Heater problems
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
Heater problems
so my heater has been cold, even when the truck is at full operating temps, couple guys pointed me into here after getting me to check my fluid, it was low on fluid, i added the proper amount and noticed the air blowing did get warmer, but it still doesnt seem as hot as it should be
the truck is a 04 F250 6.0L FX4 Lariat
the truck is a 04 F250 6.0L FX4 Lariat
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
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The flush is a little more involved that just draining the old fluid and put in new. I think there is a detailed description of the procedure in the Tech Folder. If the truck has never had its coolant flushed it definitely needs to be done. The procedure is easy just a little time consuming.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Check heater control valve also. It's on the small coolant line near oil fill cap passenger side valve cover. Go from heat to off on the control and arm on valve should move. Also check vacuum hard plastic line for leaks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,604
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From: Claremore, OK
so my heater has been cold, even when the truck is at full operating temps, couple guys pointed me into here after getting me to check my fluid, it was low on fluid, i added the proper amount and noticed the air blowing did get warmer, but it still doesnt seem as hot as it should be
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Junior User
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
It was at the min line, truck is a crew cab and before I bought it the injectors and ficm were changed, so work has been done
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Scio, OR
I think I'd look at the simple potential problems before I went on the to difficult, expensive ones. If the coolant level was at the MIN line, that really isn't that bad and shouldn't have caused a no heat problem.
First thing I'd check are the heater hoses. Are they getting hot. As hot as the radiator hoses? If they are not, then you may have a coolant flow problem. Check the heater control valve operation. It should close and shut off coolant flow with the heater in the OFF and MAX A/C positions and be open in all the other control positions.
If the heater hoses are hot, open the glove box, push in on the sides and let it fall all the way down. Find the electronic blend door motor and make sure it turns with the temperature control ****. You may have to remove it to see it. It looks like the one in the picture #2 below.
First thing I'd check are the heater hoses. Are they getting hot. As hot as the radiator hoses? If they are not, then you may have a coolant flow problem. Check the heater control valve operation. It should close and shut off coolant flow with the heater in the OFF and MAX A/C positions and be open in all the other control positions.
If the heater hoses are hot, open the glove box, push in on the sides and let it fall all the way down. Find the electronic blend door motor and make sure it turns with the temperature control ****. You may have to remove it to see it. It looks like the one in the picture #2 below.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Claremore, OK
Ok, that helps rule out/rule in a couple of things. Assuming your still with the original degas (overflow) bottle, the MIN mark cast into the side of the bottle is the highest you should fill the coolant. If there is a Ford sticker on it, the new maximum fill line should be marked on it. If you fill it above the MIN mark, you can/could have coolant puking when you work the truck hard. Since it's a CC, look on the passenger side valve cover...near where the oil fill pipe goes in. There should be a vacuum valve in one of the heater core hoses. That valve should have a small plastic vacuum line hooked into, make sure that's plugged in on both ends.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Scio, OR
Just FYI. The vacuum heater control valve in the heater hose closes and prevents coolant from flowing when there is vacuum at the vacuum hose. When there is no vacuum at the hose, a spring opens the valve and coolant flows.
If the hose is disconnected, the spring should open the valve and coolant should flow, unless the valve is sticking closed for some reason.
If the hose is disconnected, the spring should open the valve and coolant should flow, unless the valve is sticking closed for some reason.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
ok so i am off work and at the house tinkering...
have a few pics/vids
this the check valve?
also the heater hoses were as hot as the radiator hoses
this is the only setting that the air gets hot in, it takes it about 2-3 mins running on that setting (truck is already at operating temp) but does get hot....
also is this the actuater yall are talking about if so it moves in all postions
have a few pics/vids
this the check valve?
also the heater hoses were as hot as the radiator hoses
this is the only setting that the air gets hot in, it takes it about 2-3 mins running on that setting (truck is already at operating temp) but does get hot....
also is this the actuater yall are talking about if so it moves in all postions
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
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From: Scio, OR
That is the valve. If the heater hoses are hot then the valve is working and coolant is flowing.
That is not the actuator, though. That appears to be the panel/defrost vacuum motor.
The actuator you are looking for is electrical. It should have a connector that looks like the one below with 5 wires to it. The motor should move a door and should move in time with the air temperature dial.
That is not the actuator, though. That appears to be the panel/defrost vacuum motor.
The actuator you are looking for is electrical. It should have a connector that looks like the one below with 5 wires to it. The motor should move a door and should move in time with the air temperature dial.
