less boost.
$1300 vs $300 is huge. Any thoughts?
My Stock turbo has the ats ported housing and 1.0 exhaust housing
Tough to get a vibe for what you are describing, but are you sure it's not surge you are hearing? Or other noises, belt, etc? Here is a video of it in case you weren't aware of what it was.
Check your connector boots on all connections after the turbo. One might be a little loose and is leaking at the high boost acting like a piece of grass held between your thumbs. I had this on a farm tractor and it took a while till I found an aluminum flange that the monkey wrench used a grinder on to remove the gasket. He ground a notch in it that the gasket couldn't seal and caused a very disturbing whistle. A little bit of silicone took care of it. This would be a lot cheaper than a new turbo.... but not as much fun!!!
Hopefully it's not the belt squealing from when the fan clutch kicks in. Mine has squealed a few times. Changed the belt and there ya go, no more squeal. Not just any squeal, this was more like a shreak.
Mine started really ticking today after a short trip. I put it to 100 tune at a stop and it was louder. Up the RPM no ticking. Whats up. I'm going to have to look for the tip Robin gave us later this week. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to see the idle pressure.
Chet
Sorry- I guess I wasn't clear that I had the problem figured out.
See post#2.
The Turbo is dying. I have had a banks big head actuator on my truck for a few years. So,I would occasionally hit some high boost numbers( 28+). Not allot-but occasionally when towing or passing.
I recently installed stage one injectors. The new tunes are giving me some good boost-and the turbo doesn't like it.
post #9 is where I'm at now.
Originally Posted by luny1
I made it back with no problems.400 mi. It only screamed at me once going up the Santa Cruz grade. (the turbo-lol)
I'm torn as to whether I should pull the trigger on a 38R or rebuild mine and use it.
I think I can get the boost down a bit by getting rid of my banks big head and putting the stock actuator back on.
And maybe buy a wicked wheel? I've heard they put out a couple pounds less boost.
$1300 vs $300 is huge. Any thoughts?
My Stock turbo has the ats ported housing and 1.0 exhaust housing